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Condition inspection question-fuel selector area

RNB

Well Known Member
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How much do I need to worry about inspecting under the cover near the fuel selector? I recall a video where someone talks about something important to see there. I can't easily disassemble things further with my current level of knowledge. I do not see a SB pertaining to anything fuel sector related but do not want to miss anything.
 

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You’re checking fuel lines, brake lines, rudder cables, the fuel selector valve connections, SCAT tubing, firewall pass throughs/bulkhead connections, and usually the fuel boost pump which could also include replacing a filter.
 
You can’t do a proper CI, assuming that’s what you’re doing, without opening everything up, checking for blue stains of a fuel leak, putting a wrench on all fittings, and servicing any filters that require inspection.
There are some excellent resource out there to help, Vic Syracuse book, and a multitude of checklists for the RV10.
Do you have a repairmen’s certificate?
 
You’re checking fuel lines, brake lines, rudder cables, the fuel selector valve connections, SCAT tubing, firewall pass throughs/bulkhead connections, and usually the fuel boost pump which could also include replacing a filter.
How is it known if the filter needs replaced?
 
Undo the screw that holds the fuel selector on and the whole lid should /will come off.
You definitely want to see in there.

Bryan
 
You can’t do a proper CI, assuming that’s what you’re doing, without opening everything up, checking for blue stains of a fuel leak, putting a wrench on all fittings, and servicing any filters that require inspection.
There are some excellent resource out there to help, Vic Syracuse book, and a multitude of checklists for the RV10.
Do you have a repairmen’s certificate?

Not quite. I am about to take the LSRM class but expect I will still need an AP to sign unless the Op Lims stuff gets straightened out first
 
Undo the screw that holds the fuel selector on and the whole lid should /will come off.
You definitely want to see in there.

Bryan

I did do this and it did not want to easily come off. Will try harder this weekend.
 
How is it known if the filter needs replaced?
Injected?
Most filters are checked and cleaned if necessary, not replaced. It can be a messy job if not purged prior.
The nature of your questions leads me to think you need some assistance from an experienced person. There are a lot of things that could bite you bad if not attended too or done incorrectly.
 
Injected?
Most filters are checked and cleaned if necessary, not replaced. It can be a messy job if not purged prior.
The nature of your questions leads me to think you need some assistance from an experienced person. There are a lot of things that could bite you bad if not attended too or done incorrectly.

I dont understand "injected?" My engine is an IO if that is what you are asking.

The nature of most questions is as such.

Dude, I have been trying for help for months...https://vansairforce.net/threads/eastern-nc-rv10-condition-inspection-help-wanted-february-2026.239483/
 
I dont understand "injected?" My engine is an IO if that is what you are asking.

The nature of most questions is as such.

Dude, I have been trying for help for months...https://vansairforce.net/threads/eastern-nc-rv10-condition-inspection-help-wanted-february-2026.239483/
Darn -
Bump up your original post. You may need to hire an AP that isn’t familiar with the 10. However, if they are competent, thy can work through it.
You can’t sign it off anyway until you get your certificate and the FAA starts allowing changes to OP limits assuming your OP’s limits requirements.
“injected” is what kind of induction you have. You have an “IO” engine. There will be a filter, maybe more than one, that has to be inspected at each CI. It’s not hard but it is a process and critical to keeping your butt in the air.
I feel for you, but you’re going to need some help regardless. Keep trying to find someone, or, you may have to fly somebody in. Vic Syracuse is on the east coast would be a good contact. Others I am sure would be willing. Hopefully someone sees this post and your prior one and chimes in.
 
Yes, you need to see under there. First, there is likely a filter under there to clean and you need to get eyes in there looking for fuel leaks and chafing wear on the fuel & brake lines.
 
I did a mod on the tunnel cover at the valve. I cut the tunnel cover approximately 3 inches forward and aft of the valve. Added some flat stock with counter sunk nut plates on the remaining forward and aft part with the valve to provide support and screws for the covers. Added couple more for the cover lip to screw into the side of the tunnel. I can remove the covers forward and aft of the valve, leaving the valve assembly in tact for access and inspection. Easy modification.
 
Darn -
Bump up your original post. You may need to hire an AP that isn’t familiar with the 10. However, if they are competent, thy can work through it.
You can’t sign it off anyway until you get your certificate and the FAA starts allowing changes to OP limits assuming your OP’s limits requirements.
“injected” is what kind of induction you have. You have an “IO” engine. There will be a filter, maybe more than one, that has to be inspected at each CI. It’s not hard but it is a process and critical to keeping your butt in the air.
I feel for you, but you’re going to need some help regardless. Keep trying to find someone, or, you may have to fly somebody in. Vic Syracuse is on the east coast would be a good contact. Others I am sure would be willing. Hopefully someone sees this post and your prior one and chimes in.
I have found someone that is an AP and an RV builder, just not a 10. I am trying to utilize time efficiently by opening everything up first, not paying someone else to do so. Vic doesn't travel this far. The last inspection was done by his son and he also does not travel for an inspection(or assist a new owner to learn hands on). I did find an AP 10 builder and former EAA tech counselor but he does not sign log books with his license. I did have one person who would travel but he has a certified. only mindset. A specific example of this is that he would not out high temp O rings on and would not use Royco 782.
 
I installed the Airward side access panel that greatly facilitates inspection in that area without having to remove that forward cover. 1+ on the suggestion to use a bore scope— I use mine to great affect in conjunction with the side access panel.
 
I installed the Airward side access panel that greatly facilitates inspection in that area without having to remove that forward cover. 1+ on the suggestion to use a bore scope— I use mine to great affect in conjunction with the side access panel.
DEFINITELY, inspect all the fuel lines in the tunnel. Look for any thing rubbing, chafeing. tightness of fittings. You wouldnt believe how many hours for troubleshooting fuel related issues were done, only because fittings werent tight, especially on the suction side. YES, on a 10 its a headache, eat lunch first, you'll spend a bunch of time getting access, alot more time doing that than actually going over everything. Then you have to put it back together -properly. BUT, it might just save your life.
 
Sounds like you need an A&P that is familiar with rv's.. they're out there but the travel time could bite your wallet. Last week I had to do an airframe only CI because an A&P would only inspect and sign for the Lycoming. Someone will help you and this is a great place to look
 
I am trying to utilize time efficiently by opening everything up first, not paying someone else to do so.
That’s a good idea and also gives you a chance to keep learning your airplane.
Another thing you can do is all of the research. Get your AW Cert., Registration, WB in hand and make sure it is all up to snuff. Check for AD’s on the Airframe and all OEM components:
Engine
Servo
Distribution Spider
Fuel Pump
Ignition (Mags/EMags, etc….)
Prop
Governor
Etc….

These take time to research. Log any pertinent AD’s even if they do not apply. They are dated and each year you can see if any have been updated. I recently had an AD on rod end bushings that didn’t include my product dates, then it was amended to include them.
 
I have found someone that is an AP and an RV builder, just not a 10. I am trying to utilize time efficiently by opening everything up first, not paying someone else to do so. Vic doesn't travel this far. The last inspection was done by his son and he also does not travel for an inspection(or assist a new owner to learn hands on). I did find an AP 10 builder and former EAA tech counselor but he does not sign log books with his license. I did have one person who would travel but he has a certified. only mindset. A specific example of this is that he would not out high temp O rings on and would not use Royco 782.
Looking for a knowledgeable A&P with RV-10 experience willing to travel to your location to teach you how to do a thorough Condition Inspection is asking an awful lot. The few A&P’s out there that meet the experience requirements are kept pretty busy - so I doubt they have much motivation to travel and lose all the productive, billable time being away from their shop. And as I’m sure you have discovered - a lot of A&P’s won’t touch an E-AB aircraft.

Probably too late for you now, but I think you needed to be a lot more flexible with your requirements.
 
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