What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Carburetor issue, black powder

Mike Buettgenbach

Active Member
The airplane ran great, started within about 1 second of hitting the switch.

Then, I began flying many cross countries, like 4 hrs/wkend for about 6-7 wkends, so a lot of constant power, constant altitude/attitude flying.
During this time, the motor became more and more difficult to start until one day in Branson, I had to crank quite a bit to get it started, . . . and it finally did.
So, after researching various forums and threads, I went for the easy answer; I regap'd the plugs to a smaller gap. No real change in start performance.
Then I went to carbs. Right carb (cylinder 1/3) looked perfect, no dirt, corrosion, just fine.
The left carb (cyl 2/4) was a different matter. Upon removing the dome cap, there was an obvious black powder in the dome (all other aspects were pretty normal). It appeared to come up thru the 2 small holes in the bottom the piston (didn't appear to be any other path for it to enter). The black powder was very fine in texture and somewhat sticky, resulting in the movement of the carb piston being difficult and "sticky".

Related item:
I have noticed a bit of an exhaust leak on one of the muffler inputs (gotta fix that) which results in a bit of black soot showing up on the lower rt side of the cowl where it meets the fwd fuselage. I only see this after these cross country flights.

Conclusion (or conjecture)
I'm leaking a bit of exhaust within the cowl (fact). The flying conditions cause the exhaust gas to be "re circulated" somewhat within the cowl, and are being injested by the left carb (more than the right carb due to bizzare airflow within the cowl). The miniscule particles within the exhaust gas are migrating thru the air fliter, into the carb, up into the air chamber and over time . . . shazam . . . I have a problem.

So, asking the experience guys; is this a practical explanation for my "black powder" in the carb air chamber?
Anybody else seen something similar?

Oh, BTW, haven't completed reassembly just yet, don't know if it fixed the start problem.

Thx much for your comments.
 
Hi Mike,

I don't think your exhaust is the problem. I would like to know two things.
Once started is it smooth at idle and let's say 3500-4000 rpm? Is the mag drop more or less equal or at least where it was before this started?

If the mag drop is still the same then yank the left carb off. Pop the top off and the bowl. Take some carb cleaner in a can with the little red plastic nozzle and blow out every single little orifice in the carb, body and its tiny holes in the throat. Use a little flat tip screwdriver and remove only the small recessed idle jet next to the main jet and flush through this. If you hold this jet up to the light you should see a tiny little hole of light down through the center. Then take the bowl and flush through the jet recessed down in the corner. Then follow all this with some high pressure air through every orifice. Don't miss any. My money says you have a piece of debris. The fine powder wouldn't cause this unless is some how got packed into the idle jet (not the main jet). Then put the carb back together and sync. My guess is your problem will be gone.

An EGT gauge or the carb sync gauges would tell you which side the problem was on and exactly where the problem is.

If you have any problems or issues give me a call.
 
engine details

A few details per your questions:
total time - 270 hrs
Carbs overhauled at about 195 hrs, nothing remarkable at that time
Gas burn is mostly premium car gas, no alcohol

And specific to Roger's question; yes, the idle does smooth out a bit about 3500.
Mag drop was always consistent between both mags.

Haven't run the engine since this clean/rebuild. Wayyyy too windy today in Wichita!

Thx guys
 
Unless I missed it I would put the carb sync gauges on and take a look. That can tell you a lot of info and it may need nothing more than a sync.
 
Unless I missed it I would put the carb sync gauges on and take a look. That can tell you a lot of info and it may need nothing more than a sync.

Hey Roger! Sounds like you have lots of experience with carb sync. I just bought a dual carb sync gauge. I started to disconnect he balance tube from the right elbow and chickened out. How in the world do you get that short hose off of that elbow, without destroying the balance tube, or something else in the process???

Tom
 
Unless I missed it I would put the carb sync gauges on and take a look. That can tell you a lot of info and it may need nothing more than a sync.

Hey Roger! Sounds like you have lots of experience with carb sync. I just bought a dual carb sync gauge. I started to disconnect the balance tube from the right elbow and chickened out. How in the world do you get that short hose off of that elbow, without destroying the balance tube, or something else in the process???

Tom
 
Hi Tom,

I may do 75+ carb syncs a year. Just for the record I prefer gauges over the electronic sync tools because you can diagnose with gauges and can't with an electronic one.

There is nothing wrong with pushing back the rubber hose on the balance tube. That's how I do it to make sure the carbs are separated. I tend to use the left side, but it wouldn't make any difference. Some with the newer engine can pinch the longer rubber tube with hose pinch pliers, but I don't personally care for that method because I'm afraid of an air leak messing with my sync. If I separate the carbs completely then I no for sure that one won't influence the other. If you pinch the hose off then you can access the air intake on top of the air intake manifold with that small bolt on top. I just a different way to skin the cat.

You won't hurt the rubber tube pushing it off. Take a big flat head screwdriver and pull the balance tube back and up as you push the rubber end off. After you do this 1-2 times it will be much easier.
 
Thanks Roger. I'll give it another try. The hose just didn't want to slide in, over the balance tube. Maybe I just need to be a little more aggressive I appreciate the confidence builder.


Tom
 
Back
Top