It's been one of those weeks, I guess. First, I couldn't figure out what was going on with the elevator horn/root rib/spar connection (that's was resolved). And now I managed to identify those bottom elevator skin-to-spar holes that would have to have blind rivets due to squeezer yoke limits, marked and match-drilled them to #30. Later, after clecoing on the counterweight assembly, I stood back from the bench to admire my work only to realize I had actually drilled the #30 holes in the TOP skin!!! ![Eek! :eek: :eek:](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
I dejectedly turned out the lights and trudged back into the house to announce the ruination of the right elevator. After showing the problem to my seamstress wife, she said, "Looks like you just need thicker thread."
So, may I use larger solid rivets in the #30 holes and, if so, what size should they be? For that matter, could I just enlarge the other #40s to #30 on that top skin/spar and use those larger solid rivets to at least give the appearance of uniformity on the top side?
Thank you for your replies and I apologize if this has been covered elsewhere, but perhaps I AM the only person to have ever done this.![Eek! :eek: :eek:](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
I dejectedly turned out the lights and trudged back into the house to announce the ruination of the right elevator. After showing the problem to my seamstress wife, she said, "Looks like you just need thicker thread."
So, may I use larger solid rivets in the #30 holes and, if so, what size should they be? For that matter, could I just enlarge the other #40s to #30 on that top skin/spar and use those larger solid rivets to at least give the appearance of uniformity on the top side?
Thank you for your replies and I apologize if this has been covered elsewhere, but perhaps I AM the only person to have ever done this.