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Canopy Frame Forward Bow Adjustment

K

keny

Member
Hello, All, I'm on page 34-03, Step 3 where it tells me to "adjust/bend" the bow so there is 7/16" between it and the instrument panel. Most of the bow is 9/16" away. It wants to move toward the panel as I pull on it and then go back to the original position-9/16" away. Two things: 1. It occurs to me that an 8th of an inch doesn't matter or 2, that I could make a hook out of a clothes hanger that would catch the underside of the bow and underside of the instr. panel. This hook would pull the bow up to 7/16". I would then fit/drill the canopy, letting the canopy hold the bow at 7/16". What is your best suggestion? Thanks, Ken
 
That extra 1/8" could make a difference. It is better to get it right to start with and avoid problems later. What if you open the canopy while bending so that the bow can be bent farther forward without hitting the instrument panel?
On page 34-05 it says: 1/8 GAP BETWEEN C-1201 FORWARD EDGE AND UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE SKIN
That 1/8" is the MINIMUM gap. Any less than that and the Plexiglass will catch on the top of the instrument panel when opening the canopy.
Joe Gores
 
A few things:
First, your hook idea would end up putting the canopy under sustained strain. Probably not much, but it's generally never a good idea for plastics. Especially expensive plastics like your canopy.
Second, I found that bending the bow was easily done with the frame pivoted to the UP position. I also had about 1/8" extra gap but it was easily fixed by pulling down on the bow when the frame was UP.
Third, here's a tip for when it's time to mark the drill line on the bow: instead of using the tape method described in the plans, tape some carbon paper around the bow. Pressing on the canopy then leaves a nice distinct contact line on the bow. (carbon paper, for those of you under 40, is a piece of paper that has been impregnated with soot. In the olden days, it was often used with contraptions called "typewriters" to make copies of a document when one did not have access to a "mimeograph machine.")
 
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To the best of my knowledge, if you decide to leave the extra gap it should not be a major problem because the fiberglass should cover it. However it is always best to try to follow plans precisely. I am not sure, but it seems to me that if you only held the bow in the correct position while drilling, when you went to attach the canopy later, wouldn't the fastners put a side force on the plexi because they are forcing the bow from the position it wants to be in to the correct position?
 
Canopy Bow

Thanks to you all for your ideas. I did raise the canopy frame today and pushed the bow into correct position. Ken, I particularly like your carbon paper marking idea but will people fall down laughing when I ask for it or give me a blank stare?? Ken
 
I avoided the risk of public embarrassment by ordering it from Amazon. Ten sheets for less than five bucks.
 
kritsher said:
In the olden days, it was often used with contraptions called "typewriters" to make copies of a document when one did not have access to a "mimeograph machine.")
Click to expand...

Does this "typewriter" thing have Wifi, an HD screen, and expandable SD memory? ;)
 
I used the cheapest / thinnest masking tape I could find (it was on my shelf) and it worked fine -- just like the plans said.
 
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