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Canopy fit what is good enough??

uk_figs

Well Known Member
Friend
Have the slider canopy cut and clecoed to the frame and the windshield fitted to roll bar, fit is good at the top and the lower sides but at the 2 and 10 oclock positions the canopy is about 1/4 inch inside the windscreen. :mad:
The canopy rolls OK and the side rails are parallel to the fuselage deck.
Looks like when I tweaked the frame I changed the shape so it does not quite match the roll bar and the threads here suggest tweaking after the frame is drilled is asking for trouble.
So the question is should I live with it as it will be hidden under the fiberglass strip and move on or should I order a new canopy frame.
 
spacers

I've seen slider canopies with shims or spacers between the rollers and the forward tubes. I'm using a 1/16" shim on the right side of my canopy frame. The book mentions using shims / washers between the rollbar / canopy frame and the plexi.
Depending on the height of your spacers, (1/4"?), you may end up tweaking the forward center area of your canopy frame "downward".

I'm in my hangar at OGD most eves and all weekends, Dave,

Steve
 
canopy frame

Dave- sounds as if you are almost there.

I would take the frame off, remove plexi, and tweak the frame as necessary to get a good fit. The holes in the plexi should still fit fine. Tweaking the frame slightly should'nt create a problem with hole alignment. The holes in the plexi will be enlarged to allow for expansion (as per plans) anyway, so it should work out o. k. As Steve said, final fit might require a shim or two to get it close to perfect.
 
Canopy fit what is good enough??

A perfect fit is the best. Anything else is a compromise. How much of a compromise depends on you and how much off perfect you are willing to live with.
I have seen windscreens off by that much and spacers put in. When the product is completed only you will know that it is not perfect and other RV builders that have done the same thing on theirs or in other places only they know about.
 
canopy fit OK now

Did not like the idea of so many shims and decided I would not be happy living with it. Took the plunge and removed the plexi and the frame and tweaked the frame some more very carefully as a new frame with shipping is over $500.
Canopy now lines up well, hole alignment is OK and the frame did not crack.
Just have to figure how to fix the rollers as I cut off the bottom of the canopy frame which now with the new shape I have to put back :mad:
One problem at a time :eek:
 
Dave,

One of the "tilting slider" kits has you cutting off the bottom of the frame tubes flush with the horizontal square tubes.
The new roller weldment they supply is much longer than stock.
Might this work for you?
 
uk_figs said:
Just have to figure how to fix the rollers as I cut off the bottom of the canopy frame which now with the new shape I have to put back :mad:
One problem at a time :eek:

if they're only off an eighth of an inch or so, and if you haven't already drilled the bolt holes, consider just raising the slider frame up a little on the rollers and drilling the bolt holes to place it there. as long as you have the edge distances for the screws it shouldn't be an issue. i believe the orndorff video on the slider canopy shows about 1/8 inch gap between the bottom of the canopy frame and the shoulder of the roller assembly.
 
Unfortunately the tube is already drilled, i will check the tilt/slider input as this sounds like it might work. Other thoughts include a) weld new tube in place, b) find tube that goes over the existing tube and rivet it to the frame then drill for the rollers (probably get new roller brackets anyway), just have to make sure the screwhead does not interfere with the canopy closing. Need to find the post about the Ford tractor paint that matches the powder coating.
Appreciate the inputs.
 
Tip-up/Slider

Found the web site and looks like the perfect solution plus it looks like a cool mod. On order :D
 
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