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Cables.. throttle, mixture, heat, etc.

JackinMichigan

Well Known Member
I am at the point where I am finishing up the FWF attachments.

My problem... I want to route the cables to finish up the engine compartment while my last project is the instruments and panel. I have an Aerosport Products panel.

Those cables give me a problem. As with all "choke" type cables they attach through the I/P in a permanent way, and to remove the panel you have to pull all the cables out from the engine compartment.

I plan on making solid brackets that solidly attach with screws (maybe AN3 size) to the I/P from behind. When the panel comes out, I disconnect the screws and the bracket (and cables) fall away allowing me to remove the panel. I plan on using the standard location of the cable outlets on the panel only opening them up so the knobs on the cables can pass thru.

Does anyone see an issue with doing this?
 
Jack,
I assume your plan is to enlarge the holes in the instrument panel so the knobs will pass through. I don't see any reason why this wouldn't work. I just question why. Once the panel is in, the only reason to remove the cable would be to replace it. Once installed, it's doubtful that you would ever need to remove the carbon fiber trim piece. If you need to access the sub panel, removing the panel inserts does the trick. I would delay the installation of the cables until the panel is permanently installed. Just my opinion.....
 
Not sure how the Aerosport panel is made, but can you install the control cables in a removable sub panel?? That mounts below the instrument panel??

I have a setup like that, 7 cables all mount to a sub panel that drops out with a couple -3 bolts. Leaves full access to the main panel.

Sorry for the fuzzy shot, but you get the idea.

SUNP0013.jpg
 
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I had to remove my panel once, so it does happen. It's a long story that I won't go into at the moment.

I have a throttle quadrant, so I didn't have to worry about them. I hadn't given much thought about the heater cables. I just drilled a hole through the insert plate and the carbon fiber and went on my build. These prevented me from completely uninstalling the panel.

I ended up having to very carefully cut the carbon fiber behind the insert plate to get the insert and the knobs through the hole in the panel. I then installed some nutplates and drilled holes in the insert plate to reinstall.

The four that are installed in the lower console panel haven't really been a problem. You can easily set the side panel above the rudder pedals with the cables installed. For those that are going to ask the next question, they are Ram Air, Purge Valve, Parking Brake, and Oil Cooler vent.

bob

p.s. Jack you really need to come down to Columbus sometime. Between the four flying RV-10s, you'll see enough mods to keep you busy for a long time. Seeing Geoff's operation is kind of neat too!
 
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Why I Have to Remove the Panel

The reason I have to remove the panel is:

I am shipping it to Aerotronics to mount all my avionics, switches, etc. I have a bunch of stuff I need to do before I ship it like connecting the air vents to the panel vents. Nut-plates.. painting (match my interior), etc.

In the meantime, I am working on the engine side of the firewall which includes the cables.

OH.. by the way, I have another one of those "I am almost to embarrassed to ask" questions. I have 3 heater style push-pull cables. I know where 2 go (front and back heat), but where does the third go????
 
The reason I have to remove the panel is:

I am shipping it to Aerotronics to mount all my avionics, switches, etc. I have a bunch of stuff I need to do before I ship it like connecting the air vents to the panel vents. Nut-plates.. painting (match my interior), etc.

In the meantime, I am working on the engine side of the firewall which includes the cables.

OH.. by the way, I have another one of those "I am almost to embarrassed to ask" questions. I have 3 heater style push-pull cables. I know where 2 go (front and back heat), but where does the third go????

By all means, drill the firewall holes while the panel is out. You'll have more room. I wouldn't final install any of the engine control cables until your panel is installed. You'll find that the length tolerance is pretty close and may even be short if you didn't order cables 3" longer like the panel installation recommended.

Matt answered your other question. I have a Rod Bower RAM air unit, so my installation is significantly different than the plans built air box.

bob
 
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