C-Frame Riveting?

[DaX]

I'm getting ready to back rivet my stiffeners to my elevator skins. I'm familiar with back riveting from the rudder. I've been thinking on how I'm going to back rivet the rivets near the TE of the elevator since they're right near the bend. How have others done this? Do you rivet with the C-Frame? If so, do you still use a hammer or put the rivet gun up on the top? Do you put the MFG head of the rivet down on the anvil or facing up to the set on the piston? The MFG head facing up would make more sense from the standpoint of having to peel the skins open less, but I can't see how this wouldn't "push" the rivet out of the hole. Do people just buck way up in there?

Help!

 

[RadioShack]

Path of Least Resistance

I contemplated this decision as well. In the end, I took the path of least Resistance and didn't risk cracking the trailing edge.

- On the first elevator I tested the the skin to see how far I could peel it back before I reached my comfort zone. Well it clearly wasn't going to be enough to get in there and back rive it.

- I tried to to get one of my small bucking bars in there and it wouldn't fit.

- I bought a steel Irwin Chisel and polished the heck out of it (looks like it was made to be a bucking bar). I bucked a rivet (took forever because there isn't enough weight in the chisel), as a result of it taking so long to shoot (and getting tired and constantly checking the rivet because it obviously doesn't take your usual count in your head) the rivet was a bit bent and I put a bit of a dimple in my skin. Wasn't happy about that, so I drilled the rivet out.

- Finally the solution. I pulled MK-319-BS pop rivets in the holes (You will not have enough in your kit if you use them in a few other areas).

At first I was a bit hesitant in doing this but then I realized I had built another all metal plane that is constructed entirely by pop-rivets (Except a few places on the spars and firewall).

Path of least resistence...Didn't think about using the C-Frame, that might be the solution.

 

[ncarmon]

Really easy!

When I was ready, I put a clamp on the opposite side of the table from where i was working. I then taped the bottom elevator skin (the one I was riveting to the table (tape in front of the stiffener, down the front of the table to the bottom). This held the elevator in place.

I then pushed the top portion of the elevator back to "open the clamshell." I then taped the top half of the elevator back to the clamp on the back of the table. This held the clam open. It was easy then to get the rivet gun into the back rivets.

NOTE: The skin will want to "pucker," not BEND, just wibble wobble when you push the stiffener down to rivet it. Do not worry, it will not bend or stress the skin if you do things deliberately and slowly. Mine came out great!

When you are ready, wash, rinse and repeat. Move the skin over to the next stiffener, retape at the front, open the clam, rivet. Works great.

 

[ditch]

Ya, do like the above, just remember to make sure the skin is down all the way on the back riveting plate so that the rivets are nice and flush with the skin. It tends to lift up when opening it up. Doing the riveting on the ailerons now. They open up a little easier than the elevators.

 

[jsharkey]

I'm getting ready to back rivet my stiffeners to my elevator skins. I'm familiar with back riveting from the rudder. I've been thinking on how I'm going to back rivet the rivets near the TE of the elevator since they're right near the bend. How have others done this? Do you rivet with the C-Frame? If so, do you still use a hammer or put the rivet gun up on the top? Do you put the MFG head of the rivet down on the anvil or facing up to the set on the piston? The MFG head facing up would make more sense from the standpoint of having to peel the skins open less, but I can't see how this wouldn't "push" the rivet out of the hole. Do people just buck way up in there?

Help!

Use a back rivet set with a spring loaded foot (Avery Tools) - This helps to keep the parts to be riveted pushed together - Place the MFG head of the rivet against the back rivet plate (anvil) - Flex the opposite skin of the control surface apart to give access for the rivet gun - Use some corrugated cardboard, or carpet, or old T-shirt or something between the rivet gun and the flexed opposite skin to avoid damaging it - A second pair of hands can help to hold it apart and keep the stiffener pushed down on the skin and anvil - rat-at-tat - done!

Have fun - you have started the journey!

Jim Sharkey

 

[Transporter]

Back Riveting Elevators

I started by back riveting the forward (wide) end of each stiffener. I worked my way toward the aft (narrow) end near the fold.

However, I left the last two aft rivets on each stiffener until last. Moved on to the next stiffener, then flipped the skin over and did the same on the other side, always leaving the last two rivets undone.

This firmed up each side of the skin so when I pulled it open wider to rivet the remaining rivets near the fold there really wasn't much tendency for the skin to pucker/buckle near the rivets. Push down hard with the Avery/Cleaveland back rivet set and drive on.

Also used the cardboard trick to avoid scratches, etc.

Regards,
Mike

 

[DaX]

Thanks for all the great tips guys!