Builder Question-Door Handles

[BlackhawkSP]

Folks:

I just drilled/prepped the plates for the cabin door handle mechanism today. If I build things exactly like the drawings say on pages 45-10, and 45-13, then the screws that hold the assembly on the door will be screwing into the back side (or locking side) of the nut plates. I think that this may be the designer's intent to keep the tail end of the nut plate from sticking out into the cabin where the user can scrape their knuckles when turning the interior handle. I can run a tap through the plate to make engaging the screw from the back side work. I was just wondering how everyone else did it. TIA for any feedback.

 

[bwestfall]

don't recall an issue

I don't recall having to do anything special maybe just run the bolt through the correct way once. I've had mine in and out several times and don't recall any issue getting the thread to start. Maybe I've just forgotten

 

[BobTurner]

This doesn't sound right. I do not recall going into any nutplates backwards. Plans are in the hangar, but that is my recollection.

Also search the threads on this subject. When you get to cutting the rack gear, make it as long as possible to get the maximum possible throw.

I would recommend the after market door mod with the extra latch in the lower middle of the door. Door latch is a definite weak point of the kit.

 

[aerhed]

Larry you're right. As said, crank a bolt through it normally once and then you should be able to start one from the other side.

 

[BlackhawkSP]

Larry you're right. As said, crank a bolt through it normally once and then you should be able to start one from the other side.

I knew it !! The funny thing is that the guy at Van's help desk had no clue what I was asking him about. He basically told me to install the nut plate on the other side of the inboard plate, which is counter to what the drawing says. I would have thought that someone before me would have brought this up before. I will build it to print and run a screw through the correct way first and then install. Thanks !!

 

[rleffler]

This doesn't sound right. I do not recall going into any nutplates backwards. Plans are in the hangar, but that is my recollection.

Also search the threads on this subject. When you get to cutting the rack gear, make it as long as possible to get the maximum possible throw.

I would recommend the after market door mod with the extra latch in the lower middle of the door. Door latch is a definite weak point of the kit.

I'll refine Bob's recommendation a little bit more. Don't cut the rack gear until you have the instructions for Sean's door latch in hand. It's an expensive cut if you get it wrong. In my mind, Sean's latch is not an optional mod. I would consider it mandatory, especially when compared to the factory recommended solution.

 

[BlackhawkSP]

I'll refine Bob's recommendation a little bit more. Don't cut the rack gear until you have the instructions for Sean's door latch in hand. It's an expensive cut if you get it wrong. In my mind, Sean's latch is not an optional mod. I would consider it mandatory, especially when compared to the factory recommended solution.

Bob:
I agree with you totally. I just today cut the rack exactly in half, just like the Planearound instructions say. I bought the 180 degree kit with the third latch. It should be standard equipment from Van's. I also have the new flush door handles on order from Aerosport. That will finish the latches for me, and then it will be off to bigger and better things.