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build sequence advice

J

Jekyll

Well Known Member
I've got my panel done and everything works without smoke or sparks. I'm setting up for the next few steps and would like some advice on sequences.

Status:
Panel done
Empanage attached
Interior systems done
Engine mounted for systems installation and wiring, will remove to rivet the firewall.

Remaining tasks:
Install top skins, front and rear (first one behind baggage compartment)
Install landing gear (7A)
Install canopy (slider)
Install prop (Hartzel)
Install cowling using camlocks
Install baffeling

I would like to keep it off the gear for as long as possible and also don't want to rivet down the front skin for as long as possible in case of any requirements behind the panel.

Questions:
What sequnce for the canopy, cowling and top skins?
Can the canopy be fitted without riveting the top front skin? Seems I can fit the windscreen while it's still summer with the front deck clecoed in place, then remove the windscreen to rivet the front deck later but,,,I'm not sure. Appears the front skin can be clecoed down to fit the camlocks and cowling with clecos. I'm ready to rivet the back top skin so that shouldn't be an issue.

Thanks,

Jekyll
 
Camloks

Hi Jekyll,
Consider whether or not you're going to use camloks on the upper cowl top rear. If so (which I recommend) be sure and rivet a zig-zag strip of .062 aluminum under the firewall lip to accomodate the camloks later. We spaced ours at 4" intervals and it sure is easy to get on and off. We also used three camloks on each underside of the lower cowl and hinge pins on the sides and vertical sides of the lower.

Regards,
Pierre
 
In my opinion the engine has to be installed and plumbed prior to the fwd top skin being riveted on. Don't put this skin on untill you absolutely have to!

Baffles have to be installed prior to engine plumbing and final cowl fitting.

Canopy can be fitted (but not permanently installed ) at any time. While plumbing and wiring keep the canopy, roll bar and top skin off, makes it a lot easier.

The rest, any sequence you want to do it in.

Larry
 
My day/vfr/Vans wiring scheme slider 9A went together like this:
- emp install
- panel
- aft top skin
- canopy
- fitted windshield
- fwd top skin
- assemble ECI engine
I'm here now:
- windshield install
- engine install
- cowl / baffle
- final assy

Steve
 
A Simple Plan

Jekyll said:
.......Seems I can fit the windscreen while it's still summer with the front deck clecoed in place, then remove the windscreen to rivet the front deck later.......Appears the front skin can be clecoed down to fit the camlocks and cowling with clecos......Jekyll
Click to expand...
Your plan work will just fine....at least it did for me. The only difference was I fashioned and temporarily clecoed an .050 strap into place on the upper cowl to accept floating nutplates.

Bottom line is to wait until the very last possible moment to permanently attach that forward upper skin. When finally ready to install it, the general area will likely be cluttered with wire bundles, plumbing, instruments, etc. so don't stress yourself or risk damaging something by trying to buck difficult to reach rivets....structural Cherry rivets will work nicely, many of which will be hidden underneath the windscreen when it is bonded into place. Even those fasteners that are exposed are so difficult to discern from solid rivets especially after painting, that only a purist or world class nitpicker with too much free time will ever notice them.
 
Critical path

After several aircraft I have came up with what works for me. Glad to see you have not riveted your firewall. You are a little premature attaching the tail feathers but you can easily work around it. And remember I am 6? and 210 lbs so I can?t get in the cockpit with out bending odds and ends.

1. Fuselage setting on short saw horses on belly. Firewall removed.
a. Permanently Attach your gear weldements
i. Witch means cutting the holes in the belly skin.
2. Fuselage upside down on tall sawhorses
a. Ream gear leg top bolt
b. Remove gear and build up the wheels and breaks
i. Set aside for later
c. coleco firewall and forward top skin and all the associated bulkheads
i. install your panel for a fit check, you are looking for radio rack interference with the bulkhead directly forward of the panel
1. Before you built up your panel you should have done this step so your air vents were located & drilled the nutplate strips built and drilled to the top skin.
2. located any blind boxes, so on and so forth
ii. Rivet forward fuselage together
d. Install trutrack AP bracket in tail cone
e. Rivet aft fuselage skin on
f. Build canopy slider track and install
g. Fit canopy rollover bar
h. Install with bolts
3. Fuselage right side up setting on short saw horses.
a. Canopy frame fit (I am working on a step by step article about the slider canopy installation we do, including the fiberglass fairings) it will be posted on WWW.blueskyaviation.net
b. After the canopy frame works flawlessly you can proceed with the dreaded cutting of the canopy and all the associated hard work making the fairings.
4. after the canopy is completely done
a. install the panel
b. finish riveting the firewall
c. put the aircraft on its wheels
d. install the engine
e. install the prop
f. fit cowlings
g. fit the baffling
h. fit the wheel pants and gear leg fairings
i. install the wings

have fun, no luck required just more time in the shop

Noel Simmons
A&P CFI
Builder of fine aircraft
www.blueskyaviation.net
 
Top Cowl

For the top forward cowl, is it possible to do the initial engine run with this cleco'd and any bugs worked out? Or is this going to possible permit fuselage damage?

I've mostly finished the cowl including oil door and cam-locs as well as my tipper canopy (needs to go back on fuselage now)

The remaining work is:

Baffles
Engine wiring
Hang prop
Spinner fitting
Remaining odds and ends in fuselage
Finish riveting top aft skins
Install aft canopy window.
Take to airport

Jim
 
Jekyll-

If you've still got the warm weather to do it, I'd get the canopy cut and drilled as soon as possible. The windscreen can be cut and left for the future, but if you can get the slider cut and drilled before things get too cold, you'll have a lot of skirt work that you can do over the fall and winter.

I'm right were you are at now with the exception that I'm almost done with the canopy but haven't done any wiring yet. Just started cutting holes in my panel though. My second choice, if I were exactly where you are at, would be to work on the cowling since I think I remember seeing that you've already hung your engine.

Definitely agree that you want to keep the fwd skin off and keep it off the landing gear as long as possible. You can however, have the wheels all assembled on the gear and ready to go.

Good luck deciding... at this stage of the project it sometimestakes me more time to decide what to do next (and figure out how to do it) than it does to actually do it!
 
Thanks for the input all. I have everything done between the fw and tail except for the 2 top skins and canopy. Gear mounts are in, just not the legs.

I'm thinking I can rivet the aft skin now (already drilled and dimpled), front has been fitted, drilled and dimpled. All the front deck frames are riveted in. All engine to airframe connections have been done (wiring, MAP etc.) except for the throttle and mixture cables. I have cut and ran the prop cable.

So, unless someone has a horror story about this sequence, I think I'll cleco the front skin on and start on the canopy frame. I can fit the windshield and then rivet the front skin befor I glass the windshield/top deck intersection.

Jekyll
 
Jim P

for the very first engine run, we always leave the cowls off. Basicaly you are checking to see if your instalatin is corect and all the fluid will stay in. Keep the intal engine run short, check mags, check for leaks, check RPM, check oil PSI, Fuel PSI, posibly power. Maybe 3 miniuts of ground tops.

Don't touch the prop after you shut down untill you can lay your hand on the jugs.


Noel Simmons
A&P CFI
buider of fine aircraft
www.blueskyaviation.net
 
Jekyll said:
Gear mounts are in, just not the legs.

[...]

All engine to airframe connections have been done (wiring, MAP etc.) except for the throttle and mixture cables.
Click to expand...
Say, does that mean that you mounted the engine without putting the airplane up on the gear? I'm in a position where I have my engine but not my avionics, so I was pondering doing a similar thing. Did you have to build some kind of sturdy stand to hold up the fuselage?

thanks,
mcb
 
Sorry Noel, a bit of confusion there. I was refering to the forward top skin, just aft of the f/w. Yes, concur that cowl is off for first engine run.

Jim
 
cherrys

If you use cherry rivets for the fwd top skin as suggested do you need a special cherry puller to set them as these are expensive. Also can you get 3/32 cherry rivets or do you have to open up all the holes?
 
Jim P said:
Sorry Noel, a bit of confusion there. I was refering to the forward top skin, just aft of the f/w. Yes, concur that cowl is off for first engine run.Jim
Click to expand...
Running the engine IS possible with the upper skin simply clecoed into place. Note: Since I routinely use a #41 drill bit to enlargen 3/32" holes which tends to produce a slightly tighter fit, the clecoes held just fine during the initial ground tests and NOT ONE flew off. Natch...YMMV.

firststart00430gn2.jpg
 
Mat:

Yes, the engine and panel were done with the fuse on a 12" tall box/platform. I'll put the legs under it before starting the cowling and baffels.

Jekyll
 
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