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Break edges of center wing skin? Page 17-02

Bill_H

Bill_H

Well Known Member
Patron
Page 17-02 does not say to break the edges of the center skin (W-1202-L and -R) which overlaps the two outer skins. Edge breaking was done on the fuselage skins so they would lay flat at the overlap. (Including one skin that the directions did not mention to break.) In searching some of the blogs, I don't find a mention of this. Has anyone done the edge breaking - particularly on the edges that run fore-and-aft?

Thanks - Bill H.
Tail finished
Installing wing skins.
 
I have not gotten that far but a friend of mine did not break the fuselage skins and I like his better than mine which I did break.
 
The plans don't call for breaking and it is not necessary. The skins/seams are completely flat without breaking. Don't do it.
 
I gave all overlapping wing skins a slight break, might not have been necessary but I didn't want to find out it was during riveting. A slight break is hard to even see but ensured it has good contact with the lower skin. Looks good to me...
 
I decided not to break them and they still laid down nice and flat. If I was to have broken them, I would not have done so at the leading edge curve where there are no rivets to flatten the break.

You do need to break the bottom-of-the-wing edge of the wing walk doublers though, which is difficult since they are pre-dimpled. I was able to break between the dimples by using the cleaveland tool and setting it tighter than usual - and just squeezing it rather than rolling it.
 
I have both the Cleaveland and Avery's edge roller tool. For the wing walk doubler I preferred the Avery tool;

45.jpg
 
Would someone be so kind to do a photo of this "breaking" option or explain it to us that are not smart enough to know what is being discussed?

Bill_H said:
I decided not to break them and they still laid down nice and flat. If I was to have broken them, I would not have done so at the leading edge curve where there are no rivets to flatten the break.

You do need to break the bottom-of-the-wing edge of the wing walk doublers though, which is difficult since they are pre-dimpled. I was able to break between the dimples by using the cleaveland tool and setting it tighter than usual - and just squeezing it rather than rolling it.
Click to expand...
 
Bill_H said:
Page 17-02 does not say to break the edges of the center skin (W-1202-L and -R) which overlaps the two outer skins. Edge breaking was done on the fuselage skins so they would lay flat at the overlap. (Including one skin that the directions did not mention to break.) In searching some of the blogs, I don't find a mention of this. Has anyone done the edge breaking - particularly on the edges that run fore-and-aft?

Thanks - Bill H.
Tail finished
Installing wing skins.
Click to expand...

Bill,
I did not break the center skin edges because, as you noted, it isn't called for in the instructions. During riveting, I watched the joint closely for any hint of "curl up", didn't see any. Finished joints are tight at can be and look great. Hope you have the same experience with it that I did.
Regards,
Dave.
RV-12 #120121
 
I am working on the tailcone, and have that "rollers on the vise grips" breaking tool. I tried to use it, but it would either roll off the edge, or roll up on the sheet! There must be some secret to making that darned thing work properly, what is it?
 
Braking the edge

Use minimal clamping pressure. The tool should be easy to roll along the edge without much effort. If it is hard to pull along, you have it too tight. It is better to make several light passes while tightening the clamping pressure a little bit for each pass. When finished, the bend along the edge should not be very noticeable.
Joe
 
Edge break

As Joe said, and don't put any downward pressure on the tool to 'help' it bend the edge. Keep it level. The break is quite small.
 
I found really good results using this tool by not "pulling it" at all. Instead, use your other hand (thumb) to roll the roller while the had holding the vise grip part of the tool keeps it in alignment with the skin against the wheel flange. May seem slow but it provides much more control. Even if you do two passes.
 
Thanks everyone. I finally figured out I was trying to put it too tight, that helped, and finally I just used my thumb to roll the flanged roller along the side, still not a great fan of it, but got it done. I think the palm roller thing would probably work lots better actually.

Bill_H said:
I found really good results using this tool by not "pulling it" at all. Instead, use your other hand (thumb) to roll the roller while the had holding the vise grip part of the tool keeps it in alignment with the skin against the wheel flange. May seem slow but it provides much more control. Even if you do two passes.
Click to expand...
 
To break or not to break?

I realize that we are instructed to break certain edges on the 12, but seriously, I just cocked an eyebrow at Mitch Locke's 12 today. Mitch chose not to break the called out skins and the fit and finish is very good. I did break my edges and they turned out fine. Still, it is the one thing I would undo if I could. Of course this is just an opinion, but I believe it is worth consideration. The skins do fit together that well!
 
I only did the break where the instructions called for it. I think it adds something nice when you do the close-up look at the aircraft. If I was building another one, I would also break the curved line of the turtle deck where it meets the rear window.
 
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