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Bought the front end kit for the DRDT-2!

Brantel

Well Known Member
After comming to the realization that I cannot dimple in the basement garage after 8pm these days. (2 year old's bedtime) I have decided that my trusty c-frame dimpler tool must go!

I just purchased the front end kit for the DRDT-2. My uncle is a professional fabricator and offered to build the frame for me with scraps from his stash.
When I built the tail 5 years ago, we were kidless and this was not a problem. Now it is a big problem when I start whacking that tool....

Hopefully this will make the wing skins go quicker.

I also noticed that the c-frame tool tends to oblong the rivet hole if you don't hit the shaft at the perfect angle. This is another reason for my decision to switch.
 
Building the frame

Pay attention to the wall thickness. I order but received the wrong gauge material.:rolleyes: I now own a great frame that dimples skins but has deflection with anything else.....
On the bright side, I get to play with my buddys TIG again!
 
I am using 1/4" wall thickness tubing because that is what we had available. The plans call for 3/16" so I am good.

Thanks for the heads up!
 
lots o' noise

Brian, If it's difficult to pound on a dimpler after eight...how are you going to
pound rivets after dinner? :eek:
 
I can batch up riveting that needs to be done with the gun and bar for the weekends and before 8pm. :eek:
 
Frame is almost done...

A little grinding and some Krylon and this baby will be ready for the front end kit when it gets here!

dscn3221og2.jpg
 
Prep frame

Brian,
I know this is too little too late but I am somewhat surpised you didn't drill and tap the front plate before welding. I drilled and tapped the plate then temp mounted the hardware while tack welding it.

(I am so bad a tapping holes that I have to use the drill press or suffer the comments from my machinest friends :p )

JD
 
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It was a matter of timing and getting this built for free. I decided to do the drilling and tapping myself. Beggars need to know the limits of the people they are mooching off of :D

I previously built custom machines for a living, to drill and tap these is like childsplay compaired to some of the bull hockey I have had to do.

Anywhoo:

A DRDT-2 for $154 is a steal! :D
 
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nice!

Is'nt it nice what a little grinding, primer and paint will do. Nice work...
where's the take up spring? :rolleyes: Well that nets out A LOT cheaper than what I paid for the factory unit (with shiping @ what?...45 pounds):eek:
blue skys
 
lorne green said:
Is'nt it nice what a little grinding, primer and paint will do. Nice work...
where's the take up spring? :rolleyes: Well that nets out A LOT cheaper than what I paid for the factory unit (with shiping @ what?...45 pounds):eek:
blue skys

The springs are on there, two of them. They are hard to see in the pic. Man I already love this thing!

For me the factory unit was going to be $380.00 delivered. With the help of my Uncle, I ended up with $154.00 and some of my time invested.
 
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Nice work Brian. I just built the same this past weekend. (and, yes, the tool box kit - so you can see I'm still early in the "deciding" stage.) I am very happy with the quality of the DRDT kit, however.

A question: Do most people run the punch on top & the die on the bottom or the other way around? It seems that the punch on the bottom would make for an easy way to locate in the pilot hole, but maybe that's not as practical on the real parts as it is on scraps...

-Karl

RZWIJ-drdt001.jpg
 
K?hler said:
A question: Do most people run the punch on top & the die on the bottom or the other way around? It seems that the punch on the bottom would make for an easy way to locate in the pilot hole, but maybe that's not as practical on the real parts as it is on scraps...
Whichever way works for you. You'll find when doing formed skins and ribs you have to have the punch on top, but flat skins could go either way.
 
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