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Bonaco

Jamie Aust

Jamie Aust

Well Known Member
Hello All,

I have Bretts fuels and brake lines, they are great ! I would like some one that has the Vent lines for a 7A to confirm the correct lengths please. I phoned Brett today, and he has the correct lengths for a 9A but the lines go through a bulkhead(9A), whereas the 7A does not. I also dont have my wings fitted so im not able to get the lenght from the fuse to the tank vent.

As im in Australia, I dont want to get the wrong ones. :(

Hope some one can help me.
 
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Jamie,

They are:
-4 Hose Assy. 45/45 53" clear for the vent line that goes
from the tank to below the rudder pedals.

Thanks and they are great hoses.
Need to order more myself.

Take care
 
Watch the Postage

G'day Jamie,

If you make lines for the gear legs, ask for stainless steel collars on the fittings, as mine have been in service less than six months and now showing signs of corrosion.

Also, watch the shipping. I'm in Sydney and the only way they would send was UPS. The postage cost about $300!

Other than that, I have been very happy with them - much better than Van's plastic tubing.

Cheers
Richard
 
Jamie,

Small world.

Brett called me tonight and said he had you on the
phone.
The 15" should work if you go through the front tank
hold down with a 90 then the strait to the other end.

Sorry for the other post.

Have a gday.
Boomer
 
Shipping down under $300??????

Have them ship USPS international flat rate boxes. Should run ~$45 for the medium size box, ~$55 large box. Since the flex lines coil easy I don't see why you couldn't use the flat rate boxes and save a lot.

Paul
 
Thanks for that Brusce, I told Brett that you had got some from him, thats why he phoned you...LOL. I dont know what the size he is going to make them, i did not have time to write it down. I will post the sizes here when I get them next week.

I got stung once from VANS sending a small box over night to Australia $200 USD + taxes/gst, I do use USPS when ever possible, about $40USD no tax or gst if under $1000USD
 
Would anyone happen to know the lengths needed for the fuel lines that run from the flop tube opening to the fuel valve? My wings are at the airport and my fuse is in my garage so I can't measure.....

Thanks!!
 
f14rio said:
Would anyone happen to know the lengths needed for the fuel lines that run from the flop tube opening to the fuel valve? My wings are at the airport and my fuse is in my garage so I can't measure.....

Thanks!!
Click to expand...

MAIN FROM VALVE TO LEFT AND RIGHT TANK RV-7A
2psc -6 Teflon? w/clear St to St * 30? OVL for Andair Fuel Valve
2psc -6 Teflon? w/clear St to St * 32? OVL for VAN?S Fuel Valve

Order then one that suits your fuel valve. ( Andair or Vans )
 
I just got my new vent lines from Brett at Bonaco. I must say they have a great product, and Brett has always been most helpful.

The size for my 7A

-4, 45deg - 45deg 53" long. SS with anti-chafe ( if anything 53" is a bit long )

Im just having some trouble getting them to fit around the rudder cable.
Bruce,( or anyone ) could you please post a picture of how you ran the lines past the rudder cable.

I have seen the pictures of the 9A, however they are not run the same as the 7A.

:confused:

*** update ***

I think it is the vent line itself. I need to get a twist in the line so that the 45 deg ends match up better and miss the rudder cable. In my case, I now have an ok alignment to miss the rudder cable , however the other end now does not line up with the port on the firewall floor. I will report back when I get it fixed. I hope to also post a picture when complete.
 
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Here's how mine run. The cable does not touch when connected to the pedals.
This is for a 7 not a 7A so not sure if it is any different for yours....

000_0286.jpg
 
Hi Larry,

Thanks for the photo. I can see from your web page in this photo that you have the 45 deg fitted onto the port near the firewall floor.
http://www.rv7x.com/images/000_0287.jpg
but you did not use the AN833-4D elbow and spacers on the fuse side skin, what fitting do you have on the line that runs out to the tank. ( I have a 45 deg fitting on each end of mine )

This picture show the connection to the AN833.



This picture shows that I need to get a twist out of the line. Its not as simple as undoing it , remove half a twist then put back on , because the 45 deg now will not line up. You can see that it has a twist toward and touches the rudder peddle.



Any ideas ? :confused:
 
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This is how I got mine to fit. I just turned this 45 deg end , out half a turn. like this.



Now its a lot better. I will put another cushion clamp in to hold it off the firewall.



I will let Brett at Bonaco know about this, so I hope no one else has a problem.
I could send them back to the USA from Australia to get them fixed, but would loose so much time and money.
 
Jamie Aust said:
Hi Larry,

Thanks for the photo. I can see from your web page in this photo that you have the 45 deg fitted onto the port near the firewall floor.
http://www.rv7x.com/images/000_0287.jpg
but you did not use the AN833-4D elbow and spacers on the fuse side skin, what fitting do you have on the line that runs out to the tank. ( I have a 45 deg fitting on each end of mine )

:
Click to expand...



Mine run straight to the tank and I used a 45 deg connection on the tank end as well.
 
Jamie Aust said:
Hi Larry,

Thanks for the photo. I can see from your web page in this photo that you have the 45 deg fitted onto the port near the firewall floor.
http://www.rv7x.com/images/000_0287.jpg
but you did not use the AN833-4D elbow and spacers on the fuse side skin, what fitting do you have on the line that runs out to the tank. ( I have a 45 deg fitting on each end of mine )

This picture show the connection to the AN833.



This picture shows that I need to get a twist out of the line. Its not as simple as undoing it , remove half a twist then put back on , because the 45 deg now will not line up. You can see that it has a twist toward and touches the rudder peddle.



Any ideas ? :confused:
Click to expand...

Jamie,

On the top pic. The 833 needs to be pointed more toward the front and
then you can get the 45 to clear the angle and it will be closer to the
rail that runs to the top. I hope that made sense.
The twist will come out but you have to play with it. Leave the nuts loose
and twist the lines till they look good and then tighten them down.
I will take a pic if I can find the camera.

Boomer
 
I would double check about running fuel thru those lines. I have his lines for my break line and was considering to get them for my fuel line, but multiple source told me that they would need to be replaced after relatively short time (2-3 years) and since it is fuel, I did not want to have any doubts about my fuel lines.
Other then that, I am very happy with his product.
 
@ Bruce, since then I have played a bit with the 833 and have moved it wfd. However I still have the problem with the fwd port 45 deg, until I turned it 180 deg. its workable now, not great . If you have a picture , that would be nice.

@Bavafa, This is the Vent line ( no fuel in here ) so all should be ok.
 
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Hose description - Vent lines -7A

qty 2 -4 hose assy. 45/45 53" ( clear ) $35 each
qty 2 -4 hose assy. STR/90 15" ( clear ) $20 each

Just to give you an idea of what my problem with the vent line I have is this.

\_______/ My hose has 45 deg then straight and ends with 45 deg.

\_______ this end needs to go down, not up.

This may have been better for me ( to remove half a turn )


I will keep playing until I get it the best I can. So far it ok, but not great.
 
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Jamie Aust said:
This is how I got mine to fit. I just turned this 45 deg end , out half a turn. like this.



Now its a lot better. I will put another cushion clamp in to hold it off the firewall.



I will let Brett at Bonaco know about this, so I hope no one else has a problem.
I could send them back to the USA from Australia to get them fixed, but would loose so much time and money.
Click to expand...

Jamie,

When you can contact me. I will correct this problem for you at no charge to you.
 
Bavafa said:
I would double check about running fuel thru those lines. I have his lines for my break line and was considering to get them for my fuel line, but multiple source told me that they would need to be replaced after relatively short time (2-3 years) and since it is fuel, I did not want to have any doubts about my fuel lines.
Other then that, I am very happy with his product.
Click to expand...

The hose we use in our brake and fuel lines is a Teflon? core stainless steel braid.
What I think you are trying to describe is what we call ?dry rot?.
If a builder buys hoses from say a local speed shop, they may well get a hose that is CPE core (this is some what like a rubber core) stainless steel line.
Now while is type of hose can be used for fuel (and is used a lot in speed boats, race cars ect.), if it is not used fairly often it is possible for hose?s core to deteriorate.
On the plus side this type of hose is fairly flexible, and the builder can put the hose ends on themselves.
As I noted above the usage in fast cars and boats not aircraft, but those users tend to change their lines for new ones one a regular basis.
Now here at Bonaco, we recommend that most lines be made with the Teflon? core. These type of lines have a higher PSI rating (as an example -6 Teflon? working PSI is 2,500 where as -6 CPE is 250 PSI), as well a higher temperature rating (again -6 Teflon? -65?F to 450? F, -6 CPE -40?F to 300?F). This type of hose should last (with proper maintenance) approx 8 to 10 yrs.
Now there are "certified" hoses that will have a rubber type core, and can (and are) used for fuel. But as well know all to well You pay $$$ for that tag.
 
Bonaco Fuel Lines

Has anybody had long term- in flight - experience with Bonaco fuel lines. Also, anyone see any difference between the non certified hoses Bonaco produces and certified hoses? Thanks, Ken
 
keny said:
Has anybody had long term- in flight - experience with Bonaco fuel lines. Also, anyone see any difference between the non certified hoses Bonaco produces and certified hoses? Thanks, Ken
Click to expand...

I don't think anyone has long-term experience with Bonaco's lines in aircraft since this is a fairly recent product introduction. However, I have used "speed shop" hoses in my RV-6 since it began flying in September 1999. The oil and fuel lines in my plane are the rubber/stainless steel braided hose and I replaced them at seven years due to recommended practice. They appeared to be in perfect condition. The fuel and oil pressure sensor hoses are the teflon type hose that Bonaco uses and they are still in service after ten years. A couple of years ago I replaced the original aluminum brake lines with teflon/stainless braided hose which I assembled and expect them to last pretty much the life of the plane.

I see no reason why the Bonaco lines should have any shorter service life than "certificated" hoses........they just cost a lot less. :)
 
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Routing Bonaco's Fuel lines with fittings

How do you route Bonaco's 3/8 fuel lines from wing flop tube to selector valve tru the various holes with the fittings on? I've tried the aluminum and am ready to put in Bonaca's fuel lines and am studying how to do it.
 
routing Bonaco's fuel lines thru brackets

Please could you guys that installed Bonaco's fuel lines show a photo of how you routed them from wing to the valve? Recall there are a couple brackets with holes in them on the front of the wing spar for the 3/8 aluminum tube, but Bonaco's lines already have the fittings on each end and are 1/2 inch. So what did you do? Did you enlarge the holes to fit the AN nut thru them? If so, what bushing did you then use in the hole to hold the fuel line. Or what other routings did you take. And did you use the rubber grommets from Van's on the fuselage side? Did you just muscle them over the AN nuts on Bonaco's fuel lines?

I just received fuel lines from Brett and am trying to figure out how to route them from wing to valve.

thanks
 
For the snap bushings, I just cut them down the side so I could spread them apart. A dremel works great for this. I can't remember if I enlarged the holes. It sounds like I would have had to. I did use the gromet. I stretches a lot.
 
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