Bent tipup canopy skin.

[John Courte]

Thanks for all your advice, folks! I riveted my canopy frame together and the gaps I was concerned about closed right up to tolerable levels, except for the air scoop on one side, which can still be mitigated somewhat by either shims or a fat rubber seal. So that's great, and all is well, except:

After riveting the skin and frame together and installing the struts, my desire to see the canopy frame open overrode my knowledge that maybe the skin scooted forward a couple hundredths, enough to once again catch the edge of the skin against the forward deck skin.

What are my options after bending a nice long section of the C-702 skin inwards, then attempting to flatten it back out? I've already accepted the fact that I'll be painting that section, but is it ok to use filler to smooth out some of the worst parts?

 

[fstringham7a]

RE:My Fix

Hi John

Welcome to my world. I finally cut out my offending bent skin and used fiberglass/filler to creat a nice smooth area. It has worked with no problems for the past 53 on the Hobbs flight hours.

Good Luck on your fix.

Frank @ 1L8 ... RV7A ... Flying

 

[John Courte]

I used a flat set and a bucking bar to hammer out the kink, blacksmith style. It sort of worked, but the metal is a little uneven... maybe cutting it out and replacing it with fiberglass is a better idea.

 

[apkp777]

Did the same thing. Used a mallet to straighten, it'll take some bondo to make it perfect.

 

[Fred.Stucklen]

Tip-Up Skin Interference fix

Hi,

The tip-up skin front edge moves forward and upward as the canopy is lifted. File the front deck skin top corner (angle the skin edge) and the canopy skin lower corner so the two don't catch when opening the canopy.
If after filing they still catch, then file the offending area so as to increase the gap between the two skins.
Don't worry about exactly matching the canopy curve with the front deck curve. You can always fill those areas to make them match.
remember to seal the drip edge to the bulkhead with Pro-Seal, and the front deck skin to the same bulkhead. Otherwise you will have water leaks in these areas on rainy days....

Thanks for all your advice, folks! I riveted my canopy frame together and the gaps I was concerned about closed right up to tolerable levels, except for the air scoop on one side, which can still be mitigated somewhat by either shims or a fat rubber seal. So that's great, and all is well, except:

After riveting the skin and frame together and installing the struts, my desire to see the canopy frame open overrode my knowledge that maybe the skin scooted forward a couple hundredths, enough to once again catch the edge of the skin against the forward deck skin.

What are my options after bending a nice long section of the C-702 skin inwards, then attempting to flatten it back out? I've already accepted the fact that I'll be painting that section, but is it ok to use filler to smooth out some of the worst parts?

 

[sglynn]

Tipup Skin Interference Fit

Could you all talk more about how to fix the skin to skin interference on the tipup canopy. I just fit my canopy frame and had about .032 gap when I drilled the 1/4 holes thru the hinges. I put the frame on without skin and it worked fine. But with both skins on the frame skin hits the forward skin. I watch it closely and it appears to move forward and up. But it looks like it moves 1/8 forward not just .032.

Here are the things I'm considering, but I'd appreciate hearing from you before I cut chips.
1) File the forward skin aft edge on top to make it lower and rounded.
2) File the frame skin forward edge to enlarge gap. Also file bottom corner to round it so it moves over fwd skin better.
*** But I don't think doing just this will work. ***
3) Drill out the frame splice plate and bow up the center part of the frame skin so frame skin sits above the forward skin at center, in closed position.
4) Moving the hinge holes down a little to raise the hinges up a bit and to raise the frame skin up, so it sits above the forward skin. But moving holes is difficult. I have not yet enlarged them for the bushings.

Your help is appreciated.

 

[ao.frog]

The fwd skin will...

.... be alittle lower after riveting it on, because the rivets hold the skin harder down than clecos do.

That will make problem smaller.

If you also round the edges and enlarge the gap alittle like Fred suggests, then the problem schould be solved.