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Bendix P-Lead Kit

Lionclaw

Lionclaw

Well Known Member
Could anyone offer any tips on assembling Bendix p-lead kits? I have some MIL-C-27500 wire and two of the kits. I'm under the impression that the core of the wire gets the washer soldered on, but I don't see any good way to connect the shield of the wire to the nut.

Should I just crimp a ring connector to the braid and attach it at the #10 screw that attaches the cap to the magneto?

Is it ok to trim the barrel insulator? It's too long, and I can't even get the nut to thread onto the capacitor.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

016.JPG
 
Lionclaw said:
Could anyone offer any tips on assembling Bendix p-lead kits? I have some MIL-C-27500 wire and two of the kits. I'm under the impression that the core of the wire gets the washer soldered on, but I don't see any good way to connect the shield of the wire to the nut.

Should I just crimp a ring connector to the braid and attach it at the #10 screw that attaches the cap to the magneto?

Is it ok to trim the barrel insulator? It's too long, and I can't even get the nut to thread onto the capacitor.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

016.JPG
Click to expand...

Hi Andy

Good to see you pressing along with the engine installation.

What you describe is exactly how I did mine. I can't comment on shortening the barrel insulator though because the parts I used were robbed from a crashed plane. The length of the insulator pushes the soldered washer up against the contact inside the mag so if you make it to short you will have a live mag. A little trial and error and you should be fine. Seems strange its supplied to long if its the right part number though. It looks about the same length as the one's I used ...There's nothing foreign pushed inside the mag is there?

Regards
Graham
 
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Hi Graham,

I tried pushing just the insulator into one of the old mag caps and one of the new ones on my overhauled mag with the same results. I can see the spring inside but nothing else. With the insulator pushed in and the spring fully compressed the insulator sticks past the threads ~0.2", and that's even without the washer/solder blob filling even more space. I think this might take some trial and error shortening it a bit each time until I get the right size.
 
BENDIX S4LN-20 p-lead part #??

Andy:

We have two BENDIX S4LN-20 & 21 mags w/o p-leads. Thus far, we have been unable to determine which Spruce p-lead kit fits these mags. We've emailed various folks including Spruce w/o success.

Do you know the part number for these mags? Once we have the kits, I'll be conducting the same work as you are so perhaps we can help one another.
 
This kit is for the D-3000, so I can't really say with any certainty on other Bendix mags. The D-3000 manual calls for kit 10-157209.

I was originally looking to just buy p-leads. I e-mailed Bogert and they responded telling me the "Bendix Round Nut" p-leads they sell on ACS would fit my mag. They might be able to point you in the right direction.

I wish I could provide more help, but my scope of knowledge on engines and accessories is very limited/narrow.
 
jtrollin said:
Has anyone tried these, they are cheaper than the kits from aircraftspruce and do not seem to require any assembly.

http://www.amazon.com/Aircraft-Tool-Supply-Magneto-Adapter/dp/B005VR35JU
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Those are used as a tool to check the timing of the installed mag. They are used after the P lead to the ignition switch on the aircraft is removed from the mag. These then screw into the mag to facilitate the connection of the mag timing "buzz" box. Not sure if you could use them for permanent connection through to the ignition switch. I would think that the insulation material they are made from may not handle the engine heat.
 
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p lead

P lead kit for 20/21 mags is 10-52305, this appears to be a Bendix/continental pn.
The picture shown above shows the nut, outer ferrule and sleeve. The kit also includes an inner ferrule and washer.
The shielding is stripped back an appropriate distance. Place the nut over the wire and then the outer ferrule with the flange or larger diameter towards the end of the wire. Spread the shielding out a bit with an awl or something similar. Slide the inner ferrule in place and capture the shielding between the two ferrules. Strip the wire just a bit on the end. Put the insulator sleeve in place, then the washer, and spread the wire end around on the washer. Then put a drop of solder on the washer/wire end to hold everything in place.
You should be able to start the assembly on the mag by hand. If not you probably have the wrong insulator. You want to move the spring inside the mag a bit, otherwise the mag will be grounded.
Spruces price for this a year ago was $64.75 per side.
 
I know this is an old thread, but I'm still on topic:
I'm converting my RV-8 to an O-360 that came out of a Brantly B2B.
It has Bendix 200 shower of sparks magnetos, and did not come with P lead connectors.
I understand (from TCM literature) that these call for 10-157209 kits to install on wire provided by me.
I'm wondering if I can use RG-400 Coax I bought for the avionics antennae? I have quite a bit left over, and it seems ideal. Or is that overkill, just use MIL-C-27500 shielded wire?
Also, does the retard breaker connection use the same 10-157209 kit, or the harder to find 10-157208. That one has me stumped, the second number comes from a catalog supplier and refers to the lead for retard points, but may include other mags, like he 3000 series...
Looking at the connector end on the top of my 200 series mags, I didn't see a clear difference.
Aircraft Specialties has the 10-157209 kit, $29.88 ea. they don't show the 10-157208.
 
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P leads

Can some one help me we’re to get these p leads 10-157209 purschased rv 7 project io -360 that was out of a piper and I have not got leads any help appreciate
Charles Mifsud
Australia
 
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