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Bending Elevator Skins

Naruto

Well Known Member
When I built the wood brake for the elevators, I used 2'X8"X8' wood. I used three hinges but when I installed them, it put a small gap between to two pieces of wood because of the round hinge. When I squeezed the right elevator skin, I had a 1/8" dowel rod inside the skin to maintain a good radius but I notice that the area where the hinges where, it made a nicer radius that looks smaller than the area of the elevator skin where the wood brake had the gaps. I took the dowel rod out and resqueezed it, it did not seem to make a difference. Should I redo the wood brake without any gaps and make the two pieces of wood mate up flush and resqueeze the elevator skin to make a tighter radius? Also, should I continue to use the 1/8' dowel rod inside the skin?

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Naruto said:
When I built the wood brake for the elevators, I used 2'X8"X8' wood. I used three hinges but when I installed them, it put a small gap between to two pieces of wood because of the round hinge. When I squeezed the right elevator skin, I had a 1/8" dowel rod inside the skin to maintain a good radius but I notice that the area where the hinges where, it made a nicer radius that looks smaller than the area of the elevator skin where the wood brake had the gaps. I took the dowel rod out and resqueezed it, it did not seem to make a difference. Should I redo the wood brake without any gaps and make the two pieces of wood mate up flush and resqueeze the elevator skin to make a tighter radius? Also, should I continue to use the 1/8' dowel rod inside the skin?

1185338458469aa76e9ade5.mid.jpg

It looks like my brake. It should work. I also used the 1/8 inch dowel. I also used duck tape to hold the lower skins outside edges in place as I closed the brake. My problem was being way to danty with the push down. The aft edge had a bow so I would put it back in brake and bend some more with alittle more force.......a little less bow.....After about six interations I finally really push down on the brake and ended up with a great radius/now bowing of the aft edge and the elevator looking pretty good. So if I were you take your time/be patient/only apply as much pressure on the brake to get the job done

Frank @ SGU RV7A Panel/Electrical
 
What happens is that the wood flexes up in between the hinges changing the angles of the dangles.

Add two more hinges in between the others and it will help. Had the same problem on my flaps and ailerons.
 
Brantel said:
Add two more hinges in between the others and it will help.
...or even four hinges. Use also screws that are long enough so it won't flex at hinghes.
 
This is what I did. Click I laid the wood on top of each other then screwed the hinges. If I had to do it all over again I would add more hinges. Seems like the area were the hinges are located gave a better/ more consistent radius.
 
Thanks for the great info guys. I went to Home Depot and bought six more $0.99 hinges. After installing them, it made my bend very nice and with tight radius.

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Naruto said:
Thanks for the great info guys. I went to Home Depot and bought six more $0.99 hinges. After installing them, it made my bend very nice and with tight radius.
Excellent! Now that looks like it should be. I think Van's bender is way too light so most end up adding more hinges that the bender wouldn't bent itself...
 
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