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Baggage floor to center section riveting

There has been at least one post a long while back that you can also research. What I did was to clamp the baggage floor with c clamps close on either side of the rivet. This keeps the floor tight up against the bulkhead. Be sure and use scraps of aluminum under the clamps or you will have nasty scratches.
 
Dgamble said:
The story is here:

http://schmetterlingaviation.blogspot.com/2010/04/gaps-in-my-knowledge.html

Basically, the problem is that I'm trying to drive the AD4-9 rivets rather than squeeze them, but I'm getting a gap between the flange of the baggage floor and the center section.

I don't know what's causing it, or what to do about it.
Click to expand...

Looks to me like you are waaaaaay over driving the rivets.
If unable to do it with the gun, why not just do it the recommended way with a hand squeezer?
 
rvbuilder2002 said:
Looks to me like you are waaaaaay over driving the rivets.
If unable to do it with the gun, why not just do it the recommended way with a hand squeezer?
Click to expand...
With the #4s, I use a Cleveland Main Squeeze. It has an unfortunate bulge that precludes use close to another skin. I might have to try it with a "regular" squeezer if I can't get a handle on driving them.
 
Cause of skin puckering

I don't know what's causing it
Click to expand...
I believe the cause is either the rivet is the wrong length or the hole is too small or the rivet is being over driven, or any combination of these. What happens is that the rivet expands in diameter and causes the thinner skin to pucker in a fashion similar to dimpling. The first thing to try is to only squeeze the rivet until the shop head just barely meets the diameter specs. If a rivet is slightly too short to start with and an attempt is made to squeeze it extra hard to achieve the correct diameter shop head, then the rivet will expand too much inside of the hole and cause the skin to pucker.
Different size yokes are available for hard to reach places, but they are expensive.
Joe
 
Mich48041 said:
I believe the cause is either the rivet is the wrong length or the hole is too small or the rivet is being over driven, or any combination of these. What happens is that the rivet expands in diameter and causes the thinner skin to pucker in a fashion similar to dimpling. The first thing to try is to only squeeze the rivet until the shop head just barely meets the diameter specs. If a rivet is slightly too short to start with and an attempt is made to squeeze it extra hard to achieve the correct diameter shop head, then the rivet will expand too much inside of the hole and cause the skin to pucker.
Different size yokes are available for hard to reach places, but they are expensive.
Joe
Click to expand...
I suspect it might be #1: rivet too long. I'll drill it out (that's not going to be fun, given the location) and start over. I have one of those little gadgets that measures the protruding end of the rivet for proper length, I guess I ought to use it.

Thanks for the advice!
 
I don't have the manual at home but when you are using the rivets as mentioned in the manual than the rivets are even a bit short.
I used the squeezer with two flat die's as mentioned in the manual and two c-clamps to keep the baggage floor to the center section. Use cardboard on the baggage floors to avoid scratching. This was not my most favorite job during the build so far.
In between the rivets the flange is not completely flush with the center section, but mine is about the same as Tony's;

564868512_teqQk-L.jpg

564868697_g5Yqn-O.jpg


Good luck!
 
I just got back from the hangar - it's true: the rivets are not too long. I was just whacking them too hard with the rivet gun.

Drilling the four of them out of there is not the most satisfying job I've done.

On the plus side, I was able to squeeze in all of the rivets on the other baggage floor just fine.
 
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