baffling baffles

[uk_figs]

I am doing the baffles on my -7 and have followed the advice on the forum to fit the rear baffles to the top cowl before determining the oil cooler placement.
I used the paper clip method to check I have the required 3/8" to 1/2" clearance between the top of the baffles and the inside of the cowl to allow for seal bend and engine rock (I had to trim a lot of material??)
Having installed the left and right rear baffles I moved to the engine mounted support bracket 707D and find that it now protrudes above the baffle line and therefore cannot use the top most support hole, has anyone else experienced this. My baffle kit is about 1 year old.
Here is the picture, you can see the level that shows the cowl alignment from the rear hinge to the spinner rear plate which is similar to the cowl (inside of cowl is thicker where the honeycomb is laid), distance between top of baffle and level is under 3/4". Everything else looks fine so I cannot figure out what I have done wrong if anything. Engine is ECI 0-360 A1A.

To maintain the required clearance I would have to cut the top flange off right through the mount hole
Appreciate any input as these baffles are driving me nuts

 

[Rick_A]

I Re-made that bracket

I was not able to use that bracket as it came from Vans. I had 2 issues: the Lightspeed ignition coils that interfered with the forward portion of the bracket (you don't have this problem) and the bracket pushed the baffles too far aft.

I cut off the aft part of the bracket (with the 2 holes) and riveted some angle to the remaining piece. If you do this you can drop it down where it need to be.

 

[uk_figs]

Thanks, that is what I decided to do in the end.

 

[flybill7]

Baffling Baffles

I have the new baffle kit and just finished putting them on a TMX-360. Had exactly the same problem with the rear bracket not coming even close to fitting. The rest of the baffle kit fit pretty well -- not sure why the one bracket is so far off.

Like Rick, I resolved the issue by modifying the bracket. First, I modified the bracket bottom so the aft baffles aren't "pushed" by the bracket. Then after I did the paper-clip thing and trimmed the top of the baffles, I had to chop off the top of the bracket so it wouldn't hit the top cowl. I riveted strips to the bracket both on the bottom and aft so I could drill new bolt holes.

Will post a picture of my modified bracket tonight.

... Bill

 

[N941WR]

Call Van's...

and ask for the old support bracket that goes on the aft side of the baffles.

Click on this picture and look at the part with "15" written on it.


That part picks up two accessory case bolts and then using one AN-3 bolt attaches to both baffles.

Here's another picture:

 

[flybill7]

Modified bracket

Here is a pic of my modified bracket:

 

[chris mitchell]

what about the number 4 cylinder baffle brace?

I think I'll have to trim the bracket a little to get even 3/8" clearance so I was pleased to see I'm not alone.

What about the brace on the number 4 cylinder baffle - its looks like I'll come VERY close to that if not actually have to cut into it. Anyone else have that problem? I set the top cowl a little low to allow for engine sag but I didn't think I'd set it so low as to be out of the ordinary. Anyone meet that problem?

Also how critical is the 3/8" to 1/2" dimension? Even when really warm and floppy I can't imagine that the baffle seal material will flip through a gap that was even 3/4" but I wondered if anyone had had such an experience?

Finally, does anyone know the section/part number of the W section aluminum angle used to make the filter mount on a horizontal induction snorkel?

Thanks

Chris

RV8 - firewall forward

Chris( meaning I've done what I've been told