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Back-up Alternator -- Issues?

RONSIM

RONSIM

Well Known Member
I am thinking about installing the B&C 20A back-up alternator on my all electric O360A1A (with added FI) --- I have the standard oil filter arrangement and Bendix mags. My questions for those who have done this setup 1: do clearance issues present a problem for routine maintenance and oil changes, and 2: any issue with wiring to the main buss and set the voltage regulator to activate the alternator at 13V.

I have seen the discussions on backup batteries, but I like the extra alternator idea better, as a long-term solution.

EDIT: Additional Questions -- I have the B&C BC410-H Standby alternator and SB1B-14 controller on order. Question #1: I have a Dynon EMS120 that gives me my primary alternator output reading --- since both alternators will not be "on" at the same time, can I parallel a GRT Hall Effect sensor (I use one on my primary, now) to the same pins on the Dynon for the standby alternator output? Question #2: Or, could I run the B lead from the standby alternator through the same Hall Effect sensor I am using for my primary (remember, both Alts will not be on at the same time)?

Thanks for the help,

Ron
 
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RONSIM said:
I am thinking about installing the B&C 20A back-up alternator on my all electric O360A1A (with added FI) --- I have the standard oil filter arrangement and Bendix mags. My questions for those who have done this setup 1: do clearance issues present a problem for routine maintenance and oil changes, and 2: any issue with wiring to the main buss and set the voltage regulator to activate the alternator at 13V.

I have seen the discussions on backup batteries, but I like the extra alternator idea better, as a long-term solution.

Thanks for the help,

Ron
Click to expand...

I have the B&C 20A standby alternator on the vacuum pad of my O-340 with Slick mags and straight-back oil filter adapter. While it's not the exact same setup you're asking about, I've had no problems with fit or with wiring just the way you mentioned.
 
I have an IO/540. It fits, but it's pretty tight. One of the bolts, I have to cut down a ratcheting wrench down to about an inch in length to get one of the nuts tightened. The engine was on the bench at the time, I would have to have to remove it now.

Getting an extender for the oil filter is something I now wish I installed and may this coming year. Changing the oil is a real PITA with the alternator installed. B&C makes some great brackets and filter extensions to solve this problem.

Both of my alternators are on the main bus, but are controlled via a DP switch to ensure that only one is on at a time. I have a VPX, so the voltage regulator control is wired to the VPX.
 
I've had the B&C standby alternator (and voltage regulator) installed on my RV-7A (O-360) since 2006 when the airplane was built and have had no problems with the equipment, except having to replace the mounting gasket only once to eliminate a little oil seepage... I can tell you that from the beginning the plan was to have a B&C main alternator along with the B&C standby alternator because the 7A was set up for IFR, and we therefore installed an Airwolf remote oil filter kit on the firewall (pilot's side) so that getting to and changing the filter would not be a PITA or a big mess. I have been very happy with the Airwolf installation, and if possible I would recommend installing one if you decide to add the B&C 20A standby alternator.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Victor
 
I also have the B&C 20 Amp back up alternator on the IO-540 on my RV-10. I tried two or three different extenders but could not find one that gave me adequate clearance with the alternator. So, I installed the Air Wolf remote oil filter on the RH side of the firewall. I am extremely happy with the ease of oil and filter changes with this set up. I am also very happy with the B&C alternator as my back up. I had the main alternator fail two or three years ago while on a trip, and the B&C did a great job.
 
rleffler said:
I have an IO/540. It fits, but it's pretty tight. One of the bolts, I have to cut down a ratcheting wrench down to about an inch in length to get one of the nuts tightened. The engine was on the bench at the time, I would have to have to remove it now.

Getting an extender for the oil filter is something I now wish I installed and may this coming year. Changing the oil is a real PITA with the alternator installed. B&C makes some great brackets and filter extensions to solve this problem.
Click to expand...

I have an IO-540 with Bendix mags and a B&C 20A alternator. I use the B&C oil filter adapter with a 1 3/8 spacer. Filter is clocked at 10:00 looking from the rear. Bob is correct about the one bolt access, but changing oil & filter is a non-issue.

My oil change routine is to start draining oil from the sump; punch a small hole in the upper end of the filter, so that oil will drain also; go home. When I come back the next day I wrap a disposable baby diaper around the base of the oil filter. When I unscrew the filter, there is very little oil remaining in the can. By pressing the diaper against the filter, I can remove the filter without spilling a drop. I've been told those diapers can adsorb all kinds of c**p.
 
B&C Thumbs up

Ron,

I have about 800 hours on mine with a B&C 60 amp main alternator and the 20 amp backup on the vacuum pad on a Superior IO-360. No clearance issues. B&C does sell a backup voltage regulator that you can set to 13V and gives different status indications on the warning lamp than the standard regulator.

The main regulator flashes the warning lamp when voltage drops below a certain level.

The backup regulator warning lamp comes on when the backup alternator is actually being used to charge the system.


Andy
 
Thanks much for the help

I appreciate the comments ---- I have a person here at KCLW that has the setup in a -6, but I cannot catch him with the cowl off --- but based on your comments, I am sure I am going that direction.

Stay warm!

Ron
 
Anyone? -- Dynon?

Still looking for some input ---- no luck on the Dynon forum.

Thanks,

R.
 
RONSIM said:
EDIT: Additional Questions -- I have the B&C BC410-H Standby alternator and SB1B-14 controller on order. Question #1: I have a Dynon EMS120 that gives me my primary alternator output reading --- since both alternators will not be "on" at the same time, can I parallel a GRT Hall Effect sensor (I use one on my primary, now) to the same pins on the Dynon for the standby alternator output? Question #2: Or, could I run the B lead from the standby alternator through the same Hall Effect sensor I am using for my primary (remember, both Alts will not be on at the same time)?
Ron
Click to expand...

As to question 1, the answer is no. Hall Effect sensors output a voltage proportional to their input voltage. Even at a reading of zero current, there is an output voltage (usually half of the supply voltage). If you have two sensors on one wire to the EMS, both with a different output voltage, what would the EMS120 sense? Something, perhaps, but it would likely not be correct. Additionally it may damage one or both hall effect sensors.

As to question 2, you could run the standby alternator b-lead through the same hall effect donut. It likely does not matter if one or both are producing current either. I believe the hall effect sensor will sense total current through all conductors (as long as all current though all conductors flows the same direction through the donut). Why not try it out on the bench and see what the results are?
 
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Hall Effect Sensor

#2 If you run both b leads through the hall effect sensor you will get the total current supplied by both alternators. Make sure the wires are run through the sensor in the same orientation.

Larry
 
Thanks much!

I will do the B leads through the same sensor ---- only one alternator will be "on" at a time --- should work!

Thanks again!!

R.
 
B&C Stby Alternator

Ron

I have installed an SD-20 STD-BY Alt on the vacuum pad of my RV-4 O-320 and with the 90 degree oil filter adapter and the recommended 2.5 spacer, the Alt wouldn't fit.

So B&C made me a special 1.6'' oil filter spacer and a 1'' spacer for the Alternator.They also provide a longer shear coupling (Twice as long as the standard one ) so that it would fit.

It is a very tight fit but it works.

B&C told me that I was the first RV-4 owner to install the SD-20 Std-By Alt as most go for the smaller SD-8.

I have pictures I could send you if you PM me your e-mail address if you wanna see how it looks.

Good luck

Bruno
[email protected]
 
Just an update

Installed the B&C 20Amp standby alternator on the vacuum pump pad -- install, using B&C install manual, took me 3 days (part-time, I'm retired).

I thought I had a problem, thinking the unit was not coming on line. After going through the diagnostics several times, and talking to B&C (Greg - very helpful), I discovered my Dynon EMS 120 was reading about 0.7 (buss volts) low.

Anyway, after attaching a couple of reliable voltmeters to the buss, I found the unit was doing exactly as advertised ----- 13 steady volts, which can be adjusted up, if I so choose.

Happy camper!

Ron
 
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