Axle Nuts

[paul330]

I've tried a search and can't find an answer.

I am at the "finishing the silly little jobs" stage. One of which is to secure the axle nuts with the cotter pin. I drilled the axles as per the plans eons ago. I assume the bearings must have settled since the holes now no longer exactly line up - first problem...... I assume that you tighten as much as possible till the wheel starts to drag and then back off to the next hole - I further assume the bearings can take the minor slack since you have to allow for wear and settling etc during use.

Second problem - how on earth do you get the cotter pins in? First thing is that the 1/8" hole in the axle seems a little small and needs "easing". Trouble is, I now have the wheel in place and can't get even the smallest angle bit to it. To take the whole wheel off involves disassembling the brakes etc. Looking at it, it seems I can disassemble the wheel in situ, drill out the axle holes and then re-assemble. would this work? Having done that, it still seems that once you have bent the cotter pin to clear the wheel rim, you are never going to get it straight again to line up with the far hole.

Any other help/useful comments appreciated before I kill something!

 

[rleffler]

Those cotter pins a a real pain. It always takes me awhile to get them installed. Don't attempt to straighten them after use. Just pitch them and use a new one. I now keep a supply on hand of all the cotter pins just for that purpose.

The only one that I've had to tighten from its original position is the nut on the top of the nose wheel.

 

[Jesse]

The cotter pins are a little bit of a pain. I bent the last 3/8" or so to let me clear the wheel half. That usually lets the points just reach the other hole so I can straighten the end and finish pushing it through.

I have also not seen the need to further tighten the axle nuts beyond the initial installation.

If you need to redrill the hole or enlarge it, just pull the 2 bolts holding the brake linings to the rotor and the wheel will slide off.

 

[RKellogg]

To take the whole wheel off involves disassembling the brakes etc. Looking at it, it seems I can disassemble the wheel in situ, drill out the axle holes and then re-assemble. would this work? !

Paul, I think you will be farther ahead to take two bolts out of the brake caliper and slide the wheel off, rather than to disassemble the wheel. Reassembling the brake caliper is straight forward. Two hands, but first time every time. Reassembling the wheel involves grease and pinched inner tubes.

- Roger

 

[Dean Pichon]

After fighting with cotter pins for several years, I bought a new set of nuts and milled slots in lieu of holes. This allows me more freedom to adjust the nut based on the desired bearing preload rather than just lining up the holes. Also, to reiterate the suggestion from a previous post, don't bother to salvage cotter pins...

Good luck,

 

[David Paule]

Standard practice is to replace cotter pins after one use. Never reuse them.

And yeah, I know people do it - doesn't make it right.

Dave

 

[paul330]

Thanks guys - seems I just have to stick with it.

- I never have any intention of re-using cotter pins

- I'll have another look at the brake assembly - seems there is an easier way.... Then I'll open out the holes in the axle slightly.

- How about the bearing pre-load? I'm certain I adjusted it correctly initially as per the plans but now it ends up between holes. I guess backing off what is only about 1/12th of a turn will be taken up in the bearings.

 

[alpinelakespilot2000]

I have found that grinding a tapered point on a new cotter pin helps to get it pointed through all four holes in both the nut and axle. Also, try to use the shortest cotter pins you can (or cut larger ones to make them smaller). Doing so allows you to better insert them straight down through the nut and axle.

 

[BobTurner]

I've found the slight bend Jesse mentioned to be absolutely necessary. (to be clear, the bend is near the back end, not the pointy end). Grinding the pointy end helps, too.

 

[paul330]

Finally got the job done yesterday:

- removed wire locking and undid 2 bolts holding on brake pad

- removed wheel

- drilled out holes in wheel nut and axle to 9/64"

- ground end of cotter pin

- re-fitted wheel and axle nut

- put curve in cotter pin and straightened out as it was inserted

- bit of jiggling to get through the far hole

- re-fit brake pad and wire locking

x2 - total time about 1.5 hour........ finally!!

Thanks everyone for the tips. Moving on to the next SLJ......