What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Autopilot install

Tony_T

Well Known Member
Patron
Have completed the Autopilot hardware install. Total time for me on this was 19 hours.
If you have a flying plane and have to take out the tank, instrument panel and inspection covers it you may take more than that, my plane is in the Avionics kit phase and the tank was not yet installed.
Here are some pics of the major parts:
722250187_PNpkt-S.jpg

The Pitch Servo.

722250485_3Tc5R-S.jpg

The Roll Servo.

722250552_2Y2yB-S.jpg

The AP74 Control unit in the left panel.

The main issues: You need a right angle drill if the autopilot is put in after completing Section 21, and you are going to spend some time cramped up in the baggage compartment. Ok, I guess, if you are a small and agile person :rolleyes:. Those who are not to Section 21 yet would be wise to order the brackets at least and put them in even if unsure about installing the autopilot.
The forward Roll Servo bolts are a little difficult to line up in the bracket bolt holes because of the angle of the parts. Follow the plans closely, noting and marking right & left components and it works. All told, everything goes together very nicely.
Tony
PS There are a lot more pictures of the install in my picture galleries (Autopilot Option).
 
Last edited:
thanks Toni. I'm one of those "afterwards" guys but thats okay...its still neat just to have to buy the servos for a two axis autopilot.
 
Dimensions and weight of AP kit?

Nice pictures Tony!
Can you tell me the approximate dimensions and weight of the AP option delivery box?
My wife is going to the States so she can take it with her on the flight home (nice Christmas present ;-) ).

I'm just busy with chapter 21, guess it will take not more than 8 hours when installing it directly with chapter 21.
 
Great pictures Tony! One question on the angle drill. Does it have a chuck so various size drills can be used? That part of it looks really small.

I think I am going to order the AP kit now, while I am still working on the finish kit and the tank, back window, turtle deck, etc. are still not installed.

Right now I am working on tank construction and wiring.

John
 
Questions answered...

Joeri,
The shipping box for the Autopilot Kit measures 18"X12"X10" and is marked with a weight of 10 pounds. Sorry, I don't have a metric tape measure ;).
Yes, this will be a dandy Christmas present.

BigJohn,
The Avery angle drill set that I bought comes with #30, #40, #12 special short bits that screw in. There is also a little chuck that screws in that can take tools up to 1/4 inch. Very nice tool, a pleasure to use.
722737193_o33Lk-S.jpg


Glad to be helpful,
Tony
 
More autopilot install time experience

I thought I would provide another experience with the autopilot install time for someone who is doing it midstream during the build process. Mine arrived when I was in the midst of flight control installation so I am only partially done with the finish kit. So far, I have invested 5 hours in deburring/parts prep, bracket installation, and fabrication of the control rods. I still have to bolt in the servos and attach the control rods (no more than 2 hours of work) and install the AP-74. I am estimating the final for me to be 7-8 hours for install in a partially completed airframe when tank and access panel removal is not necessary. If installed from the beginning as part of the build process, the install would probably take no more than 4 hours.

The most challenging step was the work on the seat rib- cutting out a section of aluminum in a closed space (I used a hacksaw blade), drilling out the rivets on the seat rib, and then match-drilling the bracket to the seat rib. Rather than buying the nice angle drill set that Tony bought (pictured in an earlier post), I purchased a cheap angle drill at Harbor Freight and then cut drill bits. It was really still too big to fit appropriately. I ended up making a drilling template to match the bracket that I could then cleco to the outboard side of the seat rib where there is more room to drill. Note- this part which took me more than 2 hours alone would have all taken about 15 minutes had it been done during fuselage assembly! Drilling out the rivets and installing the brackets for the flaperon servo is very easy using a regular drill.
 
AP Part and Page Numbers

Tony -

Could you please provide the part numbers for the AP parts you would suggest ordering, for those of us still in the build process; and also the appropriate plan book page numbers.

Thanks

Gary -
 
and once you get it in it works great! its digital so it doesn't "hunt" like the certified analog ones do. And of course with the 12 all you have to do is buy and install the two servos. Yes it takes a couple days if you're already done but way cool. nice to be able to look away once in awhile and not find myself in a 60 degree bank...lol
 
Tony -

Could you please provide the part numbers for the AP parts you would suggest ordering, for those of us still in the build process; and also the appropriate plan book page numbers.

Thanks

Gary -

The parts to install during the build are the Autopilot Bracket Kit, which is its own section of the plans, Section 39 (there are 4 pages).
The parts are:
1 ea. F-1269 Servo Doubler
1 ea. F-1286A Servo Bracket
1 ea. F-1286B Servo Angle
1 ea. Bag 591 AP Bracket Hwr-12 (various rivets, etc)
1 ea. Doc 12 AP Bracket - Section 39 Autopilot Brackets (plans).

These parts may be coming as a seperate little kit. It is shown that way on page 01-01. Call Van's and ask.
Tony
 
Last edited:
The AP74 Unit Is The Problem

I've already installed the servo brackets. It's the AP74 panel unit that is giving me a heartache. I would like to paint the instrument panels, and get them installed. My fear is that, if I cut the hole in the panel without having the D180 tray riveted in place, I would have troubles down the road. From all of the pictures that I have seen posted, you actually cut into the mounting rivets on the right side of the D180 tray itself. My fear is that while trying to install these rivets, after the AP74 hole is cut, would cause the holes to tear out and create an ugly mess. So, can you get that tray, before ordering the avionics kit??

Tom
 
It doesn't cut the rivets on the 180 frame but it does come up right next to them...works out great. Get the template and cut the hole now before you paint it if you wish...afterwards works too...its not that big a deal.
 
I've already installed the servo brackets. It's the AP74 panel unit that is giving me a heartache. I would like to paint the instrument panels, and get them installed. My fear is that, if I cut the hole in the panel without having the D180 tray riveted in place, I would have troubles down the road. From all of the pictures that I have seen posted, you actually cut into the mounting rivets on the right side of the D180 tray itself. My fear is that while trying to install these rivets, after the AP74 hole is cut, would cause the holes to tear out and create an ugly mess. So, can you get that tray, before ordering the avionics kit??

Tom

Actually, in my install the AP74 cutout did get into the rivets. Regarding painting, it is probably best not to paint the left side panel before having the the avionics kit. The rivets that you have to install to mount the D180 tray will not be covered by the D180. The tray for the D180 comes with it so doubt that it can be ordered seperately from Van's, but you could check with Dynon. Also, unless you are really careful, cutting the hole for the AP74 would very likely damage the paint.
Tony
 
Last edited:
Decision

I'm just going to wait on the AP74 cutout, until I get the D180 rack mounted. I think that is the safest way to go.

Tom
 
Install

I just finished the autopilot install (aircraft already flying) and I think waiting until after the D180 tray is in makes more sense. It does cut into the rivet heads on the D180 try by a little but does not compromise the 180 attachment at all. It is just very close. I am not sure how it would go doing it with AP74 first and then D180.

The install is straight forward. It would have been nice and much easier to install the brackets and make the cut out in the seat rib during construction. Since it is already pre-wired then all that would be required for the install is the servos and doing the panel. Now that it has been designed maybe the factor could include the brackets in the fuse kit.
 
Install Question

I dont have my AP yet, Vans were going to include it with the firewall forward shipment. My question: Are the brackets, braces, or whatever else is needed to mount the servos included with the servos or do you have to order and purchase some sort of mounting kit?

Thanks for any info.
 
Everything is included..

I dont have my AP yet, Vans were going to include it with the firewall forward shipment. My question: Are the brackets, braces, or whatever else is needed to mount the servos included with the servos or do you have to order and purchase some sort of mounting kit?

Thanks for any info.

The brackets, doubler, rivets and everything else needed comes in the Autopilot Option kit that is now being sold at $1950.

Page 01-01, the project flow chart, shows a seperate entry for a bracket kit and maybe that will be offered in the future.

Tony
 
Good news I think as

I picked up my fuselage kit today and it had the A/P servo brackets and install hardware in the crate. Wish I had know this as I also picked up the A/P kit today. It also has the brackets in the A/P kit. I could have delayed that cost till much later.
 
AP configuration...

After the hardware is installed, the so-called DSAB network must be configured so the EFIS can communicate with the servos. How to do it is detailed in the FlightDEK Installation Guide. In fact, anytime you add something to the network like the coming (soon, I hope) D100 you need to use the EFIS>SETUP menu to configure the network. After the D180 finds the AP74 and the servos, you then do a servo calibration and servo test from the EFIS menus. There are a bunch of servo parameters like Pitch Sensitivity that I left at default settings for now. This is all done on the ground. Once you run through this in the menus the autopilot comes alive:
771639041_wTPEA-M.jpg

and it is very cool. Here the autopilot tracks the heading bug...in my garage.
120.4 on the comm radio is SEATAC departure control, and I get the airborne half of that pretty strong at my house so used it to set the comm volume.
A lot of things like Airspeed Color Thresholds and V speeds are already configured in the D180 for us, so you don't want to change them.

Tony
 
Back
Top