Van's Air Force
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AST Control Arm
- Thread starter catman
- Start date
Clamp the parts tightly together while riveting to prevent the rivets from expanding in the middle of the joint, thereby pushing the pieces apart.
If memory serves correctly, I found that it was a lot easier to rivet the arm and the end rib together BEFORE riveting the rib to the skin. This was contrary to the instructions, but it worked better for me that way.
Go here and nearby days to see my entries for the days I was woking on the AST. http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displ...hn&project=639&category=4221&log=68861&row=30
If memory serves correctly, I found that it was a lot easier to rivet the arm and the end rib together BEFORE riveting the rib to the skin. This was contrary to the instructions, but it worked better for me that way.
Go here and nearby days to see my entries for the days I was woking on the AST. http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displ...hn&project=639&category=4221&log=68861&row=30
XOverZero
Well Known Member
There is an easy way.
Wish I had read this thread first. It would?ve saved me a bit of consternation. Catman and BigJohn are quite correct ? riveting the AST control horn to the AST inboard rib is absurdly awkward and (in my humbling experience) way too difficult to achieve decent results, even with a helper and a stout vise.
I had considered riveting the horn and rib together before pop-riveting the rib into the skin, but decided to do it according to the instructions. I?m guessing here, but I assume the reason for the published sequence is because one cannot get a rivet puller onto the forward-most rib/skin pop rivet due to the overhanging tab on the horn. No criticism intended, but I think they got it wrong on that step.
The solution for me was (drum roll please) more tools! The RV-12 tool kit I purchased from Cleaveland Aircraft Tools comes standard with a close quarter manual puller. Even so, that one rivet is still not really accessible. Also, back at the very beginning on Page 06-02, I had skipped the first operation, i.e., fabricating a little aluminum wedge to help pull rivets next to a perpendicular surface. Instead, I had purchased a wedge tool from Avery designed for that purpose, their part number 5012. Upon closer scrutiny, I found that the wedge tool and the close quarter puller would make it possible as long as I taped over the protruding control horn so it wouldn?t be scratched. So, after all the drilling out penance I riveted the horn and rib together, then popped that subassembly into the skin. Together, the wedge and puller worked perfectly. I should?ve checked it out more carefully before trying it per the instructions. I will next time.
Just want to pass this along in case anyone else can benefit from it. The usual YMMV caveats apply.
Wish I had read this thread first. It would?ve saved me a bit of consternation. Catman and BigJohn are quite correct ? riveting the AST control horn to the AST inboard rib is absurdly awkward and (in my humbling experience) way too difficult to achieve decent results, even with a helper and a stout vise.
I had considered riveting the horn and rib together before pop-riveting the rib into the skin, but decided to do it according to the instructions. I?m guessing here, but I assume the reason for the published sequence is because one cannot get a rivet puller onto the forward-most rib/skin pop rivet due to the overhanging tab on the horn. No criticism intended, but I think they got it wrong on that step.
The solution for me was (drum roll please) more tools! The RV-12 tool kit I purchased from Cleaveland Aircraft Tools comes standard with a close quarter manual puller. Even so, that one rivet is still not really accessible. Also, back at the very beginning on Page 06-02, I had skipped the first operation, i.e., fabricating a little aluminum wedge to help pull rivets next to a perpendicular surface. Instead, I had purchased a wedge tool from Avery designed for that purpose, their part number 5012. Upon closer scrutiny, I found that the wedge tool and the close quarter puller would make it possible as long as I taped over the protruding control horn so it wouldn?t be scratched. So, after all the drilling out penance I riveted the horn and rib together, then popped that subassembly into the skin. Together, the wedge and puller worked perfectly. I should?ve checked it out more carefully before trying it per the instructions. I will next time.
Just want to pass this along in case anyone else can benefit from it. The usual YMMV caveats apply.
Gagarin737
Well Known Member
The next tip worked for me. You really get a nice pressure from the tubing. Works better than clamps. I used it for all riveting were thin material is involved:
I have found it helpful to put a small length of plastic tubing over the shank end of the rivet. As the rivet is squeezed, the plastic tubing contacts first and squeezes the parts together. Then the squeezer contacts the rivet and sets the rivet.
Joe Arluck (LittleJoeA)
I have found it helpful to put a small length of plastic tubing over the shank end of the rivet. As the rivet is squeezed, the plastic tubing contacts first and squeezes the parts together. Then the squeezer contacts the rivet and sets the rivet.
Joe Arluck (LittleJoeA)
