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An Awful Sound

Ironflight

VAF Moderator / Line Boy
Mentor
It was a very short flight over to our neighboring airport this evening to attend our monthly “Choir Practice” (no actual singing takes place – it is simply a hangar get-together….), and as luck would have it, someone had parked a truck where I usually put the airplane. In order to give myself an “out” when I wanted to leave, I swung the Val around hard – but misjudged the edge of the pavement just a wee bit….

The sound was sort of a “Bang/Snap/Crunch!” Whatever …. it was loud, and I could tell I wasn’t going anywhere. I shut down and climbed out to see that I had apparently invented the RV retractable tail wheel – the wheel was pointing up at the bottom of the rudder, having spun on the round spring, and there was a fair amount of mud spread around. Both of the cross-bolts that hold the tail wheel “knuckle” to the spring had obviously sheared. I was surprised to see a small muddy hole with no obvious fixed objects – I expected that I had unluckily hit something hard and/or solid, but this was not the case.

Truth be told, I generally change these bolts every other annual since they almost always develop a little bit of play, and when removed, show obvious signs of wear. I didn’t change them this most recent annual, but will now make it a yearly event – they are pretty cheap! Still, better for those to shear than to damage the spring attachment to the fuselage – we did a thorough inspection, and found nothing bent or popped after tonight’s incident.

Fortunately for me, I was broken down next to several hangars full of homebuilding tools and parts – we had it all back together before the party really got going. I had to get a quick ride home to pick up a spare tail wheel link we have on the shelf – the one on the plane was slightly bent and had a broken rod end bearing (repairable) – and everything was back together with about 20 minutes of work.

Memories of that awful sound will probably make me a little less casual about imparting side loads on the tail wheel, and I’m going to makes rue to swap the bolts out annually. Meanwhile, I have some little bits of “bolt shrapnel” to add to my “worn out parts” collection that I keep to remind myself that nothing lasts forever….

IMG_4056.JPG


So - does anyone know the part number for that rod end? Double male AN3 threads....


Paul
 
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Glad to hear it wasn't more serious, Paul. Ya' just never know what dangers lurk.
Now, if it was a certain nose gear that hit the hole....well, the outcome may have been different. :eek:
Yep, I said it. :D
 
Having those bolts shear is a common problem with RVs that get used a lot. It is very difficult (I say impossible) to drill these holes in such a way as to get a tight fit that won't wallow out over time.

Of course the fix is to install taper pins in these holes after first tapering the hole with a #2 taper pin reamer. Fix it and you can forget it. While you're at it, install one of Vince Fraizer's improved steel tailwheel assemblies to improve your over-nose visibility and to correct the geometry of the Van's assembly.

You might want to consider this. Glad there was no other damage to your bird.
 
Having those bolts shear is a common problem with RVs that get used a lot. It is very difficult (I say impossible) to drill these holes in such a way as to get a tight fit that won't wallow out over time.

Of course the fix is to install taper pins in these holes after first tapering the hole with a #2 taper pin reamer. Fix it and you can forget it. While you're at it, install one of Vince Fraizer's improved steel tailwheel assemblies to improve your over-nose visibility and to correct the geometry of the Van's assembly.

You might want to consider this. Glad there was no other damage to your bird.

I'm thinking about going back and looking at the taper pins - I have just never taken the energy to research it before, but after shearing the bolts, it might rise to a higer level of awareness!

And I haven't used a Van's tailwheel in years - I am a firm beleiver that the Van's tailwheel is "damage waiting to happen" due to low clearance if you drop it over a lip. The Val has an API (extremely rugged), Louise's -6 has a Bell, and we have one of Alex's "Bell Clones" for the -3. I haven't used Vince's casue I don't (yet) have another plane that needs one.... ;) This little incident, however, could happen with any of them - it is due to side loads and twisting around the spring.
 
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Here's the parts list if interested:

AN386-2-9A taper pin (aircraft spruce)
AN975-3 taper pin washer (aircraft spruce)
B&S #2 taper pin reamer (http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVSM?PACACHE=000000142220635) (1/2 the price of AC$)

The taper pin is an odd-sized Browne & Sharpe #2 taper, so don't confuse it with other -2 tapers. I probably will never use mine again so if interested, I can ship it to you for $25. Just let me know.
 
Been there, Done that!

I shut down and climbed out to see that I had apparently invented the RV retractable tail wheel ? the wheel was pointing up at the bottom of the rudder, having spun on the round spring,

Sorry Paul, but you didn't invent this. It has happened to the best or us.
 
Same thing happened to me about a month ago, except I was lucky enough not to damage my Bell or Silver bullet link!
 
I was thinking about the taper pin mod. However, I think it might be a good thing to have the AN3 bolts break under the excess side load. It's possible that the damage would be realized somewhere more significant if it didn't fail where it did (I.E internal bulkhead)

Anyway, it's got me thinking about upgrading my Van's tailwheel.
 
I went with close tolerance bolts...

.... and pressed them in. That took the slop out. I do expect them to wear over time as well, but so far, 100 plus hours, no slop yet.

My only concern now is that if they do break, I will have to press them back out! Not sure if being in tight will reduce th possibility of breaking or not.
That is one heck of a side load to break off those bolts.

I have the taper pins and reamer, I just have not done that fix yet.

PS - If I got stuck somewhere remote, I would have no issues removing the links, and associated parts, wrapping a piece of wood, rubber, tin can, rope, whatever I could find, around the bottom end of the spring and turning it into a skid.
You would just have to carry your airplane by the spring to the runway and get her lined up. It only has to last for one take off and landing. Skids are very effective for directional control, in one direction, straight. Hope I don't have to ever try that.
 
I replaced the AN3 bolts with what we farmers call "split pins". These hardened pins are used to hold something like a gear on a shaft. You purchase a 3/16" split pin and hammer/tap it into place and then cut off the excess with a cut off wheel. I added a bit of lock tite while I was at it. In over 400 hours and four and a half years of flight the unit has remained lock solid. An added benefit is that there is no bolt head or nut showing and it makes a nice clean installation. These parts can be purchased at a local farm dealership for pennies.
 
Hey Tom, we call these "roll pins" here in the south. That is an excellent choice for an oversized hole like one would have in this case because they are driven in and will take up slop. Since they are tubular, one could drive a smaller one down the center of the larger one for additional strength.
 
Bummer! One of those good learning experiences. Rod end bearing your looking for is here. Part number depends on left or right hand threads.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/auroracm.php

Good luck!

Thanks - a little research showed it to be a CM-3S. Ive got to get a couple to rebuild the tail wheel link that will go on the -3.....

I really like the idea of the taper pins to tighten up the fit on the tail wheel-to-spring fit, but I want to make sure they aren't too strong. As some have mentioned, having those bolts shear is probably not a bad thing - much better than ripping the spring mount out of the fuselage. So the goal is a tighter fit with the same shear capability. I'll investigate.... thanks for the offer on teh reamer Randy - I'll let you know!

Paul
 
Paul, is there a website for "Alex's Bell Clone" tailwheel? I've been waiting for 4 months for a Bell tailwheel but haven't received a reply to my last three emails to Doug. I'm wondering what Alex' wheel looks like instead, and whether it might be an option.
 
I've had the original Van's assembly for 600+ hours with no sign of those bolts loosening. In fact I need a punch to get them out. I wonder if some of the holes were originally drilled slightly oversize and this contributed to their loosening?

I did replace the fork with Vince Frazier's unit, which has worked very well. It solves or greatly reduces the problem of catching a pavement edge, but maintains the same simple and light design as Van's.
 
Programmed failure mode

Has anybody considered that this failure mode may be a good thing? That by strengthening the primary failure point just pushes the failure mode up the chain? Just curious . . . my favorite cars have this progression designed in, this looks like one of those, fail it (and release the deformation energy) in a relatively benign way . . . you have to fix IT, but nothing more.

Just a thought. Rick 90432
 
I agree Rick! This is only a problem, under extreme circumstances, and some of us have learned this through experience and will not let it happen again. About the only thing I would plan to do, is take a couple extra AN3 bolts along in my flyaway kit. Lets not try to fix another problem that isn't really a Problem!
 
Updated Taper Reamer Info

Here's the parts list if interested:

AN386-2-9A taper pin (aircraft spruce)
AN975-3 taper pin washer (aircraft spruce)
B&S #2 taper pin reamer (http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVSM?PACACHE=000000142220635) (1/2 the price of AC$)

The taper pin is an odd-sized Browne & Sharpe #2 taper, so don't confuse it with other -2 tapers. I probably will never use mine again so if interested, I can ship it to you for $25. Just let me know.

I'm getting ready to order the pins/reamer to fix up my RV-6, which has a very loose tailwheel mount right now. Randy, I think you got this from an older post (one I've been referencing lately). The data may be out of date, so here's what I've gathered from my research:

Here's a current link to the MSCDirect page for the B&S #2 Taper Reamer.
MSCDirect Price: $50.48 + shipping

Another thread mentioned Travers Tool. Here is the link to B&S reamers from that company.
Travers Tool Price: $39.17 + shipping

Aircraft Spruce doesn't carry the #2 size, at least not in the online listings. They have all the other sizes from #1 through 6, just not the one I need (standard). Here's the link to the ACS page.
By my calculations, though, the #1 size reamer sold by ACS "should" work. The big end is bigger than the AN386-2-9A pin's big end, and the small end is smaller than the pin's small end. (hopefully that makes sense)
ACS price for #1 Reamer: $39.50 + shipping

Given that I can order the pins and some other stuff that I need from ACS at the same time, I think the #1 reamer from ACS works out to be the best deal. Now I'm just waiting for the wife to measure the outside diameter of the tailwheel mount, just to make sure I order the correct size pins/reamer. Randy's recommendation of AN386-2-9A gives a 1.125" grip, which sounds about right (trust - but verify).

Incidentally, I briefly looked up at some of the spec on the pins. ACS claims "minimum tensile strength 125,000 psi", which is the same as AN3 bolts. I know we're worried about shear strength here, not tensile strength, but that data gives me confidence that the pins are basically made of the same stuff as AN3 bolts - thus very similar shear strength. That, in turn, gives me confidence the taper pins are not an over-engineered fastener and will still fail before more important stuff (like bulkheads). They will probably be slightly stronger than the AN3 bolts, though, since the cross-section area will be slightly more.

Cheers,
 
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