This weekend I got the right aileron riveted together and am ready to do the trailing edge. the plans for the elevator called for proseal on the trailing edge wedge, but the aileron plans do not.
For what it's worth, I ended up building two rudders for my -7 -- both of which were the same as the -9 rudder.
My first rudder was destroyed in an unfortunate hangar door accident.
On the first one, I pro-sealed the rudder. On the second one I did not use proseal. I honestly think the second one came out straighter.
I used a long piece of thick aluminum angle and match-drilled it to the trailing edge of the rudder. Then I enlarged every other hole in the angle with a unitbit...just large enough to get a squeezer die in there. Then I clecod the angle to the trailing edge of the rudder and set every other rivet. I removed the angle then set the remaining rivet. I believe the trick is to not set the rivets all at once. I went down the line setting them a little bit at a time.
Again, I think it came out pretty darn straight.
Be sure to set the double-flush rivets fully though...many folks have gotten timid with those rivets and had the rivets pull through when the airplane was tied down in a strong wind!
This weekend I got the right aileron riveted together and am ready to do the trailing edge. the plans for the elevator called for proseal on the trailing edge wedge, but the aileron plans do not.
I used T-88 Epoxy, clecos, a piece of angle aluminum, and a clothes-pin between each cleco (to minimize puckering). When it was all set-up, I riveted slowly and according to Van's instructions. Worked great.
I just did both ailerons and both flaps, no proseal on any of them. They are just as straight as can be and are actually straighter than the rudder which was prosealed. I sure wouldn't use it, YMMV
Thanks for the pointers. I did the trailing edge of the right aileron last night and it turned out real good.
I ended up using a piece of 3/8" plywood with a cutout for the back rivet plate, so I didn't have to cut into my table.
I inserted the rivets on the top side of the trailing edge and taped them in. then flipped the aileron over and starting in the middle worked out one rivet at a time using 50 lb bags of gravel for weight and the back rivet set.
Once the rivets were partially set, I turned the aileron over and used the mushroom set to finish the job.