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Ahhh...the Right tool for the right job!

Ironflight

VAF Moderator / Line Boy
Mentor
OK, so sometimes, you just have to treat yourself.....

In searching out one of th remaining "bugs" in my panel wiring for Louise's -6, I discovered that the reason I wasn't getting audio form the #2 Comm receiver (an ICOMM A200) to the audio panel is that I had the shield and signal pins reversed - don't ask how, I can't tell you. These things just happen! Interestingly enough these two pins are directly above and below one another in the connector (slots "H" and "10" if I recall correctly). Unfortunately, of course, being already installed in the airplane, with all the wire bundling in place, it would have been nearly impossible to pull the connector out of the tray without some real gymnastics. I have used all sorts of kluges in the past to get these Amp pins out of the connector body - usually ending up with a tiny jeweler's screwdriver, or something similar, and generally damaging the pin.

A damaged pin usually isn't a problem, since the install kit comes with about three times more pins than you need, and you just crimp on new ones - but in the confined space under and behind the panel, I wasn't sure I'd have enough room to do this without opening up the entire wire bundle, which would have taken a lot of time and bad words. I know that a lot of techs have built their own Amp pin tool from a piece of broken hack saw blade, or other stiff metal, ground down to size, but I didn't have anything convenient, had never seen one on which to base my model, and was just tired enough of fooling around with things to stop by the electronics store to see if they had the tool.

Nine dollars later....(yup, it was nine bucks for that little two-cent piece of metal)...I had the tool, stuck it in the rack and instantly heard a satisfying "click". The pin pushed right out the back. So did the second one. they went in just as easily, and in five minutes, the job was done. It probably would have taken me an hour to make the right tool and much more to try and do the job without it. OK, at my hourly rate.....yup! It was worth it. At least, that is what I am going to keep telling myself - so I won't buy a pizza tonight, and I saved a lot of frustration. I'm not made of money....but sometimes, a little luxury like that is just what a guy needs!

Paul
 
I was aksed in a PM what the Radio Shack part number was for this tool....well, I didn't get it at Radio Shack, but it is a GC/Waldom "KK Series Extraction tool", part number W-HT-1884. I got this one at Fry's.

Paul
 
OK, so sometimes, you just have to treat yourself.....

Nine dollars later . . . [snip] . . .OK, at my hourly rate.....yup! It was worth it.

This is why when my build commences, or maintenance begins on the plane I buy, I must keep my Uncle-in-law away. He likes to build hot-rods, and has built up an arsenal of equipment to do so.

So, for instance, when I pull the lawn tractor into the 2,300 sqft heated and air conditioned shop to figure out why the deck is not level, and find one of the mountings has a snapped spacer washer, we end up spending an hour putting a (stainless, no less) rod into the three-phase industrial lathe he picked up a few years ago, to cut a standard 1/2 inch ID fender washer that we could get just a five minute drive away. He just doesn't get the 'my hourly rate' concept sometimes. But hey, he's retired and happy, so how can I find too much fault, eh?

I know, I know, it will be an invaluable resource someday (actually has already been many times over, along with the industrial mill that sits next to the lathe). I figure time spent doing this is 'banked time' for times I really need some serious machine shop work.

I was aksed in a PM what the Radio Shack part number was for this tool....well, I didn't get it at Radio Shack, but it is a GC/Waldom "KK Series Extraction tool", part number W-HT-1884. I got this one at Fry's.

Man, I miss me the Fry's on SO many occasions, having lived in the DFW area for a couple of years. Just not anything close to that kind of store around.

Paul, care to post a photo and maybe dimensions so that I or others might be able to manufacture a nice clone someday? Thanks!
 
Paul and Mike.

Paul, just curious, which pins/crimper are you using, the commercial stuff (ProCrimper II) or the fancy machined barrel ones that use the Daniels 4pt crimper?

Mike, I'll bet that washer was a work of art. You have a great resource. I would kill for access to a good mill and lathe (and some real skills..). Sorry about Fry's.. was there today. Bought some work stuff AND a cheap RC helicopter that I didn't get for Christmas! I always feel a bit oily after shopping there but can't argue with the prices and selection.

John
 
John,

I didn't even know they MADE machined-barrel Amp connectors - these are just the ones that come with ICOMM (and many other) radios. Are you talking about D-Sub pins and sockets? I have a four-point crimper for those, and use the machined-barrel stuff from Stein.

Paul
 
Nice looking panel Paul.
Next time you do a panel buzz out each wire before you tie up the harness. That is the way it has been done in any shop that I have worked in. It can save you a lot of grief and a sore neck and back. I have found that the neater you make the harness before buzzing out the wires the more mistakes found. Strange how it works that way.
 
Sorry..

John,

I didn't even know they MADE machined-barrel Amp connectors - these are just the ones that come with ICOMM (and many other) radios. Are you talking about D-Sub pins and sockets? I have a four-point crimper for those, and use the machined-barrel stuff from Stein.

Paul

Yep. I was referring to the D-subs... and you answered my question. Thanks!
John
 
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