ACS ignition swich repairable, rebuildable?

[Mike Redd]

In the start position, nothing, I checked the relay solonoid and they work when jumped. I think it's the switch or a broke wire ( I doubt) Has anyone repaired the ACS switch from Vans? Can you get just the back half of switch?

 

[131RB]

Mike,
You can pull the screws out that hold it together. Sometimes the contacts get dirty, worn or the springs underneeth them get weak. Chances are good you may be able to just clean up the contacts. I have not had to purchase any but I would guess the contacts can be purchased as separate units from someplace like spruce. Good luck.
Ryan

 

[az_gila]

AC Spruce

Do you think this will do the job?

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/ignitionswitchkit.php

 

[jrs14855]

spruce link

The shielding should be grounded at one end only, normally at the mag. The spruce info implies both ends which is incorrect.

 

[131RB]

Do you think this will do the job?

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/ignitionswitchkit.php

It says it comes with the internal contacts so it should be right Gill.
Ryan

 

[Flying again!]

I used the kit from Spruce and in 20 minutes had a repaired switch. It worked great and was easy to do.

The starter contacts had burn marks on them....turns out, the original builder had a starter with a built in relay but, the instructions say it the starter switch has to be able to take 21 amps. ACS says the switch should only carry 8 amps max so another relay is needed.

How many hours on your switch? Mine went bad after 230 hours. You may also need another starter relay. On the road now but will try to post pics and more info when I get back.

 

[alcladrv]

! also repaired my switch with the Aircraft Spruce part mentioned. No need to put it off. It was simpler and quicker than I thought.

My original lasted 720 hrs.

Mike

 

[Tom Martin]

I would repair that switch with two toggle switches

 

[Mike Redd]

Acs problem found

I found the problem, when I removed the switch I found the wire to the relay had come loose. Tightned it and all is well. My rv 7 has 825 hrs. This was the first problem with the switch. All the other wires were tight so I may have not tightend when building 9 years ago? Thanks for all the ideas.

 

[alpinelakespilot2000]

Edit: Disregard this post-I misread the post I quoted.

The shielding should be grounded at one end only, normally at the mag. The spruce info implies both ends which is incorrect.

If you search the forums you will see this is a much argued debate. Bob Nuckoll's argues for grounding shield at both ends in Aeroelectric Connection.

 

[alpinelakespilot2000]

I found the problem, when I removed the switch I found the wire to the relay had come loose. Tightned it and all is well. My rv 7 has 825 hrs. This was the first problem with the switch. All the other wires were tight so I may have not tightend when building 9 years ago? Thanks for all the ideas.

Did you use any loctite or anything to hold those tiny screws in there or did a single lockwasher hold things together for all that time?

 

[az_gila]

Different

If you search the forums you will see this is a much argued debate. Bob Nuckoll's argues for grounding shield at both ends in Aeroelectric Connection.

Not quite - the Bob N. discussion you refer to is for the shield on the P-Lead only.

The ACS instructions talk about EVERY wire in their diagram being shielded, and say the shield should be connected to the nearest airframe ground - sort of implying, but not quite saying, to do it at both ends.

It's a different reference than the P-Lead "which end to ground" dicussion...