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Access Holes

cstanley

Member
Guys: I'm about to rivet my baggage and back seat floors, but before doing so, I feel like I need to install one or more access plates (holes) so I can get to my COM1 antenna and couple other areas. I've seen lots of discussions about putting them in, but nothing about the process. I'd like to create flush plates, but that means I have to dimple the edges around the hole. How is that done, or do you just put a lid over a simple cut-out hole using nutplates?
Thanks!
 
Best way to create flush covers since you don't have the equipment to create a joggle like on the wing access plates is to create a double (say 1.5" wide) that extends 3/4" larger all around the opening for the access cover. Rivet this the the floorboard, and install nutplates to hold the cover on. Cover now flush.

THis was the way the access covers in the wings were made back in the day before Van's started supplying pre-punched skins for the -3, -4, -6 era kits.
 
I learn something new everyday. I fly an -8 and never thougt about how the other models might be different. In my -8, the baggage floor and even the shelf are removable (screws into nut plates along the edges). The rear seat floor is riveted in but the front seat floor is also screwed in.

I'd be interested in seeing a picture of the -10 with access ports.
 
You can order access plates kits from Vans. Be sure to put one to access the step bolts also. I added my photos of the bolt access plates using Vans access covers

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Guys: I'm about to rivet my baggage and back seat floors, but before doing so, I feel like I need to install one or more access plates (holes) so I can get to my COM1 antenna and couple other areas. I've seen lots of discussions about putting them in, but nothing about the process. I'd like to create flush plates, but that means I have to dimple the edges around the hole. How is that done, or do you just put a lid over a simple cut-out hole using nutplates?
Thanks!

A simple cover plate with nut plates will work. You should not need access to antennas if installed correctly. An internal doubler should be used at each antenna location with nutplates installed for the antenna. This will allow antenna installation and removal without internal access. The doubler is needed to prevent future cracking anyway.
 
Here is an inspection hatch I made in the rear seat pan to get to the lower COM aerial:

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In this case I used domed screws. I also put a hatch in the front floor for the XPNDR aerial and used countersunk screws/nutplates. Check out the instructions for the stall warning access hatch in the wing and it should all be clear on how to do it.

For the doublers, they should be tied into the flange and/or the web of the ribs/stiffeners to distribute the load and prevent fatigue cracking around the edges of the doubler.
 
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