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Access Holes for Tire Inflation RV7A

T

Tcheairs

Well Known Member
Temperature changes in my area are pretty extreme and I find that I'm having to check my tire pressures frequently (desired 35 in mains and 40 in NW). I'm considering drilling 1" holes in the pant fairings for easier access to the valve stems as I see many RV owners have done. I have the following questions for those who have done this surgery.

1. What is the most convenient location for the valve stem for straight on access? 9 o'clock, 3 o'clock or (other "o'clock")? .

2. What method is used to locate the hole? I was considering removing the entire pant, setting up a laser pointer on a scissor jack and pointing at the tip of the valve stem, then re attaching the pant and marking the laser spot on the pant. Any other easier method?

3. Given the "fragility" of the extremely thin fiberglass skin of the pants, would the use of a barrel diamond grit bit be the safest bit in order to drill slowly and reduce the chance of shattering the fiberglass? If not, what kind of bit would be safe to use? I can be ham fisted at times with a drill.

4. What type of (snap in) plug would be best considering that it would be painted in the matching pant color and have to be removable (and replaceable if lost)? Metal? plastic? Where could one find these plugs.

Link to diamond bit Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C3LC8296/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3BSP3E1ABPLNY&th=1

If there's a thread somewhere in the forum that covers all of this, I'd appreciate a link

Thanks in advance
 
Hole

I have a -10 but I drilled 3/4" holes at the 9 o'clock location. I aligned the valve stem with the hole and then put a small paint stripe on the wheel sidewall where it contacts the ground. Now all I do is roll the aircraft until the stripe is pointing down and then I know the valve is aligned.

I then use a 10mm nut driver to remove the stem cap, and a 6" stem extension to reach the valve. Sounds like a lot but takes no time at all to air the tires. I am using Leak Guard tubes and usually go months without having to add air...

I was going to put plugs in the holes but haven't as of yet. They fall in a black section of the paint and are almost unnoticeable.
 
Tcheairs said:
Temperature changes in my area are pretty extreme and I find that I'm having to check my tire pressures frequently (desired 35 in mains and 40 in NW). I'm considering drilling 1" holes in the pant fairings for easier access to the valve stems as I see many RV owners have done. I have the following questions for those who have done this surgery.

1. What is the most convenient location for the valve stem for straight on access? 9 o'clock, 3 o'clock or (other "o'clock")? .

2. What method is used to locate the hole? I was considering removing the entire pant, setting up a laser pointer on a scissor jack and pointing at the tip of the valve stem, then re attaching the pant and marking the laser spot on the pant. Any other easier method?

3. Given the "fragility" of the extremely thin fiberglass skin of the pants, would the use of a barrel diamond grit bit be the safest bit in order to drill slowly and reduce the chance of shattering the fiberglass? If not, what kind of bit would be safe to use? I can be ham fisted at times with a drill.

4. What type of (snap in) plug would be best considering that it would be painted in the matching pant color and have to be removable (and replaceable if lost)? Metal? plastic? Where could one find these plugs.

Link to diamond bit Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C3LC8296/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3BSP3E1ABPLNY&th=1

If there's a thread somewhere in the forum that covers all of this, I'd appreciate a link

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

The 3 or 9 o'clock location (left side aft, right side aft pant) is probably the best as it's not going to interfere with the fore/aft split, or the the U-808 bracket.

Laser method is fine, just make sure the tire/wheel location doesn't change when you put the pant back on -- use chocks, tiedowns, glue...whatever :)

You don't need a special bit, a cheap 3/4" or 1" hole saw should be fine. Fiberglass cuts like wood -- don't be afraid of it. Something like the attached in your drill and use light pressure and low speed ("1" setting on a DeWalt)...


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...8-in-Arbor-and-Pilot-Bit-49-56-9658/313347418
 
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Agree that the above hole saw is fine for fiberglass, but I remove the pilot drill, and drill the hole then replace the pilot bit in the hole saw backwards---so the smooth shank is now the pilot and not the fluted end of the bit.

Couple extra steps but makes for a cleaner cut when the hold saw wants to grab as is common with thinner material.

This will give you a much rounder finished hole
 
Hole saw

Mike S said:
Agree that the above hole saw is fine for fiberglass, but I remove the pilot drill, and drill the hole then replace the pilot bit in the hole saw backwards---so the smooth shank is now the pilot and not the fluted end of the bit.

Couple extra steps but makes for a cleaner cut when the hold saw wants to grab as is common with thinner material.

This will give you a much rounder finished hole
Click to expand...

What Mike ^ said. I have a piece of 1/4" polished steel rod I use for a pilot in all my hole saws.

Something else...
I like the idea of using the laser level to pin point the valve stem hole. However, the stem usually doesn't point straight out so you may want to screw an extender on the stem and mark the intersection of the pant then target the laser on that mark. That way the hole is aligned with the stem extender used to add air or check pressure. Just my thought.
 
The above posts to my questions are very helpful. The valve stems on my mains are perpendicular to the wheel plane. Also, the 3 o'clock position on the mains might place the hole very close to the fore/aft fairing split, but I'll check.

Great ideas on using the smooth shank of the hole saw to complete the drill process.

Any ideas on a snap in 1" plug? Will have to be painted in pant color (red) for appearance..
 

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My wheel pants have the valve stem access holes at the 3 o'clock position, and are all covered with stainless hole covers. Works fine. It's sometimes hard to get the valve stem to line up when I'm by myself and need to check/add air pressure. In those cases, I might jack up the wing to spin the tire. I've always kind of admired the wheel pants with a little access door...gives a lot more room but is more fiberglass work than I'd want to do.

..
 

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Another "trick"

Slightly off-topic.

Most of the hole-saws available at the big box home stores and hardware stores have teeth that sit alternatively inside and outside the desired hole dimension maximum. So when you want a 1" hole, you get a 1 1/8" hole, or worse, depending upon the amount of run-out in the drill chuck+mandrel+hole saw.

I picked this up from somewhere on VAF and it's worth re-sharing.

Chuck up your favorite hole saw in a drill press and set the RPM for ~1200 - 1500. Then hold a flat or mill second cut file to the outside of the holesaw to grind off the teeth on the outside of the hole saw.

YMMV, use good shop & safety practices.
 
Valve stem extensions

Get a 4 pack of plastic valve stem extensions for <$3.00. Use superglue or the like to achieve the length you need. Lighter and cheaper than a metal extension, as you'll probably want to carry it in the airplane.

I found that the 3/4" hole in my nose gear pant was a bit fussy to line up the hole. Enlarged to 1"with a unibit. It made a nice round smooth hole.

Plastic hole plugs fit much closer to the pant than metal ones. If they ever fall out, they'll do much less damage than metal ones.
 
MacCool said:
My wheel pants have the valve stem access holes at the 3 o'clock position, and are all covered with stainless hole covers. Works fine. It's sometimes hard to get the valve stem to line up when I'm by myself and need to check/add air pressure. In those cases, I might jack up the wing to spin the tire. I've always kind of admired the wheel pants with a little access door...gives a lot more room but is more fiberglass work than I'd want to do.

..
Click to expand...

I service an RV with the doors.. nice, but I also fly an RV with just a hole and no door or snap in plugs.. i I would consider colored tape and just replace it every time. I would think the small in caps would wear the hole unless you reinforce it with flox.. even then it probably would wear the paint more than some colored or even clear tape. I love the gorilla clear “repair” tape.. it looks like packing tape but is clear and slightly stretchy.
 
Taltruda said:
I service an RV with the doors.. nice, but I also fly an RV with just a hole and no door or snap in plugs.. i I would consider colored tape and just replace it every time. I would think the small in caps would wear the hole unless you reinforce it with flox.. even then it probably would wear the paint more than some colored or even clear tape. I love the gorilla clear “repair” tape.. it looks like packing tape but is clear and slightly stretchy.
Click to expand...

My wheel pants take a beating such that, in the scheme of things, injury from those caps is a pretty low-level concern for me. But yeah...Gorilla tape or 3M paint protection film would be simple enough though for those concerned.

Interesting thought however...slightly OT but I'll have to look at the feasibility and price of vinyl wrapping the wheel pants in lieu of painting them with the next refurbishment.
 
Guys, (MacCool) Please provide a source or where to look (if you can remember) for both the metal 1" clip in plug and also plastic if they exist. I've searched the internet, but I don't see any with the tooth clips..Seems to be the most secure way to attach them if the hole is the right size.

Also, I'm inclined to invest in the diamond bit (exactly 1") as the metal toothed bit looks a little too scary for me. I've already had to spend $300 to repair damage to my nose wheel fairing. 3 different paint colors at a very good body shop.
 
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Tcheairs said:
Guys, (MacCool) Please provide a source or where to look (if you can remember) for both the metal 1" clip in plug and also plastic if they exist. I've searched the internet, but I don't see any with the tooth clips..Seems to be the most secure way to attach them if the hole is the right size.
Click to expand...

Sorry...IIRC I bought those things at my hardware store...they had them in different sizes.

Try this though...https://www.amazon.com/s?k=snap+in+...198286&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_8l2vko98le_e
 
Looks perfect...thanks MacCool...and thanks to all for suggestions as to how to get this done (without laying waste to a wheel fairing) :)
 
Tcheairs said:
Guys, (MacCool) Please provide a source or where to look (if you can remember) for both the metal 1" clip in plug and also plastic if they exist. I've searched the internet, but I don't see any with the tooth clips..Seems to be the most secure way to attach them if the hole is the right size.
Click to expand...

Ace Hardware should have them.
 
Valve stem hole...........

bjdecker said:
The 3 or 9 o'clock location (left side aft, right side aft pant) is probably the best as it's not going to interfere with the fore/aft split, or the the U-808 bracket.
Click to expand...

I have the old style of wheel fairings (new ones from Vans are backordered, which is fine. It isn't like I don't have other things to do...!) and my holes are at the 3 o'clock position. I also have a painted line on the wheel/tire so I can line it up pointing straight down, which puts the stem exactly on the hole.

I used a steel toothed hole cover that could be painted. Home Depot Aviation Asle, I believe. I found some would part company with the wheel pant, so I riveted an anchor nut on a rectangle of aluminum that I hold in place on the back side of the hole, drilled a countersunk hole in the snap hole cover, screwing it into place. Haven't lost one since. I remove the valve stem cap with a short piece of rubber fuel line that fits exactly over the cover and stays in my onboard tool bag. I found some metal extensions on Amazon that are a little stouter than the plastic ones I had for years and like them! Search for Tiziri 4xPCS 100mm 4inch Wheel Valve Extension Rod. Would a door work? Yeah; heavier, more complicated, not IMHO needed. The hole works great! Simple. Easy. How did I drill my hole? That was in 1997.......probably with a hole saw.....or a Unibit:p
 
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Tcheairs said:
Also, I'm inclined to invest in the diamond bit (exactly 1") as the metal toothed bit looks a little too scary for me. I've already had to spend $300 to repair damage to my nose wheel fairing. 3 different paint colors at a very good body shop.
Click to expand...

Use a 3/4 - 7/8"holesawand upsize wirh a 1"unibit.
 
I’ve used the 1” nylon and also the metal plugs for my wheel pants on all of RV’s I’ve built or owned - all of those plugs purchased from Home Depot. That’s also where I got the plastic rattle can paint to paint the plastic ones. The plastic ones lay down flush on the pant, but require a little finesse to remove them for service to avoid paint damage. I use my Swiss Army knife to pry them off. I mark the area on the plug where the tangs are on the plug so I can pry at the right spot. Smooth hole made with a step drill with no hole wear over several years.
For hole line up prior to drilling - take the front pant off, line up the valve using the TLR method (that looks about right), and drill a 1/4” hole in the aft pant. Enlarge the 1/4” hole with your step drill a little at a time. You can move the hole center during this step drill enlarging by applying a side load on the drill motor if you miss the spot slightly. Mark the tire below the wheel pant split line with torque seal or finger nail polish so you can line it up later for servicing.
I think that’s the way most builders have done this, and it works very well.
 
Y'all got to be joking about the Aviation Isle at Home Depot...Is that the aisle with Duck Tape and Super Glue?
 
This is EXPERIMENTAL aviation

Tcheairs said:
Y'all got to be joking about the Aviation Isle at Home Depot...Is that the aisle with Duck Tape and Super Glue?
Click to expand...

Couldn’t resist:
This is EXPERIMENTAL aviation every isle is the aviation isle depending upon what you need :D
 
Aviation store

I have an Aviation Store 1/2 mile away.
It's called ACE. They even ask me what I need for the airplane when I walk in the door. :D
 
Scott. The plastic ones lay down flush on the pant said:
My new plastic plug was quite difficult to remove after I enlarged the hole. The Swiss Army knife technique tended to tear upthe edges of the plugs. I finally drilled a #8 size hole in the plug, and epoxied a nut in place on the backside. To remove the plug, I thread in a #8 screw a couple of turns and grip that to remove the plug.

Just read in this thread about plugs that were matched to the thickness of the material they were inserted in. That may be all you need.
Click to expand...
 
200 kt tape

Tcheairs said:
I'm not down to the duct tape and Super Glue yet, but I definitely know which aisle it's in..
Click to expand...

I never leave home without a small roll of 200kt tape in my tool bag. It comes off of The Mother Roll onto a small steel dowl. Never know when you will need that. There was another thread mentioning it would cover up a tank fueling hole when the fuel cap was left at the last fuel stop. I use the black stuff: Gorilla tape; seems to stick to things pretty well...;)
 
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