A couple of riveting questions

[rotoiti]

I have set my first rivets, yay!

Now I came to the part where I need to rivet the rudder hinge brackets to the vertical stabilizer. Van calls out 4-7 rivets there but when I squeezed one its head looks a bit on the small side. Should I use next longer rivet there? I think the kit comes with some 4-8 rivets.

Also, I cannot reach the rivets close to the bracket's corner so that it could be squeezed straight with a main squeeze. Should I use a rivet gun with a bucking bar there? Anyone remembers?

 

[JonJay]

http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/Specs.htm
You can measure the shop head and see if it meets spec. The rivet should protude through the hole before setting 1.5d
Buck, sniff, snort, do whatever is necessary to set those rivets that you can not get your squeezer on square. Support your work firmly. Practice on some scrap until you can get the gun pressure and technique down first.

 

[BobTurner]

yes, lots of rivets cannot be set with the squeezer. You'll need the gun and bucking bar(s).

Do yourself a favor and order from Spruce or Vans a bunch of extra rivets of all the common sizes. Also what Van's calls "opps" rivets (1/8" diameter but with the head of a flush head 3/32"). Unless you are very good you'll need them. If you want to come over to KLVK I can just give you some.

While you're at it you'll want to order an assortment of lock nuts and AN bolts and washers. Somehow you always seem to lose a few of these along the way.

 

[rotoiti]

To recap:
- Gun+bar worked well.
- 4-8 looks better than 4-7, even though that is what Van says it needs to be there.

Thanks all, appreciate the help.

 

[paul330]

I can't remember which piece it was now (something on the fuselage), but once I used 6 different riveting techniques to get something together:

- pneumatic squeezer
- hand squeezer
- rivet gun
- C Frame
- Back rivet
- pulled rivet

As for the rivet sizes, it has been covered endlessly. The plans are generally good but occasionally you need a longer size. And I'd second the comment on gettting spares. I bought a whole bunch of rivets, screws, bolts, nuts, washers, split pins, grommets............. They cost pennies (well, not quite) and it means you are never short of a part if you can't find the right packet or you damage your hardware.

 

[afgarcia]

I have set my first rivets, yay!

Now I came to the part where I need to rivet the rudder hinge brackets to the vertical stabilizer. Van calls out 4-7 rivets there but when I squeezed one its head looks a bit on the small side. Should I use next longer rivet there? I think the kit comes with some 4-8 rivets.

Also, I cannot reach the rivets close to the bracket's corner so that it could be squeezed straight with a main squeeze. Should I use a rivet gun with a bucking bar there? Anyone remembers?

If there is drift, there are actually a series of rivets that are listed too short.
In all cases, if there is doubt, it is better to rivet a little too long. If it is too short the risk of tearing is greater.
Attention must keep good sheets or workpieces to be riveted to one another, the rivet will not tighten.
It should also pay great attention to the cleanliness of holes and milling, deburring and clean well.
To learn, start putting some pressure in your air tools, you can increase it if the power is not sufficient. If you put too much pressure you're damaging and crush the rivets and mark sheets.
Tui'll quickly learn, but expect you to damaging some rivets, it does not matter, we all knew that.
Do not be angry with me for this answer too long.

 

[dspender]

rivets

What do you recommend as the size of 'extra rivets' to have on hand if I make a mistake?

 

[N15JB]

If you can predict where you are going to make a mistake, you can buy just those sizes. Otherwise just buy 0.1 pound of each size; rivets are cheap. It beats having to stop work on a part because you are 1 or 2 rivets short. The alternative is to buy some -3 and -4 in a long length and cut them to length with a rivet cutter, but you will pay more for the cutter than if you buy multiple lengths.

Jim Berry
RV-10

 

[JonJay]

I can not speak for the newer kits, but the older kits had plenty of extra rivets for each type required. There was enough variety to always get what you wanted with more to spare. I never bought any extra rivets. This was back in the day of the brown paper bags so perhaps things have changed.

 

[jc11378]

Riveting with a gun and Bar

One very important thing you can do when being inexperienced is set the air pressure down to what is just needed for the size of rivet you are shooting.

Here is a real quick list what i do and it really helps new people and the quality will be alot better to.

#3 rivets 35 - 40 psi is all that is needed,
#4 Rivets 45 - 55 psi is usually is all thats needed,

but if your shooting longer rivets thru thick material you might have to turn it up a bit.

A rivet should be set in 3 second shots on the gun.

I feather start when shooting (very slowly squeeze the trigger) This allows the rivet to set and swell with out alot of pressure. It really makes for noce rivets.

Also place tape over the rivet set to keep from maring the rivets.

These are just things people learn over time.

Also I am a big fan of a large face flush set not the 1-2 inch size flush set.

I would guess mine it all of 2in or more in diameter and is not the swivel type either makes for awesome flush rivets and will not dimple the skins being riveted.

And go get some advice from a EAA tech adviser they will be glad to give you some one on one.