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-7 intersection fairings

jimgreen

Well Known Member
I've got two questions regarding fit of these fairings. I haven't found answers in the archives.
1. Seems like I'll have to cut a hole in the upper intersection fairings to accommodate the hose clamps . Is there a better way?
2.
With weight on the gear, the leg fairing is flexed causing a gap at the underside. This seems to stop the lower intersection fitting well. If I jack it up to fit the intersection fairing, the leg fairing will put pressure on it when on the ground. Is this acceptable?
 
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Just to pile on with the questions... by "a better way," do you mean a way that doesn't involve the clamp? I don't see how but I'm anxious to find out.

The leg does flex, that's for sure. I took the upper intersection fairing off the other night, and notice the gear leg fairing -- clamp and all -- had been sliding up and down,,.. rubbing a nice shiny spot on the gear leg.

This is interesting because -- stupidly I now realize -- I had joined the group of people who put a nutplate on the lower end and screw the lower intersection fairing to the gear leg fairing to keep it from sliding down. So, of course the "give" was going to be up at the top.

It's not the most elegant contraption I've ever seen.
 
I too am scratching my head ...

...over wheel pant & leg fairing questions, since I'm installing mine right now while the wx is crappo. Surprisingly, I had deduced on my own that the lower end of the leg fairing had to be a slip fit at the intersection fairing - for exactly the reason Bob notes. It also looks like I will have to bond the trailing edge of my lower intersection fairing, and then split it vertically at the wheel pant joint line, otherwise I'll have to remove the entire x-section fairing to access the wheel in any way. It's also clear the lower x-section fairing is critical in placement, as it's what assures the lower end of the leg fairing is aligned correctly. Methinks I have more variables than answers right now. :eek:
 
Finishing this up myself

1. Seems like I'll have to cut a hole in the upper intersection fairings to accommodate the hose clamps . Is there a better way?
I am working on the same thing. I plan to use a nut plate on the lower intersect to hold the vertical position instead. For the brake lies I am using the same bands used to attach fire sleeve or CV joints in cars. Much less clearance is required and only 2 bucks at NAPA.
2. With weight on the gear, the leg fairing is flexed causing a gap at the underside. This seems to stop the lower intersection fitting well. If I jack it up to fit the intersection fairing, the leg fairing will put pressure on it when on the ground. Is this acceptable?
If you only hard attach the leg faring on one side I don't see a problem. The other joint should slip inside the intersect fairing. Bob's problem sounds like attaching at both ends...
 
I guess I didn't phrase my question well. With weight on the gear, the gear leg becomes a curve, and I'm putting a straight fairing on it. This makes it 'gappy' at the bottom. I see now that this is nothing compared to the torture I inflict on the gear in use! To fit the lower intersection fairing, I'll do it with weight off the gear and get the best fit.

Terry, I noticed a picture in RVator of the RV9 demonstrator showing an interesting way to build the lower int. fairing. The fairing split is at the trailing edge. The fairing is attached to the wheel pants with screws, but recessed for a nice smooth finish. Looks like it might survive well in service.

Regarding the lumpy hose clamp at the top of the gear leg, I don't remember noticing this on others' aircraft. I'd really like to cover it though.
 
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Regarding the lumpy hose clamp at the top of the gear leg, I don't remember noticing this on others' aircraft. I'd really like to cover it though.
If the hose clamp and gear leg fairing are properly positioned, there should be no interference b/w the hose clamp and intersection fairing at all. The intersection fairing should easily cover the clamp. (Note that the screw of the clamp should be on the aft side of the gear leg, sitting within the gear leg fairing. That's why you have to notch the gear leg fairing--to get the screwdriver in.)
 
I'll do it with weight off the gear and get the best fit.
This is the only way I would know to make sure your fairing and legs are 'in trail' while in flight. Mine is on jacks until the intersects are completed. Everything aligned for 'flight mode'
 
I, like many people, did not take weight off the wheels when aligning the gear leg fairings. There is no -- or at least shouldn't be... any sweep of the wheels when removing the weight and it seems to me a sweep of the gear legs is the only way the fairing could fall out of trail.

As far as the wheel pants, Van's instructions note that a method of aligning is via the tread and doing it that way (I aligned via the tread... via a laser level AND via the plumb bob method... all worked out to the same result) prevents any possible difference whether there is weight on or off the wheel.

The position of the intersection fairings themselves are dictated, of course, by the position of the gear leg fairings.

The result for me is a dead-centered ball. It's one of the few things I did on this plane that I didn't screw up. :*)
 
If the hose clamp and gear leg fairing are properly positioned, there should be no interference b/w the hose clamp and intersection fairing at all. The intersection fairing should easily cover the clamp. (Note that the screw of the clamp should be on the aft side of the gear leg, sitting within the gear leg fairing. That's why you have to notch the gear leg fairing--to get the screwdriver in.)

Yep .... exactly. Just did this yesterday. The hose clamp sits completely within the gear leg fairing, hence the hole necessary for screwdriver access.
 
Yep. I guess I wasn't thinking. I had the clamps on the inboard side. Sometimes this website can be a substitute for brains
 
Who makes the best fairings that fit? in other words, whose fairings should i buy?
thanks
fred
 
I got my main intersection fairings from Jan Hanekom (sp?) at RV Bits in S. Africa. They are excellent ... fit like a glove ... high quality stuff. Took no major re-fit or modifications at all. Shipping took less than 2 weeks, all the way from S. Africa. My nose gear upper fairing I got from Bob Snedaker at Fairings, Etc. ... equally high quality.
 
I got my main intersection fairings from Jan Hanekom (sp?) at RV Bits in S. Africa. They are excellent ... fit like a glove ... high quality stuff. Took no major re-fit or modifications at all. Shipping took less than 2 weeks, all the way from S. Africa. My nose gear upper fairing I got from Bob Snedaker at Fairings, Etc. ... equally high quality.

Jan's fairings (RV bits) are also in stock at Cleveland Tools here in the states.
For the 6/7 models - http://www.cleavelandtool.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RV67IF4#.UTUTv1eyLjU
For the 6a/7a/9a models - http://www.cleavelandtool.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RV679AIF4#.UTYNsleyLjU
 
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