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14-06, Step 2 - Rivet the flap hinge ribs and flap hinge brackets

md9680

md9680

Well Known Member
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What is the best method of riveting the 470AD4-7 rivets here? I've tried the pneumatic squeezer but don't see how those by the flanges, even when reachable with the 4" and Longeron yokes can be reliably squeezed. I've thought of using the C-Frame and the long back rivet set but...?
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If you can get to them with the squeezer and longeron yoke and keep it straight then all good. If not then the backrivet in the C frame is also a perfectly acceptable way to go. Once the C frame and whatever you use to keep the ribs flat are set up you can probably knock out all 6 ribs and hangars in one session pretty quickly.
I can’t remember which way I went but I found these two photos taken on the same day so I’m guessing I used the C frame.

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Richard Connell said:
If you can get to them with the squeezer and longeron yoke and keep it straight then all good. If not then the backrivet in the C frame is also a perfectly acceptable way to go. Once the C frame and whatever you use to keep the ribs flat are set up you can probably knock out all 6 ribs and hangars in one session pretty quickly.
I can’t remember which way I went but I found these two photos taken on the same day so I’m guessing I used the C frame.

View attachment 54526
View attachment 54527
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Thanks, Richard. Your rivet set doesn't appear to be a "back rivet" set. (No spring-loaded nylon cover) That's the only kind I have that's long enough. It will do, but do you remember where you found yours?
 
md9680 said:
Thanks, Richard. Your rivet set doesn't appear to be a "back rivet" set. (No spring-loaded nylon cover) That's the only kind I have that's long enough. It will do, but do you remember where you found yours?
Click to expand...
Good question! From memory it just came with the c frame. But that’s a 30yo tool now so I can’t really be sure.
If your 12” backrivet set fits the C frame which I think it should (1/2” diameter) - then that would be fine too.
If you haven’t tried this already then give it a practice on some similar scrap parts first.
The stack up of 2 ribs and 1/8 plate plus a long rivet set means you will need quite a bit more pressure than you think.
It’s not like backriveting skins and stiffeners.
 
TASEsq said:
My records showed that I was able to get to them with the longeron yoke. Have you tried through the lightening hole as well as around the edges?
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I have and I think I just don't have the entire piece secure enough and in the right position to get at them.
 
Richard Connell said:
Good question! From memory it just came with the c frame. But that’s a 30yo tool now so I can’t really be sure.
If your 12” backrivet set fits the C frame which I think it should (1/2” diameter) - then that would be fine too.
If you haven’t tried this already then give it a practice on some similar scrap parts first.
The stack up of 2 ribs and 1/8 plate plus a long rivet set means you will need quite a bit more pressure than you think.
It’s not like backriveting skins and stiffeners.
Click to expand...
Yeah, it looks it. If I can't get the squeezer set up right, I'll just use my backrivet set. I have a 3x gun I use with, as you said, elevated pressure. I prefer the squeezer, though, and will continue messing with it for a while. Thanks.
 
These were a little springy due to the thick flap hinges and thin areas. I was comfortable to do them with a normal gun and tungsten bar once they were held securely:20200602_164723.jpg
 
FlyingHusky said:
These were a little springy due to the thick flap hinges and thin areas. I was comfortable to do them with a normal gun and tungsten bar once they were held securely:View attachment 54774
Click to expand...
I was wondering how cushion the piece in the vice and I see you used what looks like some pipe insulation or packing material. I'll try that on the next one. Yeah, that "springiness" is a problem. Hard to get a good surface to surface contact on the web. Thanks.
 
If I remember right that was a very dense packaging foam from some appliance (a portable AC??). Some good amazon silicone vice jaw covers would probably work just as well.
 
Thanks to everyone who replied. FlyingHusky helped me realize I just needed to make the rib assembly immobile and, though I didn't use a vice, I did manage to clamp it to the bench with the end sticking out just enough over the edge. Used the 3x gun and tungsten bar to make quick work of it -- and without the distortion encountered using the c-frame.
 
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