What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

0-320 oil pump AD

R

RV7AAAAAAA

Active Member
Hello everyone. Trying to figure out what I will need to comply with the oil pump AD on my 0-320-E2A. I appears my driven impeller is aluminum and the idler shaft is press fit into the housing. The oil pump drive shaft does not have a woodruff key like it shows in the overhaul manual. Does anyone know if I should buy complete new oil pump or just replace gears?
Thanks
Jim
 
If you are certain that neither of the impellers is made from sintered iron and that the idler impeller does not have an integral shaft and that the drive impeller has a square drive not woodruff keydrive, then this pump has no AD'S on it and can be reused in the FAA's eyes, as far as the Ad'S go. Lycoming recommends replacement of the housing and impellers to the latest style at overhaul in their SB.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
?The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at you own risk.?
 
mahlon_r said:
If you are certain that neither of the impellers is made from sintered iron and that the idler impeller does not have an integral shaft and that the drive impeller has a square drive not woodruff keydrive, then this pump has no AD'S on it and can be reused in the FAA's eyes, as far as the Ad'S go. Lycoming recommends replacement of the housing and impellers to the latest style at overhaul in their SB.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
?The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at you own risk.?
Click to expand...

http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/5599/scan0001mx9.jpg
Mahlon Thanks for the help
How could I be certain impeller in not sintered iron. I can find no numbers on gears but one is aluminum. Drive shaft no. is 61174. Do you think I can use any of these parts for the latest style oil pump see pics above.
Thanks
Jim
 
The sintered iron impeller looks like pressed metal chips to make the impeller. It is a dark color normally. The plain steel drive impeller looks like it was machined steel out of a solid piece of metal and looks silver in color. If you can't find any one to confirm that the drive impeller is the plain steel and not sintered iron, you can send it to me and I will look at it and tell you for sure.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
?The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at you own risk.?
 
mahlon_r said:
you can send it to me and I will look at it and tell you for sure.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
Click to expand...

Mahlon I would like to take you up on this offer. Can I buy from you everything I might need? (Parts or complete oil pump) The drive impeller definitely looks like machine steel to me. If I'm understanding this correctly the following will not be used:
1. Aluminum driven impelller (no integral shaft)
2. Housing (Needs to be newer style - shaft now spins in housing)

Maybe the drive shaft and driving impeller can be reused. That's what I'll send to you.
Let me know if this is OK. Need shipping instructions email address.

Thanks again Jim
[email protected]
 
If you are going to update the pump to the latest configuration, you will need both impellers and a new oil pump housing.
If the drive impeller is a square drive and machined steel and the driven impeller is aluminum without a shaft in it, there is no AD requiring replacement of these components and from the FAA standpoint you could use them all over.
We should have any parts you need from gaskets to oil pump parts, in stock.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at you own risk."
 
"Lycoming recommends replacement of the housing and impellers to the latest style at overhaul in their SB."

Above is a Quote from Mahlon's first reply, I would suggest that if the pump is out of the engine and in your hand then just take this opportunity to replace the hole thing, I just did this when I bought parts from Aero Sport Power for a complete overhaul. They told me they had a bag of impellers that where certified and a bag that where experimental that where the same but cost less, the total was $300 give or take a few bucks if memory serves with the experimental impellers. I?m sure that Mahlon has all the same stuff and can hook you up, its your call but if its out already then its only money to have the latest design.
 
Russ McCutcheon said:
They told me they had a bag of impellers that where certified and a bag that where experimental that where the same but cost less, the total was $300 give or take a few bucks if memory serves with the experimental impellers.
Click to expand...

Russ - You're right I just got a quote of $181.87 (impeller gears and drive shaft)
Oil pump housing $83.50. New style set up. I was told much more than that in the past. Done deal, new oil pump on order.
Thanks to all
Jim
 
OIL PUMP AD

Hello All

I just found this old thread on the Lycoming 0-320 Oil Pump AD and was wondering if anyone has the AD Number.

I'm having oil pressure problem right now ( No oil Pressure with a direct reading gauge ) eventough I had pressure last time I flew the aircraft ( Weird that it will go T/U while seating in the hangar but better there than while airborne )

Tomorrow I will remove the accessory case to have a look at the pump to see if it has a woodruff key or not and any other visual damage.

I wanna also check the Overhaul Parts List to see if the AD has been complied with.

My engine is an 0-320 E2D.

Thank you

Bruno
[email protected]
 
Hi Bruno,
Sorry to hear of your problem,it's a head scratchier for sure,Can you post some photos of what you find?
RHill
 
RV-4 said:
I'm having oil pressure problem right now ( No oil Pressure with a direct reading gauge ) eventough I had pressure last time I flew the aircraft ( Weird that it will go T/U while seating in the hangar but better there than while airborne )
Click to expand...

If your oil pump is excessively worn, it can lose it's prime sitting in the hangar.
This was pretty common in the old small Continentals.
 
It's funny that this thread showed up when it did. I just pulled my rear accessory drive housing last night because I discovered all my drive gears have severe pitting and need to be replaced. My oil pump also has the aluminum gear. I was informed by an A&P to go ahead and upgrade to the new gears. The kit # he gave me is 05K19423-S, and the gear part#'s are LW18109 & LW18110. Does anyone have a good source for the oil pump upgrade and where can I find "all" the gears on the rear of the engine? BTW the engine is coming off and I'm splitting the case to inspect the rest of the engine for corrosion due to an extended storage without proper preservation.
 
RV-4 said:
Hello All

I just found this old thread on the Lycoming 0-320 Oil Pump AD and was wondering if anyone has the AD Number.

I'm having oil pressure problem right now ( No oil Pressure with a direct reading gauge ) eventough I had pressure last time I flew the aircraft ( Weird that it will go T/U while seating in the hangar but better there than while airborne )

Tomorrow I will remove the accessory case to have a look at the pump to see if it has a woodruff key or not and any other visual damage.

I wanna also check the Overhaul Parts List to see if the AD has been complied with.

My engine is an 0-320 E2D.

Thank you

Bruno
[email protected]
Click to expand...

This is the Lycoming SB that goes with the AD

http://www.lycoming.com/Portals/0/t...lers; Replacement of Aluminum Oil Pump....pdf

AD here... it is on the current FAA list

http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_G...AE90399AB5340ABE86256E1200477661?OpenDocument
 
Several years ago I was doing a pre buy on a mooney for a friend at clear lake Ca. In the FBO on a shelf for display was an oil pump housing with the the gears inside. The aluminum one split in two. I asked about it and they told me a guy was inbound to the airport for a flyin and overhead when he lost oil pressure. I was told he shut down the engine made a safe landing and no other damage was done to the engine. Pretty lucky.
Point is If I had access to the gears I would recommend changing them. They allow 2000 hrs on the aluminum gears but if one is there the parts are cheap insurance.
Ryan
 
Bruno- have you checked the oil pressure relief valve (side of crankcase) for proper function, some carbon or debris stuck between the springloaded ball & seat could cause a sudden pressure drop. Maybe save you a LOT of work before digging into the oil pump... but still good idea to research the AD for compliance.
 
0-320 OIL PRESSURE

Well Houston I have a problem....:eek:

Well today A friend of mine and I went ahead and remove the accessory case on my engine so that we could make sure the oil pump was working and that AD 524 had been complied with..

Short story both were ok and done....So we cleaned everything ,ensuring all was ok ( Oil passage,Pressure relief valve,Oil Pan checked and cleaned ( including oil pump inlet filter ) I mean everything was checked and cross-checked..

We re-installed everything, replenish the oil,prime the system ( oil pump and oil gallery ) and then tried a run-up..

Results: Still no oil pressure ( Of a direct reading gauge.)

We bypassed the oil cooler,tried again: still no oil pressure..

Remove the filter, Presure relief valve and both were dry..no oil whatsoever made to the filter or the pressure relief valve...

I'm at a complete loss for possible causes.( The only one I can think of could be that we still didn't prime the pump and oil system enough so it still can't build pressure but how much do I need to prime the thing )

If you guys can think of anything I could do or possible cause please let me know...

Tomorrow I gonna buy a pre-oiler so that I can pressurize the oil system and see if I get pressure..

Thank you for your imputs..

Bruno
[email protected]

P.S: RHill: I have pictures but can't post them...
 
Last edited:
Remove the center oil cooler hose. That fitting, in the center of the accessory housing, goes directly into the oil pump. Crank the engine over with the starter and see if you get any flow out that fitting. If not, the problem is the pump or the plumbing to it. If you get flow, the problem is after the pump. This will get you pointed in the right direction for further troubleshooting.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
 
Oil Pressure problems.

Hello Mahlon

Thank you for the suggestions,it is greatly appreciated..

We'll try that on monday.

Today to make sure that the oil pump was primed , we used a pre-oiler to oil the pump and the oil channels all the way to the pressure line going to the pressure gauge.

We were able to pump about 2 quarts inside the engine and build the pressure to around 25 PSI with our little homemade pre-oiler.

We also removed the oil Pan to make sure that the pump inlet channel wasn't plugged in any way.We also rechecked the oil pump inlet filter for potential FOD in it and also checked its oil gallery for obstructions but everything was cleaned and opened.

I then tried to crank the engine to see if it will build pressure but to no avail..The pressure dropped just as fast as I was cranking it.

Mahlon: Assuming that Monday we have flow at the pump outlet, what are the potential Gotha ( Potential causes )further down the road in the engine...

Thank you

Bruno
[email protected]
 
Last edited:
Do you have a spin on filter? Does yours go strait on the back or does it have a 90 Deg adapter?
 
131RB said:
Point is If I had access to the gears I would recommend changing them. They allow 2000 hrs on the aluminum gears but if one is there the parts are cheap insurance.
Ryan
Click to expand...

Thought I would take a couple minutes to correct myself here. I do not want to get into the weather or not an AD applies to an experimental or not this is simply my interpretation of the AD.
Reference AD 96-09-10 Textron Lycoming (this includes almost all 320,360 and 540 engines)
Item C states: For all other affected engines, replace any aluminum oil pump impeller and shaft assembly with a hardened steel impeller and shaft assembly in accordance with Avco Lycoming Textron SB No. 455D, dated January 2, 1987, or Textron Lycoming SB No. 456F dated February 8, 1993, or Textron Lycoming SB No. 524, dated September 1, 1995, as applicable, as follows:
Item C1 states
Replace at next engine overhaul (not to exceed the hours specified, for the particular engine model, in Textron Lycoming Service Instruction 1009AJ, dated July 1, 1992), at next oil pump removal, or 5 years after the effective date of this AD, whichever occurs first.
Ref the above AD all aluminum gears should have to be gone before January 2012 regardless of time on engine, as the 5 years had passed at that time. All gears should now be hardened steel.
Ryan
 
Oil Pressure

F1R ;

I have the B&C oil Filter 90 degres adapter with a specially made by B&C 1.6'' extension ( Related to a Back Up Alternator installation )

Thanks

Bruno
 
Thanks Bruno,
Check your videotron Email for message.

FL400S (FORD 95 V6 Mustang) filter will thread right on to the B&C adapter. The advantage is a built in check valve in the filter. Once primed, it will hold oil in the pump and right up to the filter for virtual instant oil flow when the engine driven pump spins.

I have always felt that the disadvantage to the 90 deg adapter is that it creates a non purge able air trap / pressure blister in the oil system. I sometimes fill my filter with clean oil before install to eliminate the air, but it is tricky not to make a mess.
 
LOW OIL PRESSURE; THE CAUSE..

Well Gents after looking at every possible angle to find the cause of my sudden lack of oil pressure on my 0-320 E2D RV-4 we finally found it today..

And trust me it wasn't the outcome I was looking for...

To summarize, we installed and removed the accessory case a few times to look at the pump, the oil gallery going from the pan to the pump, built an homemade pre-oiler to make sure the pump/engine was properly oiled and primed before doing test to no avail...: No oil pressure.

Today I borrowed a friend's Grumman and took the accessory case to the overhaul shop so that they could test the oil pump and it turned out to be ok.

While talking to the shop's owner he told us about possible causes eventough he never heard of an engine going from having oil pressure to none while seating in the hangar with a serviceable oil pump.

So off we went back to our strip and with the accessory case still off, my friend carefully pressurized the engine again and there it was....

Both Crankcase half are cracked on either side of the cam and there is another crack going from about an inch and a half below the cam to about level with the crack....that engine was litterally within minutes to stop working....

Eventough I'm pissed at having to rebuild this engine again after 250 hrs ( had to rebuild it at 300 hrs 6 years ago ) I thanked my lucky star it didn't quit on me 3 weeks ago when IFR with 500 feet ceiling..

So tomorrow I'm gonna take the engine ( minus cylinders/oil pan & rear case ) to the overhaul shop and get it fix...I will find out soon enough how much $$$ it's gonna cost...

So listen to your engine,it's talking to you..mine sure did...

Bruno
[email protected]

ps: I've got pictures of the cracks but can't post them here, if you wanna see them, send me an e-mail and I'll send them your way.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top