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  #1  
Old 02-28-2013, 12:58 PM
CharlieWaffles's Avatar
CharlieWaffles CharlieWaffles is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: West Linn, Oregon
Posts: 1,358
Default Issue with Left Air Inlet Ramp

I'm to the step where I need to cut the air ramps to clean the air inlets in the cowling and I am having an issue with the left ramp. I temporarily placed the 2" SCAT tube flange on top of the ramp to make the issue clearer in my photo. I see three options and problems:

1) If I cut the ramp back per the plans, it will cut into the location of the scat tube flange mount. So I would need to move it to the right.

2) If I move the SCAT tube hole to the right, then it would be buried under the conical side flange that will be installed between the ramp and the upright side baffle.

3) I could cut the cowl inlet itself shorter. Currently the inlet sizes are per plans (2" on the outer portion of the inlet, and 3.5" near the prop"). This may or may not necessitate removing the aft most nutplates near the flywheel.

Other ideas? Recommendations? FYI this is a stock setup for the RV-10 (IO-540, etc..)

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  #2  
Old 02-28-2013, 01:15 PM
N15JB N15JB is offline
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Denver
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieWaffles View Post
I'm to the step where I need to cut the air ramps to clean the air inlets in the cowling and I am having an issue with the left ramp. I temporarily placed the 2" SCAT tube flange on top of the ramp to make the issue clearer in my photo. I see three options and problems:

1) If I cut the ramp back per the plans, it will cut into the location of the scat tube flange mount. So I would need to move it to the right.

2) If I move the SCAT tube hole to the right, then it would be buried under the conical side flange that will be installed between the ramp and the upright side baffle.

3) I could cut the cowl inlet itself shorter. Currently the inlet sizes are per plans (2" on the outer portion of the inlet, and 3.5" near the prop"). This may or may not necessitate removing the aft most nutplates near the flywheel.

Other ideas? Recommendations? FYI this is a stock setup for the RV-10 (IO-540, etc..)

Charlie,

As with the cabin top and doors, I think Van's recommended cut lines are just starting points. I cut the al. ramp back to within 1/4" of the hole, which eliminated one rivet hole. Then trimmed the aft edge of the fiberglass till I had a 3/8" gap between the 2 edges. If I was doing it again I would trim the fiberglass to leave more of a gap. It is very difficult, but not impossible, to pull the rubber gap seal in to place when reinstalling the lower cowl. A larger gap would make it easier.

Jim Berry
RV-10
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  #3  
Old 02-28-2013, 07:27 PM
Wayne Gillispie Wayne Gillispie is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 1,499
Default

I did not have to remove that fwd rivet, I left about 1/4" gap which was too tight. I have to use an ice pick or cotter pin puller to get rubber seal pulled up. Before you do your final install, you may want to cut both air dams down 1/2" to start. Several have removed them completely.
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  #4  
Old 03-01-2013, 07:26 AM
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Bill.Peyton Bill.Peyton is offline
 
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Location: St. Louis, MO
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Default

Mark,
It appears that your cowl inlet ramp is to deep. When I trimmed the inlet I ended up cutting the ramp all the way back to minimum distance for the forward rivet, I then cut the glass back to obtain a 1/2" gap. It's still a real pain to install the cowl. As Wayne stated, you have to use a screw driver or pick to pull the baffle seal over the top of the engine inlet ramp when you are installing the cowl. I would recommend at least 3/4" gap between the glass inlet and the engine ramp. Below is a photo of how far back I have the engine inlet trimmed. You should also think about eliminating or trimming the front cylinder dam. I ended up removing it completely and I think Tim Olson removed all but the last third. I added the only photo I could find of the cowl inlet



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Last edited by Bill.Peyton : 03-01-2013 at 08:13 AM.
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  #5  
Old 03-01-2013, 10:22 AM
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CharlieWaffles CharlieWaffles is offline
 
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Location: West Linn, Oregon
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Default

Bill, from the looks of the second picture your inlet is cut back enough that there are only two screws near the propeller area, is that correct or is it that just two of them are cleco'd?
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  #6  
Old 03-01-2013, 11:59 AM
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Bill.Peyton Bill.Peyton is offline
 
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There are 3 screws, just 2 were clecoed
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  #7  
Old 03-01-2013, 01:32 PM
N15JB N15JB is offline
 
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Location: Denver
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The air dams on different -10s run the gamut from full height to none. I suggest installing them with nutplates instead of rivets, so they are easy to modify.

Jim Berry
RV-10
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  #8  
Old 03-01-2013, 02:29 PM
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blahphish blahphish is offline
 
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Location: Marietta, GA (KCZL)
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Default

I ran into this issue also. I opted for #3. 165 hours no problems.
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  #9  
Old 03-01-2013, 07:02 PM
N427EF N427EF is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,564
Default couple more pics

Nothing much to add here just what everyone said, trim more off the inlet ramp.





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  #10  
Old 03-02-2013, 12:26 AM
dhmoose dhmoose is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 341
Default No room

Quote:
Originally Posted by N15JB View Post
The air dams on different -10s run the gamut from full height to none. I suggest installing them with nutplates instead of rivets, so they are easy to modify.

Jim Berry
RV-10

Jim, it's a good idea but there isn't any room for the nutplates. The air dams are right up against the cylinders fins.

David
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