RV-7 N117TR

[crabandy]

Attempting to make some Aluminum windscreen fairings, we will see how it goes.
I taped some oversized poster board onto the plexi then used a scap piece of aluminum to fine the plexi/skin intersect point. I've got the fairings cut, we'll see tomorrow if I can bend them to fit.


My SD8 was hand delivered today by William of B and C Specialties on his way to KC. Pretty cool service! I can't wait to get it installed.

[crabandy]

I mostly referred to this posting for info on how to do the aluminum windscreen fairings
https://picasaweb.google.com/m/viewe...09801837447890
After mounting the windscreen, I taped some construction paper to the windscreen slightly overlapping the front skin. I used a small (1 inch) piece of scrap aluminum to lay onto the windscreen and find it's intersection point with the top skin. I made 1 inch dashes all around the construction paper, as well as referenced common rivet holes to make sure my templates were symmetrical. I used tape for some reference lines and roughly measured the angles at the reference lines. I removed the construction paper and cut my curved windscreen to top skin line, traced onto the aluminum and projected the curved line 20/32 lower on the aluminum and cut.


I cut and sanded a piece of styrofoam to match the windscreen top skin curve and cut a 2x6 with the same curve.

I doubled up the rollers with longer screws on this edge former to make the bent flange. I almost messed up, I rolled the edge about 5 degrees on the flat table first. When I went to check the fit, I found it didn't want to bend around the windscreen hence the 2x6 cut to the curve.

The curve on the 2x6 doesn't have to be exact, mine was a loose 1/8 inch. The wood form will not match the curve on the aluminum, just stick it out the front enough that the edge roller can make it around the radius. The bend is accomplished with the roller, not the 2x6. The 2x6 holds the curve while you bend the flange. It took about 20 min solid of rolling and sweating, way less mess than sanding though.

So far I think they look pretty good!

I had to use a hole finder to drill the existing holes on the longerons.

I left the aft edges and top oversized to trim later.


I still have to trim the fairings down and decide wether to drill or glue the windscreen.

[crabandy]

Going to see Airplanes tonight!

I trimmed the fairings and added a cover plate for the splice at the middle. I'm going to wait till I attach the canopy to finish the aft edges and the top strip. I still have to drill the plexi and deburr/simple everything.

[crabandy]

My daughter made me an RV Bday card, I have to say I like her paint scheme!

[crabandy]

I got the windscreen fairings drilled to the windscreen, deburred, countersunk etc.
I bought these little Herbie clips to clamp the vacuum line for my manifold pressure sensors. When I inventoried the bag I thought it odd that the inside of he bag was all wet, directions actually say to store wet to aid in installation. They seem to grip the smaller diameter tubing pretty well, we will see how they hold up.



I obviously didn't pre-plan my electrical system well enough, I was going to be close on fuse slots. I added another 8 slot fuse block powered from the main bus just in case to allow for future upgrades.

[crabandy]

It's amazing how busy all of the wiring gets, I've attempted to run it orderly and with a purpose.....not too bad for my first one but my next plane will be better!

My dual EFII ignition only came with 1 RPM output. I emailed Robert at EFII about this, my G3X has 2 inputs and I wanted to have an RPM reading even if I was only using 1 ignition like on run up. I can't say enough about the great customer service from Robert at EFII, even during Oshkosh within an hour or two I had a 100% solution to my email. Several days later I received 2 wires and a connector in the mail free of charge. 1 wire needed to be soldered in the DB25 connector to the 22 pin of the 71 ECU to provide a Second RPM output and the second wire in the connector snapped into the 71 ECU and hooked to ground.
Here's a pic of my crappy first time soldering of Dsub pins, I bet you can find pin22 that I soldered, not pretty but she's solid.

I removed my vacuum pump cover plate to install the SD-8, my accessory case is slightly different with the single mag. The SD-8 bolted right up with a little finger yoga.


The instructions say to mount the regulator/capacitor/relay behind the firewall (strongly suggested). I was going to mount on the front side of the firewall but caved in and told myself if I mounted the regulator/capacitor/relay on the center rib inside I will comply with the instructions and I won't have to install nut plates on the firewall. Just 4 rivets for a doubler and a big hole for a firewall pass through. I've got it about halfway wired.

[BillL]

Is it just me or "Look who's popular" no pictures here?

[crabandy]

Hmmmm, never knew I was "popular." I really don't want to have to move all of the pics, photobucket has me by the tailwheel!

[Vlad]

Give them $40 every two years and you are all set. They got me 4 years ago

[crabandy]

Well played Photobucket, you win for now....