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Old 09-25-2012, 07:49 PM
Brandi's Avatar
Brandi Brandi is offline
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Marietta, GA (Based at KCZL)
Posts: 113
Default Our Experiment: Lord Adhesive vs. Weld-On

On our -10 we have one door window installed with Weld-On and all other windows installed with Lord adhesive. We've noticed a few areas around the weld-on window where the surface is raised at the window gap. (the Lord adhesive windows are all fine) This gap was sanded real well before I applied the filler (no glass) and was smooth at first flight. I have some speculation that it was caused by a quick change from hot temps on the ground to pretty cool temps at altitude.

Brandi Unrein
RV-10 / KCZL / 1000+ hrs ✈️
First flight: 6/16/12
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:05 PM
aerhed aerhed is offline
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Big Sandy, WY
Posts: 2,567

I had the right one pop loose and suck air in that same spot (weld-on). Got the old window "almost" out and cracked it. Nothing 20 hours and a couple hundred bucks won't fix.
Actual repeat offender.
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Old 09-26-2012, 06:04 AM
Wayne Gillispie Wayne Gillispie is offline
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 1,499

With the flimsy doors, curvature mismatch, coefficent of expansion and one support strut it does not help. I used weld-on 45. No delamination yet, but plenty of cracking. Are you noticing any cracking yet?
Good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.
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Old 09-27-2012, 07:17 AM
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Bill.Peyton Bill.Peyton is offline
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 1,883

I used sika adhesive, probably a mistake. It has too much elasticity. It looks good now, but I suspect when it sees some really hot temps it will show. When I had it in the paint booth, we took it to 140 degrees and saw one area of flex. It appears the lord adhesive, along with a couple of layers of glass cloth, seems to be the ticket
Bill Peyton
RV-10 - 1285 hours
First Flight Oct 2012
Aviation Partners, LLC

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:00 AM
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rleffler rleffler is offline
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Delaware, OH (KDLZ)
Posts: 4,284

Originally Posted by Bill.Peyton View Post
It appears the lord adhesive, along with a couple of layers of glass cloth, seems to be the ticket
That's what I did, but since I'm just going to the paint shop, it's too early to tell if I made the correct decision. I also didn't attempt to sand the fiberglass down to a feather edge either so that it would retain as much strength as possible to resist the cracking. The 1/32" - 1/16" step may not win me any awards at OSH, but I know my windows are firmly secured.

Bob Leffler
N410BL - RV10 Flying
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Old 09-27-2012, 09:13 AM
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Aerosport1 Aerosport1 is offline
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canal Winchester, Ohio
Posts: 420

330 Hrs in below 0 degrees F to over 100F with the lord 7545A/E and no cracks. Just FYI

Geoff Combs
RV-10 N829GW 865hrs
1940 Piper J3 Cub
Rans S21
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Old 09-27-2012, 09:23 AM
douglassmt douglassmt is offline
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Missoula, MT
Posts: 730
Default Stock + fabric

I used the Weld-on per the plans, but added a ~1" wide layer of 3 oz fiberglass over the joint. After finishing and sanding, I don't think there was much of the fiberglass left, but it was still visible. After paint, no visible joint at all. Now, after 200 hours since February and temperatures from below 0 to 105 deg F, I see a little "gap" if you look at it in the correct light. It actually looks like a little bump or sag perhaps in the paint right at the joint. But you have to look hard and at the right angle to see it and the paint has not cracked. I'll be watching it but fairly happy so far. If I did it again I'd probably go with the Lord, though.
Bryan Douglass
=VAF= 2022 dues paid
RV-10 N242BD
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Old 09-29-2012, 10:34 AM
vjwodack vjwodack is offline
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Copperas Cove, TX
Posts: 11
Default fabric?

Is the point of the transition strips to cover the gap from the window to the cabin top, or is the glass being used as a structural piece to help hold the window in place?

If the transition strips are just for covering the gap, I'm curious if anyone has ever used/considered using strips of polyfiber or similar to cover the transition. The polyfiber system has a much larger flex factor than fiberglass. Thoughts?
Jason Wodack
Building an RV10...sooner or later.
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Old 09-29-2012, 10:49 AM
douglassmt douglassmt is offline
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Missoula, MT
Posts: 730
Default Structure

Maybe a little of both as I understand it. The fabric provides a substrate for the paint to adhere to that is less likely to stretch when the differential expansion of the plexi and fiberglass occurs. The gap seems to still appear but the paint hasn't cracked - so far.
Bryan Douglass
=VAF= 2022 dues paid
RV-10 N242BD
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:21 AM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,662
Default Another data point....

When the rollover structure static tests were done to failure, side windows were literally shattered and blown out (there is a small dent in the side of Van's airport car to prove it )
Post test examination showed that anyplace the windows were attached to the door frame or cabin top, it was still bonded, with just the center portion fractured/shattered. The only way to remove the bonded area was to grind it off.
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