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  #1  
Old 10-26-2011, 09:07 PM
Walt's Avatar
Walt Walt is online now
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
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Default More Bad Flares on Fuel Lines Found, What's up with this?

To be honest folks I'm really getting tired of finding these bad/cracked flares made with substandard tools. Making new fuel lines for already completed aircraft is not my idea of fun. Please folks, fuel lines are really important, how about using the right tools, get someone to show you how to do it properly and inspect your work (using a magnifier) before installing a bunch of defective fuel lines, please do if for me

These are off a customers RV10, found in the tunnel.

Cracked Flares


You can see the crack here at about 2 oclock on the lower edge of the flare!


Cracked from 12 to 2 o clock


Left is good flare, Right is BAD flare


This is an example I grabbed from my junk drawer to show what an acceptable flare should look like.
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EXP Aircraft Services LLC
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Last edited by Walt : 10-26-2011 at 10:30 PM.
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  #2  
Old 10-26-2011, 09:22 PM
DaAV8R DaAV8R is offline
 
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Location: Lee's Summit, MO
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Default Give us a lesson

So I bought my new handy dandy Parker Rolo-flair. It has a bump stop to establish the relationship between the die and the end of the tube. When flairing small tube the bump stop doesn't reach the point where the tube will bump against it.

In other words, I'm finding it difficult to place the tube in the flairing tool at the correct location. For that matter, what is the correct protrusion prior to flairing?

I am using a drop of oil on the flair.

While the Parker tool seems to make a nice flair, I'm finding it a little awkward to use. Overall, I'm not that impressed with it.

Give us a few pointers.

Thanks in advance.
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  #3  
Old 10-26-2011, 09:34 PM
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GAHco GAHco is offline
 
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Location: Paso Robles, CA
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Post Tubing that meets specifications would help!

The tubing that vans sent with my kit, in my opinion is not fit for any critical plumbing purpose!

That said I was happy with most everything else.

The trick for good flares are, Material, Tools, and Technique.

For Aluminum tubing we sell alot of spec WWT/700-4 in various sizes.

Tech page here http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com...ubing+info.pdf This link also shows the specs for popular Stainless Tubing.

For tips on how to single flare tubing, here is a good link. It is demonstrated with Stainless because that is what most people have trouble with, but the principles work well with Aircraft Spec aluminum.

http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com...eel_Tubing.asp
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Last edited by GAHco : 10-26-2011 at 09:40 PM.
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  #4  
Old 10-26-2011, 09:39 PM
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Walt Walt is online now
 
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Default

I've often thought of getting a more expensive tool but the Rolo flairing tool does a more than acceptable job if you take the care to do it right, here are some of the things I do:

1) Preperation is everthing, after cutting the tube sand/file it flat (tube cutters do not leave a flat end), debur inside and outside, remove all sharp edges, polish with emery cloth then a scotchbrite pad (gray) inside and out.

2) I find the "stop" on the Role flair is to far up and makes the flare to big, I just eyeball it. when the flare is the right size the OD of the flare will match the OD of the ferrule.

3) Go slow, like you're tapping treads, back and forth just going a little at a time and use plenty of 50W on the flare tool. When the tool meets some resistance stop, it very easy to overflare so don't apply to much force.

4) Inspect with a 3x minimum glass for defects.
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EXP Aircraft Services LLC
Specializing in RV Condition Inspections, Maintenance, Avionics Upgrades
Dynamic Prop Balancing, Pitot-Static Altmeter/Transponder Certification
FAA Certified Repair Station, AP/IA/FCC GROL, EAA Technical Counselor
Authorized Garmin G3X Dealer/Installer
RV7A built 2004, 2000+ hrs, New Titan IO-370, Bendix Mags
Website: ExpAircraft.com, Email: walt@expaircraft.com, Cell: 972-746-5154

Last edited by Walt : 10-27-2011 at 08:31 AM.
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  #5  
Old 10-26-2011, 09:56 PM
AeroBuilders AeroBuilders is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Austin, TX
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Default

In all my years of Airline aircraft maintenance there where several common items found when it came to fuel line leaks;

1) Over-torqued "B" nuts at the fuel line attachment point (this can cause flared tube end cracks).

2) Fuel line chaff through (improperly positioned/routed fuel line which made contact with other parts and chaffed through).

It is always critical to inspect fuel line flared ends for cracks prior to install. Small cracks only detected by magnifying glass will even cause leaks so be vigilant. Also, make sure your fuel line routing is clear of possible chaff contact points.


BTW, Walt this is a great subject and thanks for sharing with the forum!!!
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  #6  
Old 10-26-2011, 11:14 PM
Sig600 Sig600 is offline
 
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Default

Can you photoshop in some arrows to the cracks you're pointing out? Even zoomed in on my iPad I can't see what you're talking about.
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  #7  
Old 10-26-2011, 11:41 PM
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Geico266 Geico266 is offline
 
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Default

Great thread Walt. I must admit I am a rookie when it comes to flairs and I have been using the stop on my tool thinking it was correct.
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  #8  
Old 10-27-2011, 05:28 AM
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Default

Thanks for reminder Walt. This hairline circular crack might happen if you over flare.






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  #9  
Old 10-27-2011, 06:35 AM
humptybump humptybump is offline
 
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Location: USA
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sig600 View Post
Can you photoshop in some arrows to the cracks you're pointing out? Even zoomed in on my iPad I can't see what you're talking about.


Walt - I think I am close but I'll remove the image if you disagree.
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  #10  
Old 10-27-2011, 06:45 AM
rhill rhill is offline
 
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Location: Valley Forge, Pa
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GAHco View Post
The tubing that vans sent with my kit, in my opinion is not fit for any critical plumbing purpose!

That said I was happy with most everything else.

http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com...eel_Tubing.asp
Not the first time I have heard this,Weight vs Safety,I would like to know which grade of aluminum tubing is best for this use,or would stainless steel be
x times safer? Over the years,and now on the Ten's,Fuel fires have been an issue.
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