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Rolling leading edge of rudder

M

mbetti

Active Member
It says to roll the skin with a piece of 1/2 pipe. I already have the bearing eyes in place to dimension, can this be acomplished with them in the way?
Mike
 
Dan,
I just finished my empenage and no you can not roll the skins with the rod bearing in place.

It is also been a pain when rolling the skins. try to get some help and you really need to press down on the table top when you are rolling and a couple of vise grips come in handy.
Smilin' Jack
Waiting on wings.
 
mike

I used 3/4" copper pipe and two pair of "Vicegrip" pliers for each section. I highly recommend using "Gorilla Brand" duct tape.
It's heavier, thicker and tackier than other tapes. Regular duct tapes were a waste of time.
Ragards
 
lorne green said:
I used 3/4" copper pipe and two pair of "Vicegrip" pliers for each section. I highly recommend using "Gorilla Brand" duct tape.
It's heavier, thicker and tackier than other tapes. Regular duct tapes were a waste of time.
Ragards
Click to expand...

I used Gaffers tape. Much better than Duct, but costs $13 a roll if you can't find a leftover 3/4 used roll @ work...
 
i used regular ducttape, and a pair of vicegrips, no fancy table mounts, etc, they turned out great

you are supposed to put the eyebolts in last for a reason :D
 
It is also been a pain when rolling the skins. try to get some help and you really need to press down on the table top when you are rolling....
Click to expand...

Get hooked...makes it easy:

28lawox.jpg


688q6x.jpg
 
yep

you can but you have to cut your pipe or whatever you use just a little shorter than the distance between the rod ends, it will leave enough room between the skin and the end of the pipe for pliers. I used a wooden dowel i had laying around so cutting wasnt a problem.
 
Thanks for re-posting that, Dan. I've got some rolling to do soon and I couldn't find your original post.
 
Thanks for re-posting that, Dan. I've got some rolling to do soon and I couldn't find your original post.
Click to expand...

You're welcome Gil. You'll find a length of 3/4 electrical conduit cheaper than iron pipe, and easy to cross drill for a T-handle. Since the work is j-bolted to the table, you can twist with both hands. Don't forget the plastic sheet under the work, which allows the work to slide as you roll.

14x13jb.jpg
 
Question for DanH

Dan,
When you taped up the skin to the pipe, you didn't tape it right at the edge of the metal, did you? It looks like you attached it 3/4" or so from the edge, do you remember?
 
Last edited:
When you taped up the skin to the pipe, you didn't tape it right at the edge of the metal, did you?
Click to expand...

Sure..only way you can do it. Search out the good 3M HD duct tape.
 
Great! All rolled out. One section I over rolled a bit, but it will work just fine. The rest rolled perfectly. Thanks again.
 
Great pictures and idea, Dan! Say, the plans call for a 1/2" pipe, and I just got one from Menard's. It looks small in diameter(?) Is that why you're using a 3/4" pipe?

I did overhear a guy in the Van's tent at OSH trying to figure out how he was going to rivet the leading edge together after over rolling, presumably they're both pointing down toward the spar and he's got to "lift" them up somehow.

Could that have been from using a 1/2" pipe?

Cheers,

Brad
 
rolling the leading edge of rudder

There is no easy way to tape that leading edge of the rudder to a pipe and then accomplish a nice smooth roll so everything lines up neat as a pin. Be thankful for pop rivets.

If I was going to do this job again, I have often wondered if it would be possible to use a milling machine to run a narrow saw kerf down the length of the pipe into which you could then insert the leading rudder skin and then tape it to the pipe and commence rolling it? This would/should give it a nice curve and be easy to remove from the pipe after it is formed.

Anyone try this before?

RV 8A flying
 
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