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  #1  
Old 03-11-2009, 10:51 AM
Mike S's Avatar
Mike S Mike S is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 16,167
Default Cowl and intake mod

So, what do you do if there is a BIG hole in your lower cowl???



How about covering it up with something like this???



Now, you are probably wondering why would I want to cut up a perfectly good cowl, and add a new hunk of plastic to it??

Maybe, just maybe, it is to accommodate something like this???



O.K., not exactly like the above, but so close most folks might not see the difference, and besides, I dont have a shot of the finished unit yet.

What does it all mean???

Rod Bower, the ram air guy, is working up a package for the RV 10.

If interested, contact Rod for details.
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Mike Starkey
VAF 909

Rv-10, N210LM.

Flying as of 12/4/2010

Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011

Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.

"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."

Last edited by Mike S : 03-11-2009 at 11:35 AM. Reason: try to turn the stupid **** link into a real photo
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  #2  
Old 03-11-2009, 12:06 PM
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Location: 08A
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Looks nice Mike. As it happens, I'm doing something similar on my -8, so I've thought about the "big hole" (which is not as big as yours).

There is going to be some loss of structural integrity to the bottom cowl. If we don't so something about it, I suspect we'll see spider cracks or worse at the corners of the opening. To toughen up the edge of the hole I've raked out the first 1/2" of honeycomb core and replaced it with flox/epoxy. Next I'll add two plies of 9 oz on both the inner and outer surfaces, a doubler ring of sorts around the opening. Because the lower cowl can see some significant radiated heat, those plies will be laminated using Aeropoxy PR2032 rather than West 105, just to get the higher Tg (195F vs 125F).
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  #3  
Old 03-11-2009, 12:38 PM
Mike S's Avatar
Mike S Mike S is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
Looks nice Mike.
Yes, I agree with you, but Rod is the one who gets the thanks, he is doing the work shown here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
As it happens, I'm doing something similar on my -8
Have you seen what Rod did on his 8??




Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
There is going to be some loss of structural integrity to the bottom cowl.
Yes, and because of the training wheel on the 10, that big slot for the gear makes it worse. I am going to bend up a piece of .060" or so alum, couple inches wide, bent into a horseshoe shape, with outward facing feet, that will be bolted to the cowl over the slot. Similar to a fork brace on a motorcycle.
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Mike Starkey
VAF 909

Rv-10, N210LM.

Flying as of 12/4/2010

Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011

Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.

"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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  #4  
Old 03-11-2009, 05:20 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Ya know, I made an assumption that's probably not correct.....is the new scoop bonded in place or removable? If bonded on place, forget what I said.

Mine is getting an intake scoop much like Rod's, but it will go on and off with a few quarter-turns. Should make cowl installation easy, in particular since I'll have no need to remove it to do a TB adjustment or look inside the lower plenum area.
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RV-8 SS
Barrett IO-390

Last edited by DanH : 03-11-2009 at 05:28 PM.
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  #5  
Old 03-11-2009, 06:40 PM
Mike S's Avatar
Mike S Mike S is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
Ya know, I made an assumption that's probably not correct.....is the new scoop bonded in place or removable?
I am going with removable, held on by 18 of these.



With a 3 blade prop, getting the bottom cowl off is a bit of a pain.

Having a big opening will make minor service work easy-----at least that is the plan.
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Mike Starkey
VAF 909

Rv-10, N210LM.

Flying as of 12/4/2010

Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011

Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.

"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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  #6  
Old 03-11-2009, 07:07 PM
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PlaneBuilderBill PlaneBuilderBill is offline
 
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Location: Euless, TX
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Default My Removable Intake

While only on a lowly carbureted engine....the idea and result is the same. Ease of service. The ability to change the oil and check out the entire underside of the engine without without removing the lower cowl.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

I buried and used epoxy & flox on #8 nutplates in the cowl. I use stainless countersunk washers and screws. I like them better than Camlocks....
There is also a strip of carbonfiber about 2" wide at the back of removable intake part and also on the back edges of the lower cowl just for extra stiffness.
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  #7  
Old 03-11-2009, 11:48 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Lookin good Bill.
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  #8  
Old 03-12-2009, 12:47 AM
rodbower rodbower is offline
 
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
Looks nice Mike. As it happens, I'm doing something similar on my -8, so I've thought about the "big hole" (which is not as big as yours).

There is going to be some loss of structural integrity to the bottom cowl. If we don't so something about it, I suspect we'll see spider cracks or worse at the corners of the opening. To toughen up the edge of the hole I've raked out the first 1/2" of honeycomb core and replaced it with flox/epoxy. Next I'll add two plies of 9 oz on both the inner and outer surfaces, a doubler ring of sorts around the opening. Because the lower cowl can see some significant radiated heat, those plies will be laminated using Aeropoxy PR2032 rather than West 105, just to get the higher Tg (195F vs 125F).
Dan, planning on using the quick release fastiners for eaze of install/removal. Once the quick release locations are established, I will cleco on the scoop (with mold release) and lay up an inner flange (2") attached to the original cowl and mold release on the new scoop creating a right angle stiffiner (.5")for structional support. Using carbon layup of 2.5" wide (2" x .5"vertical lip) following the contour of the new scoop, the .5" angle should really stiffen it up. The cross section just ahead of the cut for the nose gear will be supported with an .040" alluminum flange attached cross ways to the glass creating a support for the quick fastiners riveted thru the glass and the aluminum.
I also dug out the honeycomb and squeegied in flox and sanded to a round edge. Using the aeropoxy is a good idea. Where can I get some? The 2" flange will also provide a nice bed for the quick fastiners.
Rod
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  #9  
Old 03-12-2009, 07:48 AM
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rocketbob rocketbob is offline
 
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Is that an automatic mixture control that I see on the servo?
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N9187P PA-24-260B Comanche, flying
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  #10  
Old 03-12-2009, 09:01 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Default

Sounds like a good plan Rod. If I picture your description correctly, the outer surface of the scoop winds up flush with the surface of the cowl, which is a nice trick.

Looks like a floating receptacle in Mike's post. Bill has a point about using screws and nutplates. Don't want the scoop moving around and chaffing, and a row of screws returns the scoop to structural duty, more or less. Gonna think about that. My scoop hole isn't nearly as big as Bill's or yours, so I may stick with quarter-turns and use fixed receptacles.

Wicks has the PR2032 Aeropoxy, just ordered more yesterday.

BTW, nice shop. Is that an L-4 photo on the wall?
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