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  #1  
Old 06-12-2020, 12:38 PM
Leopold Leopold is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 41
Default Tailwheel shifts to "castering" mode too easily

Hi, all.

I've got an RV8 with (I think) a Bell tailwheel. Lately, when taxiing, and turning right (right rudder), the tailwheel shifts from steerable to castering with only minimal pressure. Going left, it does not have that problem.

I took the tailwheel assembly apart yesterday, cleaned all the parts (including the spring and the dog that it fits into, and the rectangular hole in the bolt that the dog fits into) with solvent, re-greased, and put it back together. Same problem.

Took it apart, cleaned it, and looked at it (should've done that first time). There is some metal wear; the rectangular hole really is not exactly rectangular, and the place where the dog "breaks" from steering to castering also looks slightly worn.

I was thinking of just replacing all those parts...does anyone think there is an easier solution that I am missing?

Thanks,

Seth
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  #2  
Old 06-12-2020, 12:42 PM
Ralph Inkster Ralph Inkster is offline
 
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search 'castoring tail wheel'
There is a large number of threads dealing with this.
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  #3  
Old 06-12-2020, 12:57 PM
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Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
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The most important thing is to lightly file or sand the long edges of the pin. Wear creates burrs on those edges making the pin stick and causing the issues you are seeing. I'm still using the original pin and spring in my 1999 RV-6 with Bell fork...it has been serviced several times.
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  #4  
Old 06-12-2020, 01:05 PM
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Jpm757 Jpm757 is offline
 
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Location: Sherman, CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Buchanan View Post
The most important thing is to lightly file or sand the long edges of the pin. Wear creates burrs on those edges making the pin stick and causing the issues you are seeing. I'm still using the original pin and spring in my 1999 RV-6 with Bell fork...it has been serviced several times.
Ditto Sam's reply, I pull my assembley out every 25hrs. to clean and lube. Might keep an extra spring and pin in stock, Flyboys has them.
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  #5  
Old 06-12-2020, 02:10 PM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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For me it was not the pin but the control arm/yoke. The slot in the arm had worn just enough for the pin to not lock in. With a a new part from flyboy accessories, https://www.flyboyaccessories.com/Do...g-p/1102-t.htm, everything back to normal.
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Last edited by alpinelakespilot2000 : 06-12-2020 at 02:14 PM.
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  #6  
Old 06-12-2020, 02:23 PM
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mike newall mike newall is offline
 
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Ours is doing the opposite.

Just changed to the Flyboys tailwheel with new pin and spring and it is reluctant to break out.

10 years old - may just replace the whole stinger/knuckle.

Does anyone know if it comes pre drilled from Vans ?
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  #7  
Old 06-12-2020, 03:49 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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https://www.danhorton.net/Articles/1...lTuneUp.pd.pdf
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  #8  
Old 06-12-2020, 04:02 PM
Leopold Leopold is offline
 
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Location: Seattle, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph Inkster View Post
search 'castoring tail wheel'
There is a large number of threads dealing with this.
Thank you, Ralph. I was misspelling "castoring", which is why I didn't get those threads. I am a real newbie.

Much appreciated,

Seth
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  #9  
Old 06-12-2020, 04:04 PM
Leopold Leopold is offline
 
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Dear Sam, Jake, Steve, Dan, and Mike,

Thanks for the great suggestions. Will give the steps in the article a try (need to go buy a little file) and see if that helps. I did not notice any burrs. But I will look again.

Seth
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  #10  
Old 06-12-2020, 04:11 PM
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Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leopold View Post
Dear Sam, Jake, Steve, Dan, and Mike,

Thanks for the great suggestions. Will give the steps in the article a try (need to go buy a little file) and see if that helps. I did not notice any burrs. But I will look again.

Seth
Fine-grit sandpaper will work, you just want to smooth off any sharp edges on the pin.
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