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Old 06-12-2019, 05:28 PM
Foghorn's Avatar
Foghorn Foghorn is offline
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 220
Default Tank over prosealed?

I'm checking out my new to me tanks. One tank has about 5 rivets leaking and the other tank didn't leak but it has lots of proseal. There's also quite a few rivets that look like the proseal has pushed them out or they weren't set very good (or at all).

What do you guys that have gone before me think. Can I fix the leaking rivets, the high rivets and what about all that proseal around the rivets?

Should I just make my own for peace of mind?



Jeff Parker
RV8 Fastback (Tomís Dream) - Building (N767TS)
C195 (Red Dawg) - Flying (N4469C)
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Old 06-12-2019, 05:43 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,759
Default Tanks

Try sanding off the excess and see if it's ok. Looks like proud rivets not set properly.
Leaking rivets are another story. You would need access holes in the baffle to buck the replacements after drilling them out. Vans sells the hole panels. The last option would be to assemble new tanks.
Personally, I would build new ones.
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 01/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit, now FWF
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.

Last edited by wirejock : 06-12-2019 at 05:45 PM.
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Old 06-12-2019, 05:56 PM
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Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
Posts: 3,252

Like Larry said, build new tanks. Find a local builder to assist.

I offer that this is just the first indication of a host of problems.

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Old 06-12-2019, 07:02 PM
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BrianDC BrianDC is offline
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 289

Aft row of rivets isn?t a huge deal. You could drill out and re-rivet as you have access. Rivets on the nose are another story. Repairing those through an access hole sounds like the beginning of a very difficult journey. Tough call but building a new set of tanks sounds like an easier road vs trying to repair.

Sorry for the not so great news.
Brian Lester
RV10 Slow Build - #41778
Finish Kit - in progress
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Old 06-12-2019, 07:19 PM
Robin8er Robin8er is offline
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Socal
Posts: 524

I think you could save these tanks. Like Brian said, the rear set of rivets is easy to fix. Just drill out the rivets that are leaking, dab some pro seal on and re-rivet it. It could all be done in less than an hour.

If you have leaking rivets other than the rear row you may be able to use the green locktite people talk about. I havent used it, but apparently it works. You could also carefully remove the rear bulk head, replace the bad rivet, clean the tank, then proseal and re-rivet the back bulkhead. It would be tedious work, but then again so is building new tanks.

Pro seal isn't as bad as people make it out to be. Its messy and smelly and takes forever to clean after it has cured, but its not at all impossible. It just takes some patience/dedication/elbow grease.

As for the proseal on the outside of the tank, I used a scotchbrite wheel on a drill to clean it, then use a dental pick to clean up around the rivets. When you got it nice and clean, use your favorite primer and then paint it when you are ready for paint.
RV-8 N695RA flying
Working on an RV-4

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Old 06-12-2019, 07:28 PM
Larry DeCamp Larry DeCamp is offline
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Clinton, Indiana
Posts: 1,150
Default Ask me how I know 😒

Fix the bad rivets and send them to Minnesota for refurb/ sealing.
Larry DeCamp
RV-4 fastback in process w/ Superior roller 360/AFP/G3X/CPI/Catto3b
Clinton, IN
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Old 06-12-2019, 08:07 PM
sf3543 sf3543 is offline
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 1,093

If it were me...
I would mark all the leaking rivets
Drill off the rear baffle
Drill out the leaking and any other bad looking rivets
Rivet in new rivets with proseal to replace the bad ones.
Get in there and really clean everything in preparation for new pro seal
Put a layer of proseal over every rivet and joint in the tank.
Then install the back baffle according to the plans
Extra pro seal inside the tank doesn?t hurt.
While it?s open you can check the vent line as well as the fittings in the root rib.
I don?t think it?s that big a deal but if you have access to a local builder who has done proseal before to get you started it would be nice.
Good luck.
Steve Formhals
A&P, Tech Counselor & Flight Advisor
Legend Cub
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Old 06-12-2019, 08:52 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 5,062

If you're going to build new tanks (I would), it's certainly worth trying to fix the existing ones first. If nothing else, you'll learn a lot. And you might get good tanks out of it, too.

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Old 06-12-2019, 09:10 PM
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johnbright johnbright is offline
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Newport News, Va
Posts: 389
Default Tank simple dies

If you build new tanks I recommend tank dimple dies.
John Bright, RV-6A, N1921R reserved, at FWF
O-360, 8.5:1, vert sump, dual SDS EFI EM-5-F
Z101 as a template, links
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Old 06-13-2019, 05:24 AM
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Foghorn Foghorn is offline
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 220

Thank you for the advice. I'll probably start with Davids recommendation and then proceed to new tanks, if necessary. The rest of the wings look pretty good and the lower outside skin is still off so fixing any proud rivets I find should be fairly easy.

Jeff Parker
RV8 Fastback (Tomís Dream) - Building (N767TS)
C195 (Red Dawg) - Flying (N4469C)
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