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  #1  
Old 02-23-2019, 10:57 AM
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kjowen kjowen is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Marietta, GA
Posts: 155
Default Do I cut the countersink cage to fit?

Guys,
I am working on -8 empanage / elevator.
I am to the point of countersinking the spar in 4x to attach the E-709 rib.
Call out requires countersinking as elevator horn fits over spar and must sit flush.
The two inside holes - easy.
What's up with the outside / upper and lower holes?
Do I take a cut off wheel to my micro countersink cage?
Help!


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  #2  
Old 02-23-2019, 11:20 AM
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nzrv8 nzrv8 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Australia and NZ
Posts: 212
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Yep - Just grind the side off the bottom of the cage - Just enough so it fits.
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  #3  
Old 02-23-2019, 11:47 AM
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Champ Champ is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Kingsville, Ontario, Canada
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Instead of cutter mod all I did was chuck the bit in a drill or in my deburring tool. Works fine - Do it carefully and check depth with a rivet as you go. At times I got to lazy to get out the countersink and did it this way even when there was no access problem.
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  #4  
Old 02-23-2019, 11:48 AM
Gusmax Gusmax is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Sherwood Park, Alberta
Posts: 88
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Look up slim microstop on the ATS website. I bought one last week and it works great! They also have an extended microstop that I should have ordered also.

Last edited by Gusmax : 02-23-2019 at 11:52 AM.
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  #5  
Old 02-23-2019, 12:10 PM
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N804RV N804RV is offline
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Mount Vernon, Wa
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I took the CS bit out of the cage and did it freehand. Easy Peasy. Just take your time. I have a threaded mandreal from an old CS cage that was pretty beat up. I threaded the bit into that mandrel which I then chucked up in my drill.
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  #6  
Old 02-23-2019, 12:32 PM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Location: SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Champ View Post
Instead of cutter mod all I did was chuck the bit in a drill or in my deburring tool. Works fine - Do it carefully and check depth with a rivet as you go. At times I got to lazy to get out the countersink and did it this way even when there was no access problem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by N804RV View Post
I took the CS bit out of the cage and did it freehand. Easy Peasy. Just take your time. I have a threaded mandreal from an old CS cage that was pretty beat up. I threaded the bit into that mandrel which I then chucked up in my drill.
Ditto for me.

I suggest you buy two more microstops; one for #30, one for #40, and one for everything else. I wasted so much time adjusting that thing every time I switched bits it drove me crazy!
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  #7  
Old 02-23-2019, 12:38 PM
MS1095 MS1095 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: West Chester, PA
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Can you dimple instead of machine countersinking?
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  #8  
Old 02-23-2019, 12:46 PM
Cannon Cannon is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Moorpark, CA
Posts: 175
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I couldn?t see any reason not to dimple those. So I did.

Lots of others here dimpled those as well.
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  #9  
Old 02-23-2019, 02:33 PM
ksdflying ksdflying is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Antioch, Tennessee
Posts: 103
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This is a case in example where you are over thinking this. I remember this. In situations like this, ALWAYS recall the option to simply grab your hand debur tool, change out its debur bit with the #40 or #30 countersink (whichever matches the hole) toolling bit, then hand countersink using finesse and care. And move on.
Obviously return the deburr tooling bit back into your hand deburr tool.
Yes, you can dimple these here. That advice applies. It's just overkill. But yes, dimpling is always better. Just not needed in this instance.

Good time to point out an important SIDE NOTE, for in your future. I learned the hard way. Please trust me; just make a sticky note and do not forget this...When you get to you fuel tanks....(I know, that is down the road), but no one does a good job of conveying this and Vans won't tell you. There is a row of rivets on the rear portion of the fuel tanks (top and bottom) for the Skin to the Rear Baffle. Vans says to countersink these. Absolutely do not countersink these. I did. and these look like horse $#!T. Everything with tanks came out perfect as to plan, but one of the last final steps...these skin to baffle rivets...they ruined this otherwise seamless process. Absolutely no need for the mentioned clearance need that vans state in the drawing. That is BS. Dimple these! Please! You will get a many times over better finish of your tanks. Frustrated no one shared this tip to me ahead of time, otherwise my tanks would have finished out perfect.

Anyways. like I learned....guard yourself from over thinking. Use the MIL spec for your quality guidelines. If the rivet meets MIL spec, move on.
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Last edited by ksdflying : 02-23-2019 at 02:43 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #10  
Old 02-23-2019, 03:12 PM
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hgerhardt hgerhardt is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: torrance, ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N941WR View Post
Ditto for me.

I suggest you buy two more microstops; one for #30, one for #40, and one for everything else. I wasted so much time adjusting that thing every time I switched bits it drove me crazy!
This. And get one of those extended narrow nose cages too.
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