Double-flush riveting technique

Getting close to riveting my rudder trailing edge and I'm trying to figure out the proper technique in setting these double-flush rivets rivets. Specifically, when you start off with the rivet set parallel to the rivet and then tilt it to set the rivet flush to the skin, is that one continuous motion as you're riveting? Or do you give a little burst, stop, reposition and then continue? I'm guessing it's continuous, but would rather not experiment trying to find the best way if I don't have to.

Todd
RV-10 Emp

Todd,
I dismissed Van's instructions for the TE of the rudder and did what Tom Emery (WPA Builders Workshop) recommended. I match drilled a piece of 2" aluminum angle to the TE rivets. Next I prosealed the wedge to the skins and clecoed it all to the angle and let it dry. Once dry, i enlarged every other hole in the angle with a unibit - large enough to accomodate a squeezer die. Then I clecoed the angle back into the rudder and set every other rivet as much as I could. I took the angle off and did the rest of the rivets, checking every couple of rivets to see if the alignment got off. Finally, I lines up the TE with the edge of the bucking bar and aligned the rivet set with the skin.

The real advantage to this is you set 1/2 of the rivets with the TE held perfectly straight by the angle. I ended up with a 1/32" bow in the very middle. Well within specs.

I documented this process on my webpage: http://rvplane.com/?categoryid=2&dayid=94.
Good luck.

Auburntsts said:

...when you start off with the rivet set parallel to the rivet and then tilt it to set the rivet flush to the skin, is that one continuous motion as you're riveting?

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FWIW, thats how I did mine, a short burst with the back riveting set starting parallel to the rivet and quickly angling perpendicular to the skin. This was only to initially set the rivets, not to make them smooth. I used a giant back riveting plate that really seemed to help. You can read about it more here. I think the results speak for themself. Good luck!

RV7Factory said:

I think the results speak for themself. Good luck!

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I did tried "trailing edge riveting" with an practice kit and I would say that the quality with Van's method was good. But after seeing that picture, I think I'll follow your foot steps... Looks excellent for my eyes!

Trailing edge squeezer

I ground an old squeezer set to the angle of the wedge and used it for the final "squeeze." It worked out very well. You have to make sure it is aligned and not rotated in relation to the edge, but I found it easier than driving the rivets. I had pro-sealed my edges and am very happy with the results.

Bob Kelly

videobobk said:

I ground an old squeezer set to the angle of the wedge and used it for the final "squeeze." It worked out very well. You have to make sure it is aligned and not rotated in relation to the edge, but I found it easier than driving the rivets. I had pro-sealed my edges and am very happy with the results.

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Bob, I also ground an extra flat set to match the angle of the AEX wedge, but I used my modified set for the entire squeeze with a hand riveter, not just the final squeeze. I ProSealed my edges, and with the ground set, the trailing edge of my rudder came out very straight. I am very happy with the results.

Why don't they use the bent rudder skin like the one for the 8? I did the -7 method on the practice kit and in comparison the -8 rudder rules.

Pirkka said:

Looks excellent for my eyes!

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Thanks. I hope my original post didn't come across as gloating, all I was trying to say was that it is possible to get good results using the procedure outlined in the manual. Again, in my case, I think the 6' long back-riveting plate, and a little beginners luck, was the key to the good results. Now, if only everything else would turn out so well.