Now it's the leading edge!!!!

AAAHHH!!!

I was concentrating in one place while disaster happened in another. I put some u-bolts in my table this afternoon to roll the leading edge on my rudder. As I was rolling the whole rudder assembly moved a little and I did not realize the u-bolt at the top of the assembly was digging into the spar/skin. It left a nice dent in the spar and crack in the skin.

I have a email into Vans, but I think I know what the answer is going to be. I guess this was good practice for the next one that will eventually hang on my plane. Does anyone have any ideas on how to make this into a coffee table?







Pat

part of the process.

I bet they tell you that you could flatten the bent part and add rivets to either side. I am no expert but I don't think the crack would go past the rivet.

I did not like how my stiffeners went onto my rudder so I bought all new parts and started over, later another builder saw the old rudder skin and asked why I did not like the rivets. So ask around as well as talk to Vans. I think I have that skin around some place, RV-8, so if you want it it is yours. PM me if you are interested.

Keep at it, you are going to love the plane.

Cheers

Opps! Most do two trim tabs, I did two rudders. All in all, this is still fun! Like above, I would call the mother ship, but I do not see this being a concern, it is on the other side of the spar, no load here?

+1

Does this ever bring back bad memories. I did the exact same thing. I can still remember the horrible feeling when I saw the damaged skin and spar. This was as close as I have come to calling it quits. I'm glad I didn't.

I ordered parts for a new rudder, and the second time around it's as close to perfection as I'm likely to get. I'll call it an expensive lesson.

A hint on the 'U' bolts: Turn them into 'J' bolts so the skin / spar can't get pulled against the 'U' bolt shank when you roll the leading edge.

As I recall, I used hold-downs outside the ends of the rudder, so there was nothing for the skin to hit. Worked fine.

J bolts

SledDog said:

A hint on the 'U' bolts: Turn them into 'J' bolts so the skin / spar can't get pulled against the 'U' bolt shank when you roll the leading edge.

Click to expand...

+1
I actually purchased J-bolts and after the rudder, I ground the end of each J-bolt round. I noticed on the rudder the skin would not slide under. The rounded end works better but I still have to watch closely. I use a 1/2" pipe first to get the edge curve then a 3/4" pipe to get the rest of the curve. The 1/2" helps get the edge curved so the rivet holes are easier to align. I drilled holes through each pipe so a phillips screwdriver would work as a lever. A piece of plastic or old shower curtain under the part allows it to slide.

Pat, if this does become a coffee table, take some solace in knowing it won't be the most expensive coffee table out there

All - Appreciate the words of advice and encouragement. I slept on it last night and I think for peace of mind I will more than likely just build a new one. Its an opportunity to improve my skills/technique. Pat