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11-23-2009, 01:06 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Peachtree City, Georgia
Posts: 440
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I took the shipping boxes from Van, flipped them over, and put 2x4 legs on them. Pulling all the staples holding the 2x2s was a pain but it sure makes a great table.
I started out with just a folding banquet table with MDF on top - still use it.
John
__________________
John Goodman - 40572
First flight was 25 June, 2011
N711JG
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12-25-2020, 07:56 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Middletown, DE
Posts: 21
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updates?
Looks like search produced a very old thread.
I'm going to need to build my workbenches. Given I'm starting from scratch, what is the latest thinking? EAA benches with lip for clamping?
Something longer than EAA?
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12-25-2020, 08:18 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Just Minutes from KBVI!
Posts: 1,128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonkelm
Looks like search produced a very old thread.
I'm going to need to build my workbenches. Given I'm starting from scratch, what is the latest thinking? EAA benches with lip for clamping?
Something longer than EAA?
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I built two EAA benches but with overhanging lips for clamping. Then I placed the two tables a few inches apart, leveled them so they present a flat plane with a gap in the middle. The tables have a shelf between them on which I can install my DRDT-2 when needed for dimpling long skins, or remove it when I need the full length for something else. I built the wings across these two tables.
Now that I'm on the fuselage, I'm finding that I'm able to build most of the parts (up through section 28) on them, but I'm going to build a low-slung fuselage stand and/or a rotisserie with two engine mounts for the later part of the fuselage build.
I actually built two non-standard EAA tables as well (8 feet long x 2ft wide each) but ended up using them as workbenches as the more standard size ones are adequate for most of the RV-10 assembly.
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12-26-2020, 07:05 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Middletown, DE
Posts: 21
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Thanks! I see some folks have 8' tables so I wasn't sure of the EAA versus the 8'. I will be going with a DRDT-2 and read about doing what you have, using a shelf between two connected EAA tables. I may go this route unless others find a more optimal solution or see issues with this option.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1001001
I built two EAA benches but with overhanging lips for clamping. Then I placed the two tables a few inches apart, leveled them so they present a flat plane with a gap in the middle. The tables have a shelf between them on which I can install my DRDT-2 when needed for dimpling long skins, or remove it when I need the full length for something else. I built the wings across these two tables.
Now that I'm on the fuselage, I'm finding that I'm able to build most of the parts (up through section 28) on them, but I'm going to build a low-slung fuselage stand and/or a rotisserie with two engine mounts for the later part of the fuselage build.
I actually built two non-standard EAA tables as well (8 feet long x 2ft wide each) but ended up using them as workbenches as the more standard size ones are adequate for most of the RV-10 assembly.
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12-26-2020, 12:30 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Brentwood, CA
Posts: 720
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While I have two EAA workbenches (mounted on wheels) that I clamp together, either end to end, or side by side, what I build most all wings and control surfaces on are two sawhorses padded with moving blankets; i just lay the spar on the sawhorses and build on that.
Basically, don’t really need anything fancy or large, so I’d say just use whatever you have a build on.
__________________
Ron Gawer
- RV10, N762G, Build in progress.
- Several others that are now just great memories for me.
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12-26-2020, 05:41 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Middletown, DE
Posts: 21
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I have two sets of those legs (8). I was thinking of tearing down what I had and making to new dimensions. The legs are very sturdy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by carolsyracuse
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12-27-2020, 01:19 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Clarkston, MI
Posts: 405
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Flexibility is key
Whatever you choose to do, flexibility is key. You will need to reconfigure your work area as you go along. I always maintained at least one bench for assembly and parts prep. The balance of the work area was constantly reconfigured based on the needs of the part I was working on.
Here is a photo showing my basic bench(s) made of 2X4s, 2x6s to support the top. I had two of these. I added a sheet of 1/2" plywood (wafer board to be exact) ripped in half for two tables for the sacrificial layer, then outdoor carpet (the cheep stuff pre-cut from home depot) to provide a scratch resistant surface to work on. This was replaced as needed since it gets pretty beat up. The basic dimensions are 2' X 8' by 36" high. They are very strong and solid.
The work surface behind the table was my tool area and location for all of the small part organizer bins. It looks a mess, but was actually well organized so I could access almost any tool or part quickly.
[IMG]  [/IMG]
Beyond the tables, lots of storage space for both large and small components will be needed, As will saw horses, special fixtures for wings, stabilizer, etc. You will also need to make provision for priming components as well as possibly painting if you choose to do that as well.
__________________
Building started Oct 5th 2014, Flying since 1/16/2020
http://www.mykitlog.com/leok
RV Hotel, come by and visit if you're in town
Dues paid 2020
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12-27-2020, 04:54 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Middletown, DE
Posts: 21
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Very helpful, thank you very much!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by leok
Whatever you choose to do, flexibility is key. You will need to reconfigure your work area as you go along. I always maintained at least one bench for assembly and parts prep. The balance of the work area was constantly reconfigured based on the needs of the part I was working on.
Here is a photo showing my basic bench(s) made of 2X4s, 2x6s to support the top. I had two of these. I added a sheet of 1/2" plywood (wafer board to be exact) ripped in half for two tables for the sacrificial layer, then outdoor carpet (the cheep stuff pre-cut from home depot) to provide a scratch resistant surface to work on. This was replaced as needed since it gets pretty beat up. The basic dimensions are 2' X 8' by 36" high. They are very strong and solid.
The work surface behind the table was my tool area and location for all of the small part organizer bins. It looks a mess, but was actually well organized so I could access almost any tool or part quickly.
[IMG]  [/IMG]
Beyond the tables, lots of storage space for both large and small components will be needed, As will saw horses, special fixtures for wings, stabilizer, etc. You will also need to make provision for priming components as well as possibly painting if you choose to do that as well.
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