I am currently on page 17-03 (wing skins) of my RV12-iS build. I had to drill out a LP4-3 rivet between the skin and rib because the rivet didn’t set flush. I think the rib flange got pushed down while I was putting the rivet in and therefore the shop head was not fully in the hole. In the process of drilling it out, I have damaged the rib flange and looks like I have a small crack coming from the hole. I think the crack happened because I tried to flatten the flange back out by tapping with a mallet and it caused the hole to “stretch” and the crack to happen (lesson learned there!!!).
The bottom skin is fully riveted to the ribs and it is one of the ribs below the wing step and is therefore difficult to access. I had just flipped the wing over to start working on the top skins and got my first good glimpse at what the damage is. I was waiting to put a new rivet in until I got a good look at it after flipping over. I would like some advice on how to proceed. Here are the options as I see them:
Option 1: Replace the rib.
Option 2: Stop drill the crack and fill the hole with a new rivet.
Option 3: Option 2 and add a new L-bracket doubler (see pic)
I think Option 3 is the least bad option. I probably won't do anything until I talk to Vans, but since it's a long weekend, I wanted to reach out to this forum to see what you think. Thanks for your thoughts and experience.
The bottom skin is fully riveted to the ribs and it is one of the ribs below the wing step and is therefore difficult to access. I had just flipped the wing over to start working on the top skins and got my first good glimpse at what the damage is. I was waiting to put a new rivet in until I got a good look at it after flipping over. I would like some advice on how to proceed. Here are the options as I see them:
Option 1: Replace the rib.
Pros: New rib with no crack.
Cons: High risk to do more damage to the adjacent parts (skin, attach angle, front stub spar). I’m not even sure how I’d get to the front spar rivets since the skin is in the way. I could remove the shop head, but the mfg head would be nearly impossible to reach without removing the skin (gasp!)
Cons: High risk to do more damage to the adjacent parts (skin, attach angle, front stub spar). I’m not even sure how I’d get to the front spar rivets since the skin is in the way. I could remove the shop head, but the mfg head would be nearly impossible to reach without removing the skin (gasp!)
Option 2: Stop drill the crack and fill the hole with a new rivet.
Pros: Minimal repair workscope and minimal risk to damage other good areas.
Cons: Difficult to get a drill in there, and hard to drill in fillet of rib flange to web. Would need to get a good start to the hole so it won’t wander.
Not sure how much strength is left for that rivet if the flange is cracked. The opening between ribs is about 3.5 inches for drill access.
Cons: Difficult to get a drill in there, and hard to drill in fillet of rib flange to web. Would need to get a good start to the hole so it won’t wander.
Not sure how much strength is left for that rivet if the flange is cracked. The opening between ribs is about 3.5 inches for drill access.
Option 3: Option 2 and add a new L-bracket doubler (see pic)
Pros: Same as option 2 but also adds some additional strength to the joint.
Cons: Would need to also drill out the rivet to the attach angle (another access challenge).
Cons: Would need to also drill out the rivet to the attach angle (another access challenge).
I think Option 3 is the least bad option. I probably won't do anything until I talk to Vans, but since it's a long weekend, I wanted to reach out to this forum to see what you think. Thanks for your thoughts and experience.
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