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Old 04-13-2021, 06:48 PM
JDA_BTR JDA_BTR is offline
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 1,329

There are a lot of posts here about how to remove rivets and some practice on scrap is smart. If you are careful and use great technique you can go back in the 3/32 rivets just like the originals.

If you just drill them out then all sorts of weird results can come to pass. Since the OP didn't ask for rivet removal advice I'll leave that to the other hundreds of posts.
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Old 04-13-2021, 09:15 PM
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RV7A Flyer RV7A Flyer is offline
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: US
Posts: 2,459

I'd be wondering why it happened in the first place...will that bracket be misaligned later on for attaching to something else?
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Old 04-13-2021, 09:19 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,577
Default Just me

I think i relieved the skin slightly in this area. It is much easier to relieve the skin than the bracket. I would not unrivet bracket, I think it would be harder to get back on straight with good rivets. The skin rivets would probably be more forgiving of rework. JMO
John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

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Old 04-14-2021, 06:49 AM
Desert Rat Desert Rat is online now
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 609

First of all, I would NOT drill out that bracket. I agree that based on the picture, it looks like the culprit is that it was made slightly too long, or maybe mislocated slightly to the left, but assuming that's not going cause you and edge distance problem on down the road with whatever the other side of it attaches to (something worth checking now if you can) The easiest way to deal with this is to just relieve the skin and maybe the underlying rib flange if it's interfering as well? (This assumes that you can relieve the stuff other than the bracket without running into an edge distance problem).

What I would do;

1. Drill out a few of those -3 rivets in the edge of the skin so that you can flex the skin up off the underlying structure a bit.
2. Slide a thin stainless steel putty knife under the skin in the problem area to protect the underlying structure.
3. use a ruler, feeler gauge, #40 drill bit etc. to raise the skin edge up off your spar protecting putty knife.
3. Relieve the interference by sanding a nicely radiuses notch in the skin with emory cloth, sandpaper, jewelers file, whatever. Looks like it only needs a few thousandths, so I don't see the need to bust out the dremmel, rotary file, or any other potentially spar destroying power tool that you happen to have.
5. remove putty knife and other stuff.
4. squeeze new skin rivets.

Terry Shortt
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RV7 Empennage & Wing done
Fuselage in process

Last edited by Desert Rat : 04-14-2021 at 07:04 AM.
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