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Anodizing vs. Priming Parts

mdredmond

Well Known Member
I've got free access to anodizing services through an uncle. Is there any reason I shouldn't anodize rather than prime parts? Examples: stab attach brackets, ribs, etc...

I know anodizing has some effect on service life - I saw Van's comments and calculations re the anodized spar (though I don't understand how a .0015 thick anodized layer could cut service life in half!). It seems like if it's good enough for the spar it would be okay for other parts that flex even less. It offers the best corrosion protection and it looks cool too...

Any experts out there?

TIA!

-mdr
 
Matt, I am far from being an egg spurt... but I can tell you what I have learned.

Any effective corrosion measure places a protective barrier between the substrate and the environment. This can be done in many ways.

Anodizing (as I understand it) is a "conversion" method. It electrochemically converts the top surface of the substrate so that it will not easily continue the oxidation process. This is what leads to corrosion.

Priming is the same concept, except it is an application process. We apply the coating to the substrate to form an outer shell which inhibits the oxidation and corrosion process.

Cosmoline does the same thing for artillery, but it is slimy and heavy. This is not recommended for planes!

Oh, and in answer to your question... I would do it! The price is right!

Hope this helps!

:) CJ
 
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Anodizing is an excellent way to prevent corrosion. I have anodized aluminum parts that are nearly 20 years old, have been through hell and still look as good as the day I bought them. Sweet.

Some of the down side (and the effect on service life) is that anodizing is extremely brittle. An anodized part may have it's fatigue life reduced. Essentially, once the thin anodized layer develops cracks, you've formed a stress riser and the rest of the part will soon follow. Also, anodizing can change the dimensions of your holes, and things. In addition, it's not trivial to anodize 2024 aluminum because of the chemistry involved (it's easy to end up with a good looking part that will not have significant corrosion protection). There's a lot more to it than this...there are lots of advantages, disadvantages, tradeoffs, different types of anodizing, specifying the layer thickness etc etc etc etc.

This is definately a question for Vans. I'm sure he's been asked before and probably has an answer right off the top of his head. I'm gonna guess he's going to recommend you don't do it as it's more trouble than it's worth. I'd be very interested to hear what the master has to say and maybe educate myself a bit more about this.
 
mdredmond said:
I've got free access to anodizing services through an uncle. Is there any reason I shouldn't anodize rather than prime parts? Examples: stab attach brackets, ribs, etc...

I know anodizing has some effect on service life - I saw Van's comments and calculations re the anodized spar (though I don't understand how a .0015 thick anodized layer could cut service life in half!). It seems like if it's good enough for the spar it would be okay for other parts that flex even less. It offers the best corrosion protection and it looks cool too...

Any experts out there?

TIA!

-mdr
Matt,
The total fatigue life of a dynamically loaded structure is made up of two components. The first is the crack initiation life and then, once the crack has started, the crack growth life.
For aluminum, the greatest proportion of its life is in the crack initiation stage. A component doesn't have much of its total life remaining after the crack has started.
One of the reasons the anodized spar has reduced projected life is that the anodized layer is sooo brittle that cracks more easily start in that surface. In fact, if you shine a a bright light at the surface in the vicinity of each of the rivets set in the spar, you will see evidence of tiny microcracks radiating from each rivet head.
This is the reason for the admonition to deburr and smooth all edges on the structural pieces. We want to make sure that our planes spend their lives 'initiating' a crack, not growing one that already exists.
-mike
 
Anodize/prime...protect !

Well now you have opened the proverbial "can of worms"!
I will put in my two cents worth on this subject. I have spent the last 25 years of my life working in the airline heavy jet bussiness, and specialize in structures/corrosion protection. Here is a condensed crash course of the basics that apply to RV's and other similar metal aircraft.First, there are two basic catagories of metal used: Extrusion as is used for stringers,brackets,ect. and then there is Sheet stock for skins, ribs, and frames. Both categories utilize an alloy composition for strength..2024 for most skin, and 6061 for most extrusion. The skin material is almost allways refered to as ALCLAD..a simple trade name for an applied coating of PURE aluminum on each side of the sheet. The extrusions are NON-CLAD, therefore are the actual alloy exposed to the elements.So, having said that,pure aluminum is almost impervious to corrosion,therefore,a plane can be polished.Imagine ALCLAD as a piece of plywood..its all good until water hits the edge. Extrusions,having no built in corrosion protection need to be completely protected if you expect to keep corrosion away.Anodizing is a good process for any extrusion, but not really nessesary on sheet.The best protection for your skins, make sure the edges, and all the holes get primer in them before assembly...very tedious, but it will pay of later...Airlines and big manufactures have spent mega-bucks doing research, and you wont find a single aluminum part that isn't green,sheet or extrusion, unless its on a seat or galley where people dont want to see green.... just my opinion.

Bill Englert.
 
Thanks, guys, for your replies.

I'm going to talk to Van's about this, for sure. But if I understand this correctly, an extruded part (I wouldn't anodize skins) that is very smooth, deburred, holes drilled before anodizing, etc. should be able to be anodized -or- alodined and be okay?

Bill: You say 'green' - do you mean alodined (I've never used it - is it green)?

TIA!

-mdr
 
Green..AKA chromate primer

What I mean by "green" is the usuall color of chromate based primer... These primers can be enamel based (rattle can usually), or 2 part epoxy or urethane.The 2 part primers are almost indestructable by fluid or abrasion. Alodine is a chemical conversion used to prepare the surface for a final primer/finish. Alodine (an acid etch)usually leaves the metal a light gold color, and is nuetralized with water after application. Anodizing on the other hand is a chemical/electrical conversion requiring specialized facilities to apply...So by "green", I am refering to a primed finish...there are some great primers in other colors also, such as clear,yellow,white and grey. Green is just the old school normal color for aircraft aluminum primer. So many builders spend incredible amounts of time debating this issue...bottom line keep some primer around all the time..its easy to touch up when a part needs reworked,ect.For aircraft primary structure, I view anodizing as a parallel process to alodining (a prep step before paint)...there again,just my opinion.

Bill E.
 
Non-conductive

Also, one downside to anodizing is that the aluminum oxide layer grown on the surface to protect against corrosion also inhibits conductivity. Therefore you would not want to anodize the rivet holes after you drilled and sized them.
 
RV8RIVETER said:
Also, one downside to anodizing is that the aluminum oxide layer grown on the surface to protect against corrosion also inhibits conductivity. Therefore you would not want to anodize the rivet holes after you drilled and sized them.

Why is that? Just curious.
 
Couldn't that lead to corrosion between the rivet and part? Basically Conductor (rivet), insulator (Anodized layer), Conductor (part) would setup up basically a capacitor, whose electrical action would induce corrosion between the rivet and part.
 
osxuser said:
Couldn't that lead to corrosion between the rivet and part? Basically Conductor (rivet), insulator (Anodized layer), Conductor (part) would setup up basically a capacitor, whose electrical action would induce corrosion between the rivet and part.

They have to be touching. To get this sort of corrosion, you have to have different potentials, a way for current to flow, and a place for the anode's ion's to go (like saltwater, acid, etc..). If they aren't touching, you remove the current path and totally eleminate the problem.
 
They have to be touching. To get this sort of corrosion, you have to have different potentials, a way for current to flow, and a place for the anode's ion's to go (like saltwater, acid, etc..). If they aren't touching, you remove the current path and totally eleminate the problem.

That was always my understanding - that galvanic corrosion required an electrical connection. If it's not corroding when the rivet/part touch, it's certainly not going to if they're insulated from each other - which is why I asked 'why' - just making sure I'm not missing something here.
 
mdredmond said:
That was always my understanding - that galvanic corrosion required an electrical connection. If it's not corroding when the rivet/part touch, it's certainly not going to if they're insulated from each other - which is why I asked 'why' - just making sure I'm not missing something here.

I think he was commenting that you'll change the dimension of the holes...i.e. they'll get smaller. What's interesting is that I've heard anodizing can actually make parts SMALLER sometimes. I have no idea how that happens or why....maybe someone can explain that, or tell me that it's an old wives tale.
 
jcoloccia said:
I think he was commenting that you'll change the dimension of the holes...i.e. they'll get smaller. What's interesting is that I've heard anodizing can actually make parts SMALLER sometimes. I have no idea how that happens or why....maybe someone can explain that, or tell me that it's an old wives tale.

Ah. My understanding is that the anodized layer is about .001" thick and the process makes parts .0005" larger (half of the layer grows into the surface and half grows out). Holes, then, would become .001" smaller in diameter. I don't know if this is an issue or not.
 
Aluminum or Aluminum OXIDE corrosion resistent??

I could surely be mistaken but I always understood that pure aluminum will quickly oxidize ("rust"?) when exposed to air but the aluminum oxide created on the surface is what is extremely corrosion resistent. It is only when we break that "layer" of aluminum oxide (drilling, scratches, etc.) that we expose the underlying metal to corrosion potential.
 
Structures engineer

AFulmer said:
I could surely be mistaken but I always understood that pure aluminum will quickly oxidize ("rust"?) when exposed to air but the aluminum oxide created on the surface is what is extremely corrosion resistant. It is only when we break that "layer" of aluminum oxide (drilling, scratches, etc.) that we expose the underlying metal to corrosion potential.
Some good replies, but I think we need to define, alodine, anodized and primers a little.

Here is an article related to alodine and anodize and RV spars:
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list/hovan/tips/AlAnDef.html

As was mentioned most of the "sheet" on our planes are clad. PURE aluminum is very soft and PURE means it does not have alloying. Any PURE metal tends to resist corrosion. Alloys will corrode. Aluminum like 2024 has other elements like copper, zinc and magnesium in it as well as Aluminum (90%-94.7%). As you know "entropy" means things tend to go back to their natural state, where pure metals tend not decay or corrode. So the PURE aluminum clad is a great layer of corrosion resistant material.

Really Apples and Oranges, Anodize and Prime.

Also GREEN as a standard color is long gone. Chromate is also all but gone as the standard for primers. You can get primer in any color, grey, yellow, white to name a few. Most "chromate" primer is gone for toxic EPA reasons. It did make a good primer because it was some what sacrificial. It worked great but there are other epoxies that are superior which seal the material and chemical bond making corrosion unlikely as long as the layer of primer is not compromised (scratched off).

You would not "HARD" anodize large parts and sheet. The normal etch, alodine and prime is all you need.

As far as anodizing causing cracks and fatigue reduction, one of the biggest problems is Hydrogen Embrittlement. If the process is not done properly you can cause this condition, and it will indeed cause fatigue problems and actually lead to corrosion.


I can see alodine clad parts as the only process, but cost and time get in the way. Why? The clad is good enough. That is the argument for no prime of the clad parts. As was mentioned the extruded angles are not clad and need to be fully protected with primer, not just alodine. Alodine is a chemical conversion that "stains" the metal with a gold tint typically but can be clear or other colors. It leaves a "film" but it is not durable on its own. It does not make the surface hard. This is a passivisation process, making the material "passive" in relation to another material. It basically is a layer to resist oxidization. It makes a very "tacky" surface for primer to attach to. It is usually a step prior to priming, not as a final finish on its own. It could be used on its own, but it is not really meant to be a final finish.


Hard Anodize is a electrochemical process (electrical current is used) and adds material (not really but the part grows). The surface is hard and because it is porous it can be colored. Material is not added, aluminum oxide is "grown out" of the surface during anodizing, and then becomes aluminum hydrate that is extremely hard. Parts will become dimensionally larger after the process, so "material is added". The real advantage is looks and hard wear surface, since aluminum is soft. This is great for consumer products and "dress up items", but practically on aerospace structure its use is limited. Its nice looking but not use this widely on primary aircraft structure.

Van does anodize the spars. What type of anodize not sure there is type I, II and III. Type III is the hard kind, which is not used I believe. The type II is the thinner coating. If I had a choice I would rather have the aluminum, Scotch-Bite, etched, alodine and epoxy primed, but that is the way it comes. My RV-6 I built the spars, but I think all RV's including my RV-7 come pre-built.

It does not mean it will necessarily have lower fatigue life if the process was done properly. The stress levels and cycles are low, so it is not an issue IMHO. According to the 1992 article referenced above Van says the fatigue life is 1/2 when anodized, but still acceptable.

There are fasteners on large aircraft made of titanium and aluminum collars. The aluminum collars are anodize bright pretty colors. The hard coating (type III) gives it durability against the tools used during installation. You can imagine aluminum nuts installed with a steel tool may be subject to abuse, so the hard layer is goodness here.

G
 
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I found an RV-10 builder that is anodizing a lot of his parts. Link here.

Sure looks cool, though it'll all be covered up. This is exactly what I was asking about - a type 2 anodizing process on ribs, etc...

medium
 
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Just reminder

To clarify. Since alot of builder use the main fuselage longeron as a grounding point, I just want to drop a reminder that completely anodizing (insulating) such parts would inhibit good conductivity.
 
mlw450802 said:
One of the reasons the anodized spar has reduced projected life is that the anodized layer is sooo brittle that cracks more easily start in that surface. In fact, if you shine a a bright light at the surface in the vicinity of each of the rivets set in the spar, you will see evidence of tiny microcracks radiating from each rivet head.

When I set the rivets in these areas the damage to the anodizing was quite obvious with the naked eye. I was concerned but another local builder told me that it was normal.

However having seen it, I would think very carefully about applying this treatment to other parts on the airframe, particularly dimpled 3/32 rivet holes. Just drilling holes and rubbing the occasional cleco against the anodised spar is not a very pleasant experience. You can tell the coating is very brittle.

Besides, what good will come out of it? Clean, prime (if you wish) and rivet it together. It will last a long time and as we have pointed out the spar is life limited already.
 
Cheaper and easier acid etch and alodine

If you would like to make the acid etch and alodine process much easier, you can create dip tanks to dip your parts in instead of brushing on Alumiprep and alodine. I got (3) 55 gal tubs with lids at Sam's, 10 lbs Iridite 14-2 from Gallade Chemical (~$200), and 10gal 75% phosphoric acid solution ($100) from a local Atlanta chemical company. To make the alodine solution, you mix the iridite powder/flakes with water. Add the 75% phosphoric acid to water to get a 15-20% concentration. I can just dip parts in the acid, rinse in water, dip in alodine and then rinse in water. Very easy and very fast. It is exactly the same as what Delta Airlines uses in their maintenance hangar at the Atlanta airport (except I use a much weaker acid solution!). I dipped my wing ribs and rear spar there.

Bill Swatling
RV-7 - working on the wings | Fuselage kit in the garage
...just dipped the aileron attach brackets last night.
 
alodine

Yes, but.... alodine is relatively soft and will wash off with solvent... quite a different beast from the anodizing of the original post...

Usually, a coat of paint is applied after alodine for protection... often clear lacquer for commercial applications.

gil in Tucson
 
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