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  #11  
Old 05-04-2021, 07:20 AM
circuitbreaker8747 circuitbreaker8747 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Atlanta Georgia
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Its the pieces with the big holes in it correct? That is what I was thinking but not sure. Thank you.
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  #12  
Old 05-04-2021, 07:31 AM
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bjdecker bjdecker is offline
 
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Location: Georgetown, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by circuitbreaker8747 View Post
Its the pieces with the big holes in it correct? That is what I was thinking but not sure. Thank you.
Correct; three sections/pieces.
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  #13  
Old 05-04-2021, 07:53 AM
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catmandu catmandu is offline
 
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JMHO, if you don't know any better, a non-stiffened tip-up canopy is not all that bad. I was five years into ownership before I knew I had a 'flawed' (in another's words) canopy. I decided not to install the kit.
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  #14  
Old 05-04-2021, 11:25 AM
gasman gasman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
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Originally Posted by dmat View Post
Hi gents,

I just acquired a RV6 tip-up but the canopy doesnt have stiffeners and it flops around more than I would like.

1) does anyone make a retrofit kit?
2) I know vans sells the stiffener but I would rather not have to drill and rivet as the paint is in good shape. Can I use structural grade adhesive to bond vans stiffeners to the canopy frame? Something like Hernon FusionBond.

Thanks,
D
One thing you could try is to install a weaker strut on the right side, and a firmer one on the left. If you do this, you must only open and close the canopy from the (left) firm side. A used strut works great on the right.

A side benefit is only needing to replace the left strut when it gets weak and move the weak one to the right side.

Never leave the canopy open unattended.
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  #15  
Old 05-04-2021, 11:43 AM
Ralph Inkster Ralph Inkster is offline
 
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One good strut & one weaker one, not a good idea IMO.
Both struts will eventually wear, but not evenly going forward. When the stronger of the two finally gives out, the other one will be so degraded it wouldn't offer any resistance and the canopy will come down with a crash, bad results for plexi, fingers & possibly heads.
In the auto industry we were advised to never to sell one lift strut at a time.
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Last edited by Ralph Inkster : 05-04-2021 at 11:46 AM.
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  #16  
Old 05-04-2021, 03:27 PM
dmat dmat is offline
 
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My 6a has Fiberglass stiffeners but the 6 I just purchased doesn’t have stiffeners at all and you can feel the difference and I can see cracks in places.

Do the stiffeners get riveted through the outside skin or just the dashboard/glare shield skin?

D
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Last edited by dmat : 05-04-2021 at 08:54 PM.
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  #17  
Old 05-04-2021, 09:27 PM
gasman gasman is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph Inkster View Post
One good strut & one weaker one, not a good idea IMO.
Both struts will eventually wear, but not evenly going forward. When the stronger of the two finally gives out, the other one will be so degraded it wouldn't offer any resistance and the canopy will come down with a crash, bad results for plexi, fingers & possibly heads.
In the auto industry we were advised to never to sell one lift strut at a time.
You should never run a strut to failure. Each time you lift the canopy, you are testing the strut. Each time you reach up and pull the canopy down, you are testing the strut. When the time comes that the canopy is not firmly held in place, you replace the left strut with new, and move the left to the right..... If you want new on the right, just buy a weaker one.

I have been doing extatically as I described in the above post for the last three strut replacements without any safety issues. The reason it works is because you are only pulling down from one side, and with a strong strut on the far side, the canopy will want to twist until you can overcome the holding power of the far strut....... This is not the same as closing the hatch on your SUV where you pull from the center and pay little attention to the condition of the struts until they finally give up. In that case, you should NEVER replace only one strut.
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  #18  
Old 05-05-2021, 11:03 AM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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Location: Schaumburg, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmat View Post
My 6a has Fiberglass stiffeners but the 6 I just purchased doesn’t have stiffeners at all and you can feel the difference and I can see cracks in places.

Do the stiffeners get riveted through the outside skin or just the dashboard/glare shield skin?

D
All are on the Tipper skin and many are outside of the windshield area, if I remember correctly. Some will also be under the fibergless transition work, though you can probably still get a lot of the benefits if those are left un-rivetted.

larry
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  #19  
Old 05-05-2021, 01:36 PM
gasman gasman is offline
 
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Installing this stiffener in a completed aircraft would be a good contender for a quality adhesive.
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  #20  
Old 05-05-2021, 03:19 PM
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Snowflake Snowflake is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catmandu View Post
JMHO, if you don't know any better, a non-stiffened tip-up canopy is not all that bad. I was five years into ownership before I knew I had a 'flawed' (in another's words) canopy. I decided not to install the kit.
FWIW, my non-stiffened tip-up was 18 years old when the (poorly) factory-welded brackets where the front rib section connects to the pivot arms failed on both sides. It seems pretty clear to me that the flexing over the years caused it, although the poor weld didn't help... It it had barely melted into the substrate, and essentially peeled apart. It wouldn't come apart in flight due to everything else around it, but you could see the gap at the front corners of the canopy while in the air.
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