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Work Bench

go_flyer

Member
I am about to order a kit and want to build a work bench before the kit arrives. Can anyone tell me what size is optimal? Is there a set of plans for a nice bench?

You can answer here or send info to me at [email protected].

Thanks.
 
bullojm1 said:
I've got two of these workbenches and they work great. My only suggestion is to build a 2" overhang around the workbench to allow you to easily clamp things down.


And dont precut all your wood ahead of time acording to the plans. There are errors in the dimentions. IIRC, the size of the lower shelf is incorrect.
 
Overhang

I didn't put an overhang on the end and made them so they could be bolted together. Makes for either two short WB's or one long one for wings and such. The EAA size is really all you need. YMMV

Bob Kelly
 
I have one of the EAA tables and I also built a 4x8 table. The big table is the one I use for almost everything. Some would think it is to big but I am tall and have plenty of shop space so it works well for me. I have my DRDT-2 mounted on the EAA table and it works good for that.

My recommendation though is if you have plenty of shop space build a large table. It has worked great!

table.jpg
 
2 for 1

Funny story about our awesome EAA work benches.My partner and I did our materials list and went to the HomeDepot and made the purchace.We got back to the airplane factory and cut it all down to specs then proceeded to assemble.About an hour and a half later a very fine work bench was materializing but it seemed odd that there was still so much lumber left and that we were allmost done with the bench.Weird.We went back over the EAA plans to see if we missed something...but ,no it was all correct.Nowhere in the plans did it say we were building TWO benches but in fact that is what we have now.We think the guy who wrote the plans tricked us into building two knowing that was really what every shop actually needs.LOL.No kidding.So I get to keep one and my partner keeps the other,perfect!.BTW..we sunk a backplate near center on one ,level with the masonite we opted to finish the tops with for more future backriveting.Allso, we added two inches of height to both benches so the backaches might not be so bad...seems to work well.Good luck.
 
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Harland E. [n.m. u.s.a.] said:
Nowhere in the plans did it say we were building TWO benches but in fact that is what we have now.We think the guy who wrote the plans tricked us into building two knowing that was really what every shop actually needs.
I built one from the plans a few years ago, and I noticed that on the diagram it says, "BILL OF MATERIALS (to build 2 tables)"

That little note certainly doesn't stand out very well, does it? I only noticed it was I was standing in the aisle at the hardware store. :)
 
I built two Chapter 1000 tables with a little difference. My tables are 36" high, 36" deep, and 72" long. I have 1.5" overhang all around for clamping. I made my own BOM after deciding to make a larger table and ended up having enough wood left over to build a miniature version for my belt sander and bench grinder. It is 36" high, 18" deep and 36" long.

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dang, i cut all my plywood today and didnt make an overhang for clamping.. :(

Just narrow the frame up a couple inches so you have whatever overhang you want.
As long as it isn't to narrow and tips over easy.
Todd Crowl
Northwest OH
 
Legs

On the bottom of the legs I put bolts to be able to ajust the tables to the same height. Also my garage floor is not perfect so the adjustment is good.
 
I build a couple of these.

And then I put a 3/4 inch of particle board on top with glued boards underneath to keep them from sliding around. This work well for clamping on the sides as well as drilling through (you will do a lot of that). If the top gets to crappy then just throw another one on.

Kent
 
And then I put a 3/4 inch of particle board on top with glued boards underneath to keep them from sliding around. This work well for clamping on the sides as well as drilling through (you will do a lot of that). If the top gets to crappy then just throw another one on.

Kent

I'l second that. I had my tech counsellor visiting on friday and he said he use only a 3 by 3 foot discartable and loose particle board when he saw all the holes in one of my tables. Funny I didn't think of it, because I used my jig covered with a 200mm wide particle board along the length needed when aligning the HS spars and drilling/clecoing for that purpose only.
 
Look for a damaged solid core door blank at your home repair center. A 30" X 80" X 1 1/2 or 1 3/4 thick. A LOT CHEAPER than plywood and they lay flat. Good thickness for clamping. This can be used on saw horses because they are so heavy. This is my walk around work bench.

My other work bench was made from old kitchen base cabinets that I purchased for $30.00 and then placed two solid core doors on them, end to end. The work top is 30" deep and 13 feet 4" long. A row of 4 drawers 4" tall and 20" wide are along the top. Then two rows of drawers 9" deep and 20" wide. What used to be the sink area has two doors 16" wide that I keep the air hose reel in and the regulator.

Total cost for this work bench was less than $80.00 and took less than 30 minutes to set up.
 
A hardboard surface...

What did you use for a work surface on your bench?

I used 3/4 plywood, and added a layer of 1/8 hardboard on top - just nailed on.

After a while, I removed the hardboard layer with all of it's holes, and replaced it with a new piece. The cheap hardboard gives a nice smooth surface, and is easy to replace.

gil A
 
My benches


I built three of those, but somewhat modified. They are 2'x5', with a two inch overhang all around, so that I can clamp things. They are on casters, so that I can easily butt two benches end to end or side to side. And they can be leveled, and they come apart for storage. Here's the basic idea:
shopbenchkp6.jpg


Go to your wood store and buy a 4'x8' sheet of 3/4" plywood, fine on one side, cheap on the other. Pay them to make two cuts. The first is down the middle, leaving you two 2'x8' pieces. The second is at right angles and 5' from one end. This leaves you two bench tops and two scraps just the right width for shelving. Having the store do the cut makes it a lot easier for one person to get the pieces home. And buy lots of two by fours - avoid green wood, it will try to warp later.

You make the top frame first, with two long pieces and many cross pieces, on edge. Then attach the benchtop to the frame with glue and countersunk screws. Next the verticals. I attached each vertical with two carriage bolts at each end, so that in theory I can pancake the whole thing later for transport or storage. The wheels are bolted on, with slightly long bolts, so that I can level the bench by adding washers between the caster frame and the wood. I allowed for 6 casters but four turned out to be enough.

Then you finish to suit.
shopbench2fh9.jpg

This second picture shows the bench with kraft paper taped to the top, and some shelving added. The shelf just rests on 1'x1' pieces carriage bolted to the uprights. I deliberatly made slightly different shelving for each bench, so that any odd-sized thing I bought later would fit *somewhere*. And I put a power bar on each bench, so that whenever I wanted an off switch, there would be one nearby.

I bought locking casters, which sounded like a good idea, but hasn't mattered.
 
Snip from my web page.

"I wanted to built 2 nice work benches, so I spoke with one of my buds. Turns out he is a wood working guru. I only was able to build one in a day. The other one will come soon. The bench is made out of 2 X 4s, 1/2 inch plywood and 1/2 in particle board. The top is 7 ft long by 3 ft wide and is composed of 1/2 inch plywood screwed to the frame, then a 1/2 inch particle board on top of the plywood that can be easily replaced after I drill holes on it. The bench is 42 inches high and it sits on top of wheels that can be locked in place. There is a lip around the work bench for clamps. I also flush mounted a back riveting plate on the bench."

The only thing I would change about the bench is the orientation of the back riveting plate. I would have it going up and down vice left to right. I used a door on top of the bench when building my ailerons and flaps. Worked very well.

FP24062007A00040.jpg


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FP24062007A00044.jpg
 
What's wrong with a door and sawhorses??

I have permanent benches at each end of the shop but the bench that I did most of my building on was a fibercore door on sawhorses. Portable and I threw the door away (was not pretty when building finished). Good excuse for some of those real nice folding sawhorses.

I started building first in a different house on the sunporch and the door/sawhorse method allowed me to make the bench disappear when not in use (called keeping the spouse happy). Continued with it even when I moved and had a shop.
 
Ta-Da!

I love how they turned out. I have never really made anything useful from scratch before until now. I did use some ideas from the board and modified them with bolts so that they are collapsible in 3 parts (table, legs, shelf). I also exchanged the plywood with 5/8" MDF. Glad I chose the MDF even though it seems pretty pricey (Home depot has a sale on right now. Every time you spend over $50 - you get $10 bucks off. So why not bite the bullet). These suckers are heavy!

DSCF0001-2.jpg
 
Backrivet plate

Adam,

If you put a backrivet plate sunk into the benchtop, it is useful to draw some lines that mark the edges of the plate (i.e., so you can tell where the plate is when you have your HS sitting on top of it ready to rivet) so that you don't end up riveting OFF the backplate. You probably know how I know this is a good idea....

greg
 
Adam,

If you put a backrivet plate sunk into the benchtop, it is useful to draw some lines that mark the edges of the plate (i.e., so you can tell where the plate is when you have your HS sitting on top of it ready to rivet) so that you don't end up riveting OFF the backplate. You probably know how I know this is a good idea....

greg

Thanks Greg,

I will definitely look into that once I find up a nice slab. I guess mounting it vertically is the way to go.
 
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