Vettermans trombone exhaust has arrived!! Any tips would be helpful!

[N82VM]

Thank you Ron. I’m planning the M1B with stock sump, so I guess that answers my question.

[riseric]

FWIW, I have the Trombone on a M1S with a Superior Cold Sump.
Fits perfectly. Follow the instructions, easy to install and no issues.

[rongawer]

Originally Posted by Jpm757

Use mouse milk on all the slip joints before installation, and whenever you have the cowlings off.

Let's be honest, that stuff is great for loosening joints, but at exhaust temps - it burns off in a few hours of operation.

For this application, nickel based anti-seize works well and will last longer, or use Loctite 299175 which also has a corrosion inhibitor good for 2400ºF.

[KiloFoxtrot]

Originally Posted by riseric

FWIW, I have the Trombone on a M1S with a Superior Cold Sump.
Fits perfectly. Follow the instructions, easy to install and no issues.

RISERIC
I have the same engine and exhaust and I would like to see how you installed the hanger brackets for the exhaust.

Thanks
Ken

[Simon Hitchen]

Keep the muff joints loose ish. I over tightened and over 100 hours or so the weldment into the muff broke and left it hanging. Keep it moveable and lubricated

[riseric]

Originally Posted by KiloFoxtrot

RISERIC
I have the same engine and exhaust and I would like to see how you installed the hanger brackets for the exhaust.

Ken, here's what I have on hand.
I will be at the airport later today and can take more photos for you if needed.

Originally Posted by Simon Hitchen

Keep the muff joints loose ish. I over tightened and over 100 hours or so the weldment into the muff broke and left it hanging. Keep it moveable and lubricated

Absolutely, it's part of the installation instruction to keep lightly clamped.
And as Ron suggested above, use nickel anti-seize in the joints.

[wawrzynskivp]

It's been mentioned before, but a rehash is always good:

The tubing that form the hanging support for the ends of the tubes is prone to slipping.

In my mind a rolled bead at each end of that tubing would be the perfect solution so that the hose clamp could be mounted just above the roll and lock everything in place.

I didn't have that tool and used a very slight flare instead, works great. Others have had success with knurling or just roughing up the surface with a stone to give it some tooth.

[rmarshall234]

I've never liked that design, they always seem to slip or break and it looks like something cobbled together at the last minute with scraps that were laying on the shop floor. No way to treat a beautiful $2K exhaust system IMHO.

Not an RV, but here's what I'm using on my biplane build. $35 each from one of the auto hotrod shops.

[Draker]

Originally Posted by rongawer

Let's be honest, that stuff is great for loosening joints, but at exhaust temps - it burns off in a few hours of operation.

For this application, nickel based anti-seize works well and will last longer, or use Loctite 299175 which also has a corrosion inhibitor good for 2400ºF.

Yea, a local A&P who had a look at my project also recommended anti-seize on the slip joints. I assume you need to pull the exhaust completely to apply it, as you need to move the pipes to work the material into the joint.