Boot Cowl blues

Freemasm · #1 10-29-2020, 07:47 AM

Location = Boot cowl to fuse side skin joint

Having a b*&%! of a time getting the fuse skin to "lay down" after installing the doubler for the boot cowl. Any knowledge that can be shared would be appreciated.

Looking forward. What methods/materials did you use to WX proof the boot cowl along the top of the firewall and Instrument panel bulkhead? A bunch of expensive avionics/electronics will be underneath, obviously.

Much thanks.

Views looking (mostly) down.

F1 Rocket · #2 10-29-2020, 12:15 PM

The boot cowl is certainly a tricky piece of sheet metal to form. I used a sheet metal shrinker in a few strategic places which allowed to conform nicely. If you go to www.aero-kids.com there are some photos of when I did mine.

280FX · #3 10-30-2020, 05:11 PM

Using a roller is the best way to go from what I have seen. If you can find someone with a 48” roller that knows how to roll sheet metal would be the ticket.

scsmith · #4 10-30-2020, 07:08 PM

What is a boot cowl?

F1 Rocket · #5 10-31-2020, 06:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scsmith

What is a boot cowl?

The upper sheetmetal between the windshield and cowl. It needs to be rolled a bit. Mine needed to be shrunk a bit in a few places as well.

calpilot · #6 10-31-2020, 07:57 PM

I took my boot cowl to my local heating and air conditioning shop, they rolled the sides and edges, great fit. Also, I located some 100 degree stainless "pull" rivets that has a higher shear strength than driven rivets. I then filed the center holes of the pull rivets with glazing compound, and after primer and paint, it looks great!!! Trying to crawl under the dash and get a bucking bar on the rivets with wiring, venting, and ^^%%$@*%^% in the way, I am really glad to use the blind rivets!

Regards,

GAry

Freemasm · #7 11-02-2020, 07:50 AM

Thanks for the replies. Making the boot cowl is pretty easy. My issues was the side skin at the boot cowl joint. Got a "quick build" fuse and the skin laid down OK until I installed the BC doubler. I've improvised, made a tool, etc. and the skin edge doesn't quite lay down all the way. Can't edge roll it without semi-major de-riveting. I'm sure others have lived through this.

Did any of you previous builders use any weather stripping along the top of the panel and firewall bulkheads?

Thanks.

MS1095 · #8 02-05-2021, 08:19 PM

How is the boot cowl doubler (attach strip) attached to the upper longeron? I am thinking of doing it this way on my 4 so I have a nice flush seam and not the overlap.

F1R · #9 02-06-2021, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Freemasm

Thanks for the replies. Making the boot cowl is pretty easy. My issues was the side skin at the boot cowl joint. Got a "quick build" fuse and the skin laid down OK until I installed the BC doubler. I've improvised, made a tool, etc. and the skin edge doesn't quite lay down all the way. Can't edge roll it without semi-major de-riveting. I'm sure others have lived through this.

Did any of you previous builders use any weather stripping along the top of the panel and firewall bulkheads?

Thanks.

Is your machine a speed slope windscreen or the bubble nose? A good percentage of the speed slope windscreen rockets get nut plates and removable skins from the firewall back to the front edge of the windscreen. Counter sunk flush head screws from the outside. Is it water tight? not perfectly, but you can make a very effective and thin seal every time you close it by making a tube seal of renfrew tape or electrical tape. It goes under the skins and on top of the nut plate flange before you set the skins back in place.
One time use and very replaceable.

F1 Rocket · #10 02-06-2021, 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F1R

Is your machine a speed slope windscreen or the bubble nose? A good percentage of the speed slope windscreen rockets get nut plates and removable skins from the firewall back to the front edge of the windscreen. Counter sunk flush head screws from the outside. Is it water tight? not perfectly, but you can make a very effective and thin seal every time you close it by making a tube seal of renfrew tape or electrical tape. It goes under the skins and on top of the nut plate flange before you set the skins back in place.
One time use and very replaceable.

Any photos available of this tube seal from tape method?